I want a no-frills rear air-bag system.

[CentralCoaster]

I want to put air bags on the back of my 69 C10 shortbed. The front is lower because of the late model front end, and I want to drop the currently stock rear end about 3-4 inches to be level with it. I don't want to lose my load carrying capacity though, so I figure airbags is a good choice in place of the coils that I can air up when needed, plus I've heard they ride like a Cadillac.

I've looked around at the different bag vendors, but what they sell is way beyond what I want. I simply want to route an air line to the fender where I can adjust the ride height with an air compressor, since I probably won't be adjusting it often.


What are some high quality bags that will get me what I want?

[LockDoc]

This thread might help.....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...highlight=bags

LockDoc

[LockDoc]

Here's another one:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...highlight=bags

LockDoc

[IvelDesigns]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Here's another one:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...highlight=bags

LockDoc

with this setup, for the front, can you cut the cup down to get it even lower? If so, what is the max that you could cut it?

i saw this mentioned in another thread, but the pics in that FAQ helped me to understand exactly what the "cup" was.

thx for the link!

[IvelDesigns]

also, is it a requirement to have an on board tank and compressor? I understand why you would want one, but to get things started, i would be fine with a single air chuck at the front, and a single air chuck at the back.

I assume you would want to keep the rears together, and the fronts together, but never both the front and rears. my assumption is that to get a level ride, different pressure will be needed in the front compared to the back.

With bags, is there a recomended shock relocation kit for the rear and one for the back?

[CochinoFilipino]

You don't need anonboard compressor or tank. But you probably at least want seperate valves for each bag. If you're sharing air from side to side and you go around a corner with a load, it's going to squeaze air from one side to the other. This can be controlled to some degree with a sway bar but I think seperate valves would be better.

[IvelDesigns]

How do you ensure even pressure in each bag then? I suppose a quality gauge for each bag would do the trick.

[Shane]

go here www.*****************

price yourself:
2 firestone 2,500 lb bags
aprox. 25 feet of tubing
2 push-lock fittings (preferably 90 degree swivels)
2 gages
2 shrader valves.

Not sure if they have the schrader valves there, but I picked up two at O'Reilly's a month or so back for something like $3-$4 each.

that should be everything you need to do this & still b fairly inexpensive to boot, other than a few bolts, washers and nuts that you can pick up at Tractor Supply, Lowes, etc.

[CochinoFilipino]

Originally Posted by IvelDesigns

How do you ensure even pressure in each bag then? I suppose a quality gauge for each bag would do the trick.

You don't necessarily want even pressure. You want an even ride, though the PSI should be close. A plus for the bags on seperate valves is that you can add PSI to one side to compensate for an uneven load. Perfect set-up for the skinny guy who likes fat chicks (or men, don't want to discriminate).

[IvelDesigns]

Shane, thanks for the info.

What about an econo setup for the front? Same thing, but a bigger lbs bags?

I was actually thinking of putting all of the gauges and shrader valves under the hood mounted to a nice looking box or something. Do you see any problems running lines clear back the rear?

[Shane]

you won't be able to do the front as an inexpensive as the back <edit>, due to the brackets and cups that are needed ... not to mention the drop spindles

by the way on the rear ... if you are gonna do the rear, you need to look into an adjustable track bar, c notch, and shock relocators.

[IvelDesigns]

Originally Posted by Shane

you won't be able to do the front as an inexpensive as the front, due to the brackets and cups that are needed ... not to mention the drop spindles

sure. you're talkin about this kit right? http://www.*****************/67-87Ful...rtBrackets.php

and drop spindles were already on the list.

[CentralCoaster]

Thanks, I'll give them a call as soon as I'm not broke again. How low can you generally drop it before C-notches are recommended?

I'm a skinny guy, and no, I don't like fat men.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by CentralCoaster

Thanks, I'll give them a call as soon as I'm not broke again. How low can you generally drop it before C-notches are recommended?

I'm a skinny guy, and no, I don't like fat men.

I did a flip kit on my leaf truck. Gave me about 6" of drop- it's about 1/4" from the bumpstops. Cutting them out would gain another couple inches, depending on your shocks/springs you may not hit.

So, I say around 5-6" to maintain your ride quality. If you dont mind the rear end hitting, 6-7".

-Chris