Holley 600 Rebuild / Overhaul

[rage'nrat638]

WELCOME TO HOLLEY REBUILD DAY
I HAVE IN FRONT OF ME A 600 HOLLEY CARB W/ELECTRIC CHOKE, MOST ADVANCE AUTO STORES STOCK REBUILD KITS FOR THIS CARB.
A FEW ITEMS NEEDED TO DO THE JOB
HOLLEY REBUILD KIT
COMPRESSED AIR
GASKET REMOVER
GUNK HYDRO SEAL PARTS CLEANER
LIGHT OIL
CLEANING BRUSH'S
5/8 WRENCH
1" WRENCH
5/16 NUT DRIVER
CARB STAND --- MAKES JOB A SNAP
FRISBEE --- PARTS TRAY
CLEANING TUB
WATER
CLEAN WORKING AREA

Here we are going to start by removing the front bowl. this is the one with the banjo fuel fitting attached, and accelerator pump. you can see that the old gasket was cut/torn misaligned, and that it had been leaking.
start putting your parts removed in your parts tray

[rage'nrat638]

#2 NEXT WE CONTINUE GOING IN
this is the primary metering block, it has your power valve and two fuel jets attached.
be carefull not to break off the alignment tabs, these love to be stuck to the front of the carb body.
HERE you can see the fuel tranfer tube with the sealing rubbers on each end.

i also included a picture of the gasket remover .. good luck finding this stuff.

you can see how the gaskets love to stick every where.

USE YOUR GASKET REMOVER

[rage'nrat638]

#3 MOVING ON
here we have the back side of the metering block, i can't stress enough how important this gasket remover is for holley carbs. if you try scraping this gasket crap off you will load up all the little passages with paper. and all of this stuff will be floating in your parts cleaner moving to every part your trying to clean.

i will spray the old gasket with the remover and set aside to sit.

NOTICE your fuel mixture screws here on each end of the metering block

in the last picture i moved a head and removed the rear bowl. while you were not looking..

that is the rear metering plate.

USE YOU GASKET REMOVER !!!!!

[rage'nrat638]

#4 THIS IS THE REAR BOWL REMOVED.
here you can see the rear bowl removed, and the secondary metering plate exposed.
HERE AGAIN..
be very carefull not to break off the alignment tabs on this plate.
you can see how the rear bowl gasket was cut/torn at the top from over tighting and caused leaking.

this is where looking at your instructions come's in handy to know if your missing any parts. i will be adding a second plate to this set-up on reinstall.

use your gasket remover !!!!!!!

[rage'nrat638]

#5 FLIP THIS BABY OVER

This is the bottom plate. remove all the screws and put them in your parts tray.
you need to remove the vacuum secondary diaphragm rod from the base plate to remove the bottom plate.

heres a picture of the best cleaner i have ever found it's 26.00 a gallon and worth every penny.
as you can see from the container i keep some around.

USE YOUR GASKET REMOVER

[rage'nrat638]

#6 LETS START CLEANING
heres my drain pan converted into my cleaning pan...

you can see at the cost of my favorite parts cleaner i am not going to waste it..
i pour a little in the bottom of the pan and move it around with my soft brush.
i clean the day lights out of every part on this thing.
next to me i have a 5 gallon bucket of water, that i did not show. i don't even have to get-up bad back you know. so as i clean each part i wash it off in the water, and blow dry with my compressed air

THE KEY TO ANY CARB JOB

is a clean working area, and compressed air, use you eyes here. blow out every little passage. here in the 2nd to the last picture i point out a little ball check valve made into the plate. how could you clean that out with out compressed air? spray carb cleaner..maybe !!!

hand towel dry all parts and set aside

[rage'nrat638]

#7 NEXT WE HAVE THE PRIMARY FRONT BOWL IN HAND.

remove the accelerator pump screws. notice how things come apart. because we don't want any parts left over when we are done here..lol

carefully remove the needle and seat's on both front and rear bowls, keeping all your parts.

NOTICE THE RED RUBBER FUEL CHECK VALVE WE WILL REPLACE THIS LATER
USE YOUR GASKET REMOVER

WASH EACH PART RINSE AND BLOW DRY SIT ASIDE

NOTICE THE NEEDLE AND SEAT THREADS. PEOPLE LOVE TO STRIP THESE OUT

MINE ARE FINE !!!!

[rage'nrat638]

#8 METERING BLOCK FUEL MIXTURE SCREWS
notice the little cork gasket that seals these screws, if they don't come out with the screw carefulley remove them from there hole with a small screw driver

PICTURED IS A JET REMOVER TOOL

CLEAN ALL YOUR PARTS, BLOW THEM DRY, WIPE WITH A TOWEL SIT ASIDE.

THE LAST PICTURE I HAVE MOVED AHEAD AND REMOVED THE ELECTRIC CHOKE THERMO STAT

[rage'nrat638]

#9 OK NOW WE HAVE THE T-STAT HOUSING OFF...
KEEP THE LITTLE CLIP THAT HOLDS THE LINKAGE TO THE CHOKE FLAP ROD IN YOUR PARTS TRAY

NEXT LETS REMOVE THE FRONT PUMP SQUIRTER... notice the little pointed check valve. i can't tell you how many carbs i taken apart that this baby is missing.
it was also missing the bottom gasket.. not good

you can see where it fit's in the air horn there.

[rage'nrat638]

#10 now wash all the parts, blow out every passage and clean up the work area. it's time to put this bad boy back together.

I HAVE BOUGHT AND SAVED ALL KINDS OF PARTS FOR HOLLEY CARBS OVER THE YEARS

ANYTIME I NEED TO REBUILD ONE I GET OUT MY TRUSTY BOXES LOADED FULL OF GOODIES

[rage'nrat638]

#11 FIRST I WILL INSTALL THE BOTTOM PLATE ONTO THE MAIN BODY
check your gasket to make sure it fit's and covers all the passage ways

now lets install the vacuum secondary diaphragm housing
here i am checking the diaphragm to make sure it's good. push in on the rod and hold your finger over the passage way, if the rod stay's in your good to go..

if not your will need to buy a diaphragm, it's not included in the kit

make sure you install the round gasket.. this is missed many times,,NOT TODAY

[rage'nrat638]

#12 Now Lets Install The The Secondary Diaphragm Rod. Install The Little Clip That Holds This In Place.

On This Unit I Had To Take The Electric Choke Housing Apart And Get The Little Piston Inside Unstuck..thats A Different Day..

Install The Little Round Gasket. And The Clip That Holds The Rod And Install The Screws

[rage'nrat638]

#13 NOW THAT THE RIGHT SIDES BACK TOGETHER LETS MOVE ON..

I AM GOING TO INSTALL THE REAR METERING PLATE.

THIS CARB DID NOT HAVE THE SMALL THIN PLATE THAT GOES WITH THE METERING PLATE SO I AM ADDING ONE WITH THE GASKET..IT PAYS TO KNOW THESE CARBS SO YOU CAN FIND THESE PARTS THAT ARE MISSING.

NEXT WE INSTALL THE NEEDLE AND SEATS. NOTICE THE GASKETS. I PLACE A DROP OF OIL ON THE O-RING SO IT GOES IN NICE.

BENCH SET THE FLOAT IT SHOULD BE LEVEL

[rage'nrat638]

#14 Next We Install The Bowl. Don't Forget The Round Screw Gaskets..

Now Flip The Carb To The Front.

Lets Change The Primary Pump Red Rubber Check Valve. Pull The Old One Out. And Install The New One. I All Ways Cut Off The Long Tail To Keep It From Hitting The Spring Inside.

[rage'nrat638]

#15 Here I Have Changed The Front Float Because It Did Not Work Right.

You Need To Bend The Float So The Needle And Seat Are In The Middle Of It's Adjustment.
And With The Floats Level. Bence Set, Were Good To Go.

Next I Install The New Front Pump Diphgram. Put It Together, With The Four Screws

[rage'nrat638]

#16 HERE WE HAVE THE FRONT BOWL READY TO GO.

NOW I REINSTALL THE #65 jets with my jet tool shown before.

I INSTALL MY NEW # 6.5 power valve with the gasket

i install the cork idle mixture crew gaskets. i put them in the holes then insert the screws. seat them and back out 2 turns for bench setting.

[rage'nrat638]

#17 next we install the fuel transfer tube rubbers, on each end of the tube, i add a drop of oil to make the seat nice when i install the front bowl.

last i reinstall the front squirter. gasket on top and bottom..

[rage'nrat638]

#18 now we get to install this baby back on our rig

every thing is bench set. use your instructions as every carb is different.

you will need to adjust your fuel level in each bowl. front and rear. the idle mixture screws. and check for leaks.

I HOPE THIS HAS BEEN SOME HELP . IF ANY ONE NEEDS TO P.M. ME AND ASK A QUESTION YOUR WELCOME TO. JUST TAKE YOUR TIME. USE QUALITY PARTS. KEEP YOUR EYES OUT FOR PARTS THAT MIGHT BE MISSING FROM SOMEONE ELSE'S HANDY WORK

HAPPY MOTORING

HERES HOLLEYS WEB SITE,, FIND YOUR CARB NUMBER OFF THE AIR HORN AND YOU CAN FIND THE START-UP INSTRUCTIONS FOR EVERY CARB. AND A PARTS LISTING..

http://www.holley.com/TechService/In...?query=&page=2

[rage'nrat638]

#1
very important that both floats be in the middle of there adjustment.
you will see the picture where i bench set the floats level, bowls upside down. you need to bend the float around until the needle and set are in the middle of its adjustment and the floats are level.

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#2
all ways remove the power valve(s) and jets then...
all the passages must be blown out with compressed air.
if you blow compressed air into each passage, you can tell where the air come's out. or might not be if plugged
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#3
i always use the gasket remover to keep from scraping the gaskets off, making tons of paper shavings that fall into the fuel and vacuum passages.
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#4
make sure your power valve gasket is centered around the valve when you tighten it down.

#5
make sure your pump squirter nozzle has a top and bottom gasket.

#6 the rear metering plate. did it have a spacer plate and thin gasket? i have seen where the big bowl gasket pushes into the passages. with out the spacer plate and thin gasket.

I ADDED THE THIN PLATE AND GASKET TO THIS CARB.
YOU CAN SEE WHERE THE BIG BLUE BOWL GASKET SQUEEZED INTO THE METERING PLATE PASSAGES. WITHOUT THE SPACER PLATE USED. YOU CAN SEE HOW MUCH FLOW GETS EFFECTED

hope this helps your pal mark

THANKS GUY'S FOR YOUR COMMITS GLAD TO BE OF HELP. NOTHING BETTER THAN TO THINK I MADE A DIFFERENCE IN SOMEONES LIFE