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11-10-2006, 02:37 PM
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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: St robert Mo
Posts: 2,001
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stupid brake question
The brake system is setup so that if a front or rear brake line breaks and leaks out only the front or rear will be no functional leaving the other half unafected. So you would still have one or the other correct. So you would have to lose pressure in both to have no brakes. Is this correct?
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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11-10-2006, 03:09 PM
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 894
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Re: stupid brake question
Yes.
My Blazer had a rear wheel cylinder that leaked all the fluid out of the rear of the system and a seized driver's front wheel cylinder. Only the front right brake worked!
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-Chris Building a stripper, one part at a time: 1969 K5, 307, 3spd, 3 seats, hard top. Added Pwr Discs, Pwr Steering, Aux Battery, T-case Skid, Lighted Sidemarkers, HEI, Lock-Right Diff, ECE Class IV Hitch, 32" MT/Rs. Parts to Install: Hand Throttle, Console, Tow Hooks, Dual Horns, AM-FM, Dealer Swing-Away Tire Carrier, Gas Tank Skid. Also building a 1950 Willys CJ-3A and off-roading a 2001 Nissan Frontier on 1-Ton Portals... |
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11-10-2006, 03:39 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Porterville, CA
Posts: 146
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Re: stupid brake question
LOL i bet it pull's like crazy to the right when you brake?
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11-10-2006, 05:54 PM
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#4 |
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its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Re: stupid brake question
While that is technicly true, don't count on it to stop you very well. If the rear goes out, you may be OK, but if it is the front that goes out, think of that pedal as a delayer... not a brake.
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11-10-2006, 06:05 PM
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: St robert Mo
Posts: 2,001
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Re: stupid brake question
No longhorn man I would not count on it. Was more of an observation and wanted to ask to satisfy my curiosity.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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11-10-2006, 07:28 PM
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#6 |
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Lewisville, Nc
Posts: 10,237
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Re: stupid brake question
my rear brakes went out going down the road my truck would not stop untill i put a plug in the rear port of the mc but yes thats techinaly true
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David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube |
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11-10-2006, 08:23 PM
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#7 |
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laying low
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Searcy, Ark. USA
Posts: 13,452
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Re: stupid brake question
Well ol Leroy whateverhislastnameis deserves a hardy pat on the back for this idea. Two more or less independent brake systems in case a wheel cylinder fails or a brake line breaks. If one end fails you should still have "some" brakes left. Since the front brakes do about 80% of the work I would rather the rear ones be the ones to fail if it has to happen.
Then, if one can remember it in an emergency, one can step on the parking brake. Is yours adjusted correctly? 
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Boog 69 Chevy stepside, 358/T350, 4.11 posi, 4.5/4 drop, rallys, poboy driver primer is finer 91 Chevy sportside, Tahoe, Yukon & GMC Crewcab All GM..'nuff said. I stand for the flag and kneel at the cross |
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11-11-2006, 04:50 AM
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#8 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 894
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Re: stupid brake question
Quote:
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-Chris Building a stripper, one part at a time: 1969 K5, 307, 3spd, 3 seats, hard top. Added Pwr Discs, Pwr Steering, Aux Battery, T-case Skid, Lighted Sidemarkers, HEI, Lock-Right Diff, ECE Class IV Hitch, 32" MT/Rs. Parts to Install: Hand Throttle, Console, Tow Hooks, Dual Horns, AM-FM, Dealer Swing-Away Tire Carrier, Gas Tank Skid. Also building a 1950 Willys CJ-3A and off-roading a 2001 Nissan Frontier on 1-Ton Portals... |
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