baggin questions

[kevncar]

I’m thinking of baggin my 67. I’ve read several post on this subject, some of which are much more extreme drops than what I have in mind. I want to drop it to achieve the stance that these two trucks have.




I don’t want to cut the bed, but I want to be able to get the diff as close as possible. I’ll block the back if needed to fine tune ride height. My plan is Slam Specialties RE7s front and back with suicidedoors plates on the front. Here is where the questions begin.

Front
1.) Some have talked about cutting the bottom cups down to about ¾”. Do I need to do this to get the above stance at driving height?
2.) I had already ordered my spindles, springs and shocks for a 4/6 from ECE, will the shocks that came with that setup work with the bags?
Rear
1.) Keep in mind I don’t want to cut through the bed floor, will I need to do a small C-notch?
2.) Will I have issues with the driveshaft and the trailing arm crossmember?
3.) Pinion angle issues?

I haven’t decided on a Air Management system yet, I really like the Air Ride Tech Digital system, but it’s way expensive. I could probablly do the whole suspension twice for what they want for the air system alone. So I’m still taking suggestions. I could probablly just put some schraeder valves on there and air the bags up with my garage compressor while I’m building the chassis.

Thanks for any comments

[jimmydean]

To ride at that height, you will need to cut about an inch off the lower cups. I would recommend the CPP bolt in notch or something like it for the back, then weld it in for security. You could use a pipe, but it requires a bit more work and the notches are only $100.

I got the drop shocks for my truck and found out the front was too short. It limited the lift I got with the RE7 bags by nearly 2". I kept the rear, but they also limit the lift I get by at least 1.5". That is with shock relocators as well.

For air management, I just have 2 dual needle gauges ($5 each off ebay) and a 7 switch box ($35 off ebay). I am running 8 1/2" valves, but would recommend using 3/8" because the fill and dump was too fast to control. I bought adjusters to decrease the speed. It would have saved me about $200 if I would have just used all 3/8" tubing and valves.

Hope that helps.

Here is my truck at full dump. I have a 3" cup in the rear (no notch) and I have not cut my front cups. I am using a 235/75-15 tire.



<edit> you won't be driving at full dump, so you will want to be about 2" or more lower overall.

[kevncar]

how tall are the front cups before cutting them? And what do you mean, a 3" cup in the rear? I didn't think there was anything to modify back there, just bolt in the air spring and go? I suppose the only real critical part is the front. You can always make a block to lower the rear more to fine tune it, but the front is pretty much done unless you get into z-ing the frame or sectioning the Crossmember.

Your's looks about perfect, but I want it like that, or the 2 above, all the time, not just aired out while parking.

Thanks for your help.

[jimmydean]

I think they are at least 3 inches, but could be more.

Looking at the site, these look a lot lower than mine, so they could have changed the design. I wouldn't cut these, they would be perfect.

[IMG]http://www.*****************/images/products/67-98_Fullsize_Chevy_Lower_Airbag_Cups.jpg[/IMG]

[Shane]

no cups needed on rear ... bolt in place of coil spring

[jimmydean]

I ran a cup in the rear only because I decided to not cut the frame right now (and I had the cup anyway). I am waiting for the Porterbuilt C4 back half, so it seemed silly to do all the work to notch the frame only to change it all out later this year anyway.

I should have held off on the front as well (since I will likely run the C4 dropmember too), but live and learn.

So if you run a lower cup in the front and notch the back with the RE7 back mounted in place of the spring, you would have your ride height right about where my truck sits in that picture.

[yoyokidss]

you can get this look by a bolt in notch from ccp, replace rear springs w/ a bag and and 2in blocksand the front needs 2.5 spindles w/ atr lower arms and a bag.. your top of the back rim will sit level w/ the fender openin if u are running 20's and tuck bout 1-1.5in of wheel in front.. thats the look im after and after doing my suspension my self i will have acheived the look.. will be a tad lower than the pics u gave

[randomhero472]

just search for these 2 members trucks, they have exaclty what your talking about.. i'll be doing this same setup in the next few weeks

BigSky71
67fleet

[BigSky71]

Originally Posted by yoyokidss

you can get this look by a bolt in notch from ccp, replace rear springs w/ a bag and and 2in blocksand the front needs 2.5 spindles w/ atr lower arms and a bag.. your top of the back rim will sit level w/ the fender openin if u are running 20's and tuck bout 1-1.5in of wheel in front.. thats the look im after and after doing my suspension my self i will have acheived the look.. will be a tad lower than the pics u gave

Yoyo is exactly correct. With the setup noted, rear 20s just barely tuck rim, front tucks about an 1" of rim.

[kevncar]

What will the ART arms really do for me? I'm looking to keep the costs down on this, it's already hard to talk the wifey into baggin when I have a 4/6 ECE setup on the workbench in the garage. ART stuff is cool, but WAY expensive. I was hoping to sell my springs to pretty much offset the cost of 4 RE7s and the $60 plates and cups from suicidedoors.

[Shane]

stock arms will work

[tom coop]

the art arms will give you more drop because the bag bolts right to it. no need for cups

[BigSky71]

I am running the stock arms. If the arms were more visible I might be inclined to run them, but I rather spend that coin on more subs .

[randomhero472]

Originally Posted by kevncar

What will the ART arms really do for me? I'm looking to keep the costs down on this, it's already hard to talk the wifey into baggin when I have a 4/6 ECE setup on the workbench in the garage. ART stuff is cool, but WAY expensive. I was hoping to sell my springs to pretty much offset the cost of 4 RE7s and the $60 plates and cups from suicidedoors.

i feel your pain kevin, my 67 has a BRAND new cpp 3/4 spring setup on it, truck hasnt been driven 10 miles since installed, when i told my wife my plans for bagging the truck she wasnt to pumped, but like you i'll be selling the springs to "offset' the cost of bags

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tom coop

the art arms will give you more drop because the bag bolts right to it. no need for cups

Are you sure about this? If you cut the 'cups' down for the stock a-arms, I believe you'll get as low as ART's arms will.

ART's arms do offer better (updated) geometry vs. stock GM arms though.

Kevncar, 2.5" spindles & bags up front (definitely upgrade to a sway bar w/urethane bushings). Out back, bags, 1.5~2" blocks, relocate the shocks, & some bolt-in c-sections will get you close enough to damage the bed floor w/the bags @ low psi.

The drive shaft will come close to hitting the top of the crossmember but the rear will hit the bed floor first.

[Shane]

I agree with Scoti ... once the cups are cut down, the stock arms provide just as much drop as the ART pieces. The main advantage comes for the improved angles of the upper and lower ball joint when using both ART arms (upper & lower). Although I can't recall anyone complaining about ball joint failure or premature wear that were using the stock arms.

[timzrides]

i'm in the same situation as kevncar, what are you guys doing with shocks, i was told to use stock for the front and lowered shocks for the rear. if so what shock relocaters do you prefer for the rear. suicidedoors' bar from c-notch to c-notch or something different. thanks

[randomhero472]

let me ask a question.. how many of you guys are using 2 valves up front, as opposed to 4 valves up front, i'd like to just do 4 valves total, but dont want to have massive body-roll up front

[yoyokidss]

on a 71 lower control arm.. if u cut cups to make it fit3/4in and 2.5spindles u will not tuck tire. my cups are cut and 2.5spindles and top of tire it flush no tuck

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by yoyokidss

on a 71 lower control arm.. if u cut cups to make it fit3/4in and 2.5spindles u will not tuck tire. my cups are cut and 2.5spindles and top of tire it flush no tuck

What's limiting you? Bumpstop? Tire height?

[yoyokidss]

bag rubbing lower control arms... re8's

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by randomhero472

let me ask a question.. how many of you guys are using 2 valves up front, as opposed to 4 valves up front, i'd like to just do 4 valves total, but dont want to have massive body-roll up front

It's only $100 more for 4 more valves. The quality of ride and the amount of control you gain is worth way more than $100. Do it right, do it once.

[yoyokidss]

i got the re7's

[Tony@AirRideTech]

Who's black truck in the first picture? That is one nice lookin truck!

[kevncar]

Yeah, it's an amazing truck. It belongs to chevy_632. Here's his thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=232108