New alternator

[killer71]

I don't know about you guys but i'm tired of fooling with rebuilt alternators. Anyone have any recommendations on where to get a new one wire with internal regulator alternator?????????? Looking at Summit and jegs but wanted you guys opinion!!!!!!!!!!

[GonFishn]

I put a new Powermaster in my truck. Was easy and works great. Call them and they can get you the right model for your truck.

[piecesparts]

I am using alternaotrs from TUFF STUFF www.tuffstuffperformance.com

They are excellent alternators and the company stands behind them. I got mine to carry 80 amps at idle, since I have electric fans and stereo components.

[71chevylowrider]

can i ask you guys a question on your new Alternators? Did it fix the dim lights at idle problem?

[killer71]

when i deleted the external regulator and converted to the internal regulator seemed to fix it but my problem is that the remanufactured alternators are not lasting that long.

[piecesparts]

Part of the reason that I went to the 80 amp at idle alts, was due to the fans and the air conditioning and everything else dragging down the factory unit at a stoplight. I stepped up my units to 140 amps, which is not really needed unless you have a heavy load on your charging system, such as fans--etc. I also wired my headlights straight to the battery, using a Painless Performance wiring harness, to get a full 12 volts to the lights, vice going through the headlight switch with the load.

A factory alternator only puts out around 35 amps at idle and that is definitely a little light in maintaining the loads at norm.

I gave up on rebuilt alternators forever.

[WorkinLonghorn]

can i ask you guys a question on your new Alternators? Did it fix the dim lights at idle problem?

You shouldn't have this problem.There is something else wrong.What is your idle speed set at? Do you have standard pulleys or underdrive (alternator turning slower than stock)? Have you checked the voltage at the battery at idle? Mine is charging at idle and if you have a crappy battery it may be drawing too much current.

[71chevylowrider]

I'm running at about 725-750 rpm's at idle in drive. Don't know much about the alternator other then it's chrome & has been rebuilt in the past, I have a Red Top Optima battery, & I do have an aluminum pully set, (I think March pullys) here's picture of the pully setup, & I'm running pretty expensive H4 headlights, & it bugs me when their so dim at idle (the dash lights are dim too) when I get up to about 1,000 -1,200 rpms the headlights are very bright the old battery is in this pic though.

[RedZ71]

if i were made out of money, i would pick up a MeanGreen (for no reason!).

http://www.mean-green.com/products/alternator.html

[71chevylowrider]

Looks very cool, how much are they? Not that I'm made of money.

[killer71]

Is the mean green pretty good equipment!

[Pl4yboy]

In the car audio world we try to get the best charging systems possible. Here's a few people we use...

Iraggi
http://www.excessiveamperage.com/
www.mean-green.com/

Most of these are HO alternators and will handle anything these old trucks can throw at them.

[mrein3]

The dim at idle headlights has NOTHING to do with your alternator. It has everything to do with the fact that GM put 20 feet of 16 gauge wire, a crummy old headlight switch, and a dimmer switch between a voltage source and your headlights. The current has to run through all that small wire and through all those connectors.

Put a volt meter on your headlight with them on. I measured around 10.8 volts before I switched to using relays.

Search for headlight relay upgrade and follow the instructions that have been posted many times.

[Pl4yboy]

Or you could just upgrade the wire....

[71chevylowrider]

I get what your saying, but what about the dash lights doing the same thing? Same problem with too much thin wire between them & the battery?

[WorkinLonghorn]

OK,I just checked mine for comparison. At slow idle I have 14.2 volts at the battery.If I turn on the headlights the voltage goes down to 14.1 and the lights are as bright as they ever get.These are regular spec lights though,(40W each I believe). I did however replace the main lead off the battery (after it melted) with some household wiring I happened to have on-board at the time,but I never remember having dim headlights before I switched.
>> Check your idle voltage at the battery with and without lights on and post here.

[71chevylowrider]

Okay, thats a good idea, I will do that & post the results thanks working longhorn, & everyone else for their help & input.

[Pl4yboy]

Uh.. also check your voltage @ the light. It loses all the power in that tiny little wire for 20 ft. Thats where you'll see the big drop.

[WorkinLonghorn]

Yeah,except we sorta know he has low voltage at the lights or they probly wouyldn't be dim! So I'd start at the battery to see the health of the charging system.jmho

[3/4tonterror]

I Had My Alt Rebuilt At A Local Shop About 10 Yrs Ago. Its Still Kickin Some How.

[Sonny]

It looks like you have an underdrive pulley set. If your crank pulley is almost the same size as your harmonic balancer you have an underdrive setup. I have the same problem with my serpentine underdrive setup from March. The alt is not turning fast enough and it will damage your alternator too. I am on my second rebuild and the alternator guy said that when it is turning that slow the voltage drops and the current draw goes up which kills the rectifier.
If not then you have a voltage drop problem somewhere, just as mrein3 suggested.

[71chevylowrider]

oh boy, & my alternator is chrome too & those don't always last that long, so even if I have low voltage at the battery, it could be as simple as the undrive pully has changed the rpm of the alternator? So do I just put a different size pully on the alternator to fis it? (If that's the problem)