72 K20 build thread, need good name

[msgross]

Originally Posted by Rust Buster

Got some more done today. Pulled the transfer case (man that thing is heavy, anyone know how much it weighs?

somewhere between "oh my god" & "holy $hit, this is heavy" I tried to lift my T/C and tranny by hand and it wasn't happening (and I can bench 325lbs!) SO I picked up a cherry picker at Harbor Freight for $95.

What's going back in the beast? Where are you in VA again? I'm coming to Ft. Lee on Sunday for a 5 days course.

Mike

[Rust Buster]

I'm in Chantilly, near Dulles airport.
Right now I plan on putting the GM PP 383 in it with a NV4500. This all depends on fund though...

[1969k10stepside]

The transfer case weighs a little over 150 pounds.I had to lift mine up to sit it in the chassis of mine the other day..It wasn't that bad of a lift.On the other hand when you put a sm465 4 spd in the equation it does get a little heavy!

[msgross]

Originally Posted by 1969k10stepside

The transfer case weighs a little over 150 pounds.I had to lift mine up to sit it in the chassis of mine the other day..It wasn't that bad of a lift.On the other hand when you put a sm465 4 spd in the equation it does get a little heavy!

no doubt, plus bell housing! I have to get this puppy to the car wash for a good scrubbing now...

Chantilly,VA if I wasn't carpooling down to Richmond I would swing by to see the rig. Are you getting everything sandblasted next?

TAKE TONS OF PICTURES.. OF EVERYTHING it's amazing how many bolt holes the frames have...

[1969k10stepside]

When you pulled the motor....was there only mounts that go on the motor block or are there more rubber mounts on the front crossmember that the mounts bolt to? I'm trying to put the motor in mine but cant find any rubber mounts that go on the crossmember,only the ones that go on the block

[Rust Buster]

Not sure if this helps, but on mine there's only supports at the mounts. Here's a pic. the weight is supported by the mounts and then the rear crossmember with the tranny.

[1969k10stepside]

Yeah,I got it figured out later this afternoon.I thought besides the mounts for the block,that there was more "rubber" on the bottom side of the crossmember.I got to tinkering with it and got everything figured out.It just has the mounts that bolt on the block.

[Rust Buster]

Well my $22 engine cradle from Summit came today, so I took out the motor. It doesn't allow me to rotate it, but that's allright, for now it is just for storage. It's sturdy, went on easy, and allows me to roll the engine around to get it out of the way in my cramped work space. Now I can start prepping the frame.

[Rust Buster]

Slowly getting things torn down. Got the front leaf springs out and I'll replace those as they don't appear to be stock and are in rough shape.

I figured while I am at it I'll replace the balljoints. I'm not sure they need it but I figured I might as well since now is the time to do it and they aren't too expensive. So I started the dissassembly to get to them. A couple of questions...

I had the front axle rebuilt last year when I changed gears, so the inner and outer wheel bearings are new. While taking the rotors off, each inner wheel bearing has this thin cable looking thing visible (Circled in yellow). What is it, and how do I get it back where it is supposed to be?

The axle shafts are pretty rusty. Is this bad? It looks like there is nothing to seal where they enter the axle tube, is there supposed to be something? There was some play in and out. Do i just sand of the rust and grease it up?

Where can I get new steering arm nuts, since everything I read says you cannot reuse them?

Lastly, how much pain am I going to be in trying to get the ball joints out?

Thanks!

[msgross]

the shafts look normal, they are open to the air and mud until they rear the diff on the inside, then they seal up. There might be a little play but shouldn't be much. You spindle holds it all together...

I would pull that bearing out though, looks like an inner piece is loose. I would get new one's. I'm also replacing the spindle (needle bearings $7ea) right now on mine....

I would just get new lock nuts for the steering arm...any NAPA should have them..

[Rust Buster]

Still plugging away. I have everything detached from the frame and started prepping it for paint. Started grinding with a flap wheel and then straight discs but once you cut through the surface rust, the original black paint was clogging the pads. So I went and got Mar-hyde's Tal-Strip aircraft stripper and it worked great. Went back and got a gallon of it. it burns like hell if you get it on your skin though. It almost looks like you've sandblasted the metal when you peel off the paint.

So plan is to continue this process until I am happy (I am anal with prep) clean with wax and grease remover, then two coats of rust bullet and 2 coats of their new black chell topcoat. I was thinking about Herculining the frame too, but figure if I ever need to get it off it will be too much a hassle. I like the idea of extra protection against gravel and chips though....what do you guys think? What would you use to paint the frame?

Lastly bought a few gallons of Purple Power parts cleaner/degreaser. Dumped it in a big tub and it will be my parts cleaner on the cheap. Worked great on the first thing I tried it on. Will clean on the parts with that then sandblast them before more rust bullet.

Hope to have th frame painted next weekend.
Also got all my new Moog front end parts in (Rockauto.com is awesome), and got my new leaf springs. Ordered new front and rear shackles from ORD.

[Rust Buster]

Well it's been a tiresome job prepping the frame for paint. First grinding, then wire wheeling, then aircraft stripper...

Tried a pressure pot sandblaster but the compressor I was borrowing didn't have the CFM to really make it worth it. So then my last attempt at getting the rust out of the nooks and crannies was a needle scaler. They can sell for as much as $275, but never having used one before, I got a cheap one from Northern Tools for $35. Man, that thing is worth it's weight in gold! It worked like a charm.

Got the first coat of Rust Bullet on the entire frame. I brushed it on but it took forever so the next coat and then the two coats of their Black Shell topcoat will be sprayed. Then I can finally start putting this thing back together.

Going to get a new rear tank from fuelcell guy with a fuel pump in it (that's better than an external pump right?), and then on to tranny and engine...

[msgross]

looking better now...good job

my compressor wasn't quite large enough for my blaster either... had to blast @ 30psi but it worked. I should have just taken it in, I ended up paying for my axles and all my crossmembers to get done.

[Rust Buster]

Yeah, for the cost of some of the tools I've bought and all the times it's taken to prep it, I'm sure I could have paid less to have it all blasted. But then again I don't have a trailer or a means to get it there....oh well

[Rust Buster]

Mike, I got the same rear ORD shackles you have but mine came painted gray. Did you repaint yours or do you think the finish they put on there will last?

[msgross]

I bought the front ORD shackles and they were coated in zinc gold color... Haven't seen the rears. Give them a call if you want...

[Rust Buster]

My bad...
I must have you confused with someone else who posted pics of them

[Rust Buster]

Well more Rust Bullet came yesterday so I sprayed one more coat of the Rust Bullet and then one good heavy coat of their Black Shell Topcoat.

I finally got to use my new TP Tools HVLP Turbine system and I'm very impressed. There is hardly any overspray and with just minimal thinning with Xylene, it laid down a great second coat of RB.

The black shell topcoat went on well but dried with tiny bubbles in it in places and some areas didn't have a good gloss to it. The stuff is very glossy and I'm not so sure I like it yet, but time will tell. It is hard as nails though so it seems to be very durable. Very glad I had a good respirator as the fumes are not so good.

I think next time I'll brush on this stuff since the frame is full of too many irregular surfaces and save the gun for the body paint.

I left the inside of the frame the Rust Bullet silver and the outside I painted black. I figured it's dark enough on the inside when I am working on something, so the contrast might be a benefit, and the silver will allow me to see any new rust spots better.

I need more paint for all the other stuff and think I am going to try the PM Industries master series stuff. It is cheaper and people seem to like it. Should I go with their chassis coat which is gloss or try the AG-111 stuff which I can get in a satin? It looks like it is a two part urethane that I have to mix?

Now I can start putting this thing together. I'll probably spray some simple rustoleum on the new leaf springs.

Motor mounts. I have a set of replacement stock rubber ones, but is it worth it to go with the poly ones or is it overkill?

Then to the rear disc conversion for my 14B FF. I'm going to go with the JKWoffroad.com caliper bracket and then buy the 77 Caddy calipers and 78 3/4 pickup rotors. The blackbird kit looks great, but the JKW one lets me do it on the cheap.

What do you guys think?

[msgross]

two tone frame? hmmmmm not sure that I like it but it's up to you....

I used that master series paint and am pretty happy with it... It is very glossy as well, I would try a quart of the satin that has the UV protection.... Did you see my frame on their website?

That HVLP thingy looks pricey.... I'm hoping to get my chassis rolling on Friday and back home Sunday...

[Rust Buster]

Yeah I guess it is two-tone...
I did see your frame on their website, hope you're getting some royalties!
The HVLP system wasn't bad at all, got it half price through their ebay store as it was a scratch and dent item, but I haven't found where the damage it.

[Rust Buster]

I haven't posted in a while but I've been picking away. Frame is fully painted.

Put the rear leaf springs in with polyurethan bushings and ORD's shackle kit. It is a beefy unit. Since I don't have a shackle flip, I essentially lowered the truck a half an inch, but with the new springs I probably came out even. If it is noticable I can just make up for it with some thin blocks.

They ended up giving me the wrong front leaf springs, so that stalled progress last weekend but one trip back and we fixed it. Also put ORD's front shackle kit in. Pretty impressive stuff they sell.

Now that they are all in, I'm cleaning up the D44 and 14FF in back. Once they are painted they'll go in and then it's time for the rear disc conversion and prepping for the drivetrain. I'm sick of making messes, so hopefully the clean building will start...

[msgross]

How much did the rear shackles run? I would do their zero rate leafs if you need to gain an inch. Like a block but it bolts to your leaf center pin....

I used those same front shackles and noticed how beefy they are...nice stuff. Why the rear shackles?

As for royalties, well.. they sent me a free bottle of their Jet Hot header coating for sending in my pictures... works for me.

[special-K]

Deja Vu!I could swear I saw this before you ever posted it.I even smelled it.Sniff sniff...nope can`t smell it here.Mike,i think your truck`s got a kissing cousin here.It`s nice to see two classy 4wd restos going on here at the same time.

[msgross]

big difference in our trucks though Tim, he is a single captain and i'm a married captain with three kids! That means that his truck will get done this year and have more gadgets on it (383, lift, TBI)....

This is a nice build that you have going though. I just looked back through your pics and it is cleaning up nicely. You did start with a better thruck and it shows in how fast you are making progress....

[Rust Buster]

Although I am a capt, the student loans that got me there are almost as large as a mortgage!

I've been following your build closely and it looks awesome. It was nice to meet Tim this morning as well, and he's got a nice truck too. We're definitely the minority on here having 4x4s.

I'm going to look into the zero rate springs. I went with the rear shackles because mine were completely rotted and there was hardly any difference in price. I wasn't thinking with the lowering though, thought it was going to add half an inch...