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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 1,136
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? about brakes
I've slowly been saving some money to dump into my truck and have a couple questions about brakes. The only things I really have left to do are do the front disk swap and get the gas tank out of the cab. I figured I'd do the disk conversion first. I have a 69 with power drums. My truck is already lowered 2/4, and I want to take it down to 4/6 with the drop spindles and springs. Anyway, back to the questions. I was searching the archives but couldn't find anything really on this. I want to reuse my existing brake lines as much as possible. Mine are on the back of the crossmember and I heard the 71/72 trucks had the lines on the front of the xmember. Is this a problem or do they have to be moved? Also, whats the deal with the brake hoses? Drums are behind the spindles, where the disk hoses are in front.... is this right?? I'm just trying to anticipate any problems. I'm buying all new parts *spindles, 6 lug brake kit, etc.* This is such a common topic around here I should have payed more attention, but all this information becomes a lot more critical when it starts applying to yourself. Tell me anything I should watch out for. Thanks!!!
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My engine is stock... trust me ;o) |
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#2 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: May 2000
Location: IL
Posts: 0
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you wil have to completely re-route your lines because drums front had lines back behind the x member and 71 moved them up to in front of ther member, and hoses are not same either, in 73 they changed the routing a little bit but are still up front nd hoses lines pass through frame rail which i think is better deal personally.
good luck |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 1,136
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Anyone buy the complete disk brake kit from Early Classics? Were you completely satisfied? Do they include everything you need??
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My engine is stock... trust me ;o) |
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#4 |
Member since 2000
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Mountain View Ca / Mexico
Posts: 7,879
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i'd trust early classic wiht my children, but i dont have kids so it not a problem, lol. yes there kits are very nice and if you do have a problem they will fix it or even help you over the phone if you get stuck.
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#5 |
faster, faster, faster
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Houston ,Texas ,USA
Posts: 1,354
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Well, the lines on my 72 are routed on the rear of the x member, and they are original, so I believe that is incorrect. The way they run is from the proportioning valve they run to a T block at the top left corner of the x member. Fom there the right line is ran on the rear of the x member an curves up and over the x member under the motor mount, where it make a right and is attached to the flexible line at the bracket. the Left side is routed a little differently, but I cannot remember exactly how right now. You may be lucky enought to only have to change the master cylinder, and the fittings on the ends of your existing lines, if they don't fit the new soft lines for the disks. They should fit though. With the extra drop there really shouldn't be a problem with clearance of the lines. It should be a really easy swap.
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I'm going to Law School, wanna debate? It's good practice. |
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#6 | |
14.1 @ 96MPH
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 2,811
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Quote:
![]() Oh...buy new rear wheel cylinders. It seems to be a slightly common problem (at least myself and one other ECE-kit-owner I've talked to...and Dave - the owner! - knew the problem immediately when I called him describing it) for the rear wheel cylinders to pop after installing the kit.
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 1,136
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That's why I think I wanna go with ECE, I've never heard anything bad about them and their kit is very complete. It's hard to shell out that kind of cash for the brakes, but it has to be done. I saved up about a grand, so it was do the disk brake swap or buy an air conditioning kit from GMC Paul....... tough choice
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My engine is stock... trust me ;o) |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 7,721
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The brake lines go down the rear of the crossmember, then they crossover to the front. In order to not fold and kink the lines, they need to route from the front. I ordered a set of 72 3/4 ton truck lines from Inline Tube when I did the swap on my 70 3/4. I had to buy rebuilt 71-72 calipers as they setup I swapped on was from a newer truck. I cut the tabs, where the rubber lines go in and are clipped to, from a donor truck. I then tack welded them on the front in the right spot. You could cut the ones off your truck, but I wanted the option to go back. (Fat chance that ever happens, it's nice the truck stops!)
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 190
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Brake Line Routing
I just finished (today) installing all new stainless steel brake lines (Inline Tube) on our 71 Burb. With only 49,000 original miles the brake lines were the original ones and ran BEHIND the front crossmember...this may be peculiar for Burbs, but I did a 71 P/U 2 years ago and as I recall, the brake lines lines were also to the REAR of the front crossmember...... The Inline Tube SS Brake lines fit exactly as the originals (with spring wrap as well) ...no problem installing (and made easier since rebuilt engine/trans is not yet installed.)..I purchased the brake lilne clip kit to ensure all was up to par. I'll be installing ECEs 2 1/2 dropped front spindles with new calipers and rotors (to include Inline's stainless steel flex hoses front and rear) along with the ECE 4" drop rear coil springs....front brake line routing to the Driver side front caliper is up and over the crossmember (secured on the top with a brake line clip) and then drops down in front of the xmember about half way and angles to the left to hook into the flex line...Pass side is similar, but angles to the right to meet the flex brake line) All of ECEs products are 1st class with tremendous customer service/support IMHO...hope this helps!!
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