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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Maryville Mo
Posts: 122
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What to do?
Now that I have a new daily driver, I am ready to start making some improvments on the old 72. Here is where I stand. The body is all in all pretty straight. It only has some minor rust over the rear fenders. I had the cab corners replaced in the spring after some @ss hole rear ended me. While his insurance was paying to get the bed straighted and back of cab painted, all I had to pay was $160 for both corners.
![]() Anyhow, the body and interior are good. What I really need some ideas about is what I can do with my engine. It is an all original 350, that to the best of my knowledge has never been rebuilt. What are some inexpensive things that I can do to improve the performance. I finally have time to work on it now that I don't have to worry about getting back together by Monday. ![]() Thanks for the help.
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72 Cheyenne 1/2T LWB original ochre/white 09 Silverado ECSB 76 International ScoutII |
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#2 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A.
Posts: 15,320
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If the engine runs good now (no smoke, funny noises....) I'd leave ot alone. Maybe upgrade the exhaust.
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#3 |
67-72 Addict!
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The TAX State!
Posts: 7,857
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A new intake and carb would be easy to do. Maybe a good tune up also. How about headers and mufflers. These are unbolt and rebolt jobs for the most part.
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 2,410
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Do a compression test and find out how much those old cylinders are pushing. I'd recommend valve seal replacement at least every five years. If you get blue smoke puffing out the exhaust on startup then your engine is due. I would also install HEI distributor if its not there already.
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1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Shelbyville, KY
Posts: 3,269
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From a pure stock, I would upgrade in the following order----HEI (usually availabe from a later model (75-6-7 truck) at around $35-50. will give you more power, quicker starting, etc. NEXT, if you have stock single exhaust, swap to duals and increse the air flow out the back----if noise is not a problem---go to headers as well---should give you more HP and improve MPG. Switching to an Edlebrock carb and intake will cost a bit but also improve MPG and HP.
All of the above could be done for around $300-400. Now depending on what you want to accomplish, MPH or HP, you could change rear gears or transmission as well. My 72 originally got about 12-13mpg---after all of the above including a 5 speed, I have significanlty more power and up to 22mpg on the highway. Hope this helps---good luck---Huck |
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#6 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
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You and I could help each other along in this department. I've got a stock '80 350 out of a 1500 that I'm thinking about upgrading. It doesn't need rebuilding, and gets good compression, but its performance leaves more to be desired.
I'm seriously thinking about going with some headers, and doing another swap on the intake for a 4bbl setup. Right now the previous owner dropped a 327 2bbl intake and carb, which I've rebuilt and maintained, but I think I'm ready to move to something else. The 650 cfm carbs look pretty easy to install. The only thing would be choosing the intake you want to use. I'm getting pretty damn good with points, so I'll probably go to an HEI later...
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,491
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1. Check compression -- make sure all cylinders are close to the same. If your engine has 9:1 CR, the compression gauge should read around 120 -135 lbs. If one or more cylinders are down to around 100, you probably have ring or valve problems. 2. Add dual exhausts with 2.25" pipes. 3. Make sure the heat riser valve is opening when it's hot. 4. Make sure mechanical and vacuum advance work properly. 5. Replace plug wires, preferably with spiral wound models. 6. If possible, replace timing chain and oil pump.
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Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 10-28-2002 at 01:26 PM. |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Maryville Mo
Posts: 122
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Thanks for the help guys. The first improvment i need to make is put a new battery in it, she wouldn't even turn over Friday night. Didn't have time to play with it though, it was opening weekend of duck season, got to have priortities.
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72 Cheyenne 1/2T LWB original ochre/white 09 Silverado ECSB 76 International ScoutII |
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