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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Benson-ish, NC
Posts: 325
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2 Questions
I just finished installing new coil springs and shocks on my 72. I have a little bit of play in the steering, any idea what I could change to tighten it up?
I also just finished putting new weather stripping on both windows. The only thing I haven't replaced is the trim at the base of the window. To do this, I think I need to remove the panel, but I can't figure out how to remove the door handle. I see a clip on the inner portion of the window handle, I'm assuming it'll come right off when I remove the clip? If so, is the door handle the same? On a side note, thanks to the members posting pics here, the front coil spring replacement was VERY easy. Took about 2 hours but now that I've done it, I could easily do both sides in an hour. If anyone has any questions about changing theirs out, feel free to ask. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Northern AZ
Posts: 7,271
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Re: 2 Questions
Was the steering sloppy before the springs, if not check everything to be sure you got it all tight. Slop in steering is usually tie rods or ball joints. As for the clips, there is a tool for them can be bought at autozone or the like for $10-15. good luck lets see picts!!
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#3 |
Restoration Desperation
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 373
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Re: 2 Questions
I assume by "play" you mean slack over 1/4 inch when truning the steering wheel back & forth? Haven't had to do it on a my Chevs, but this was how i did my CJ. There should be a bolt/nut combo ontop of the steering box. Loosen them up and then turn the bolt clockwise screwing it into the box. I would jack the front end up and have someone work the steering back & forth while you adjust the bolt. Once its where you want it, tighten the nut underneath the bolt. Just don't over do it. If it won't take the slack out, you will need a new steering box or a rebuild.
You mean they make a spring clip remover...?? I always just use a small curved screwdriver...lol! RD |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 421
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Re: 2 Questions
Ditto on what Motor7 said. Just tightened the same on my 68, took all the slop out. And this might be ghetto but I normally use a butter knife that I bend to remove the window/door handles. Just slip it down in there till you can catch the clip and push it out. Note, close the door so the clip stays inside and not somewhere in the yard. (My wife is all the time complaining about "where are all my butter knives going to"), I dont know.............
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Benson-ish, NC
Posts: 325
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Re: 2 Questions
Good info guys. Yep, it's the looseness when turning it left or right. It was happening before I upgraded everything. I'll see if I can adjust it out. Thanks.
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#6 |
chrome makes it go FASTER!
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Cleveland Tennessee
Posts: 2,884
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Re: 2 Questions
I just use a small screwdriver to push out the clips. I have metal door panels, so I stick a magnet to it right below the clip. Most times the clip falls right to the magnet.
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: 2 Questions
my standard answer for changing springs is change the balljoints and tierod ends to avoid doing the job and wheel alignment twice
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#8 |
Old Skool Club
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas"
Posts: 10,880
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Re: 2 Questions
The clips that hold the handles on are easily removed with the cheap sheet metal tool that most parts houses sell. I have also heard that you can take a shop towel (for instance) and use it to pop the clips off. The fun part is is figuring which side of the handles they're on to remove them.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: northwestern wi
Posts: 2,111
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Re: 2 Questions
as for the play in the stearing have somone turn the wheel back and forth just enough to take up the slop while you look ounder it to see where the slop is. to remove the door handle clips i just bend the end of a piece of wire to make a little hook to pull them off
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#10 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Re: 2 Questions
Over the years, a great majority of the steering slop I've found has been the idler arm being worn.
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: woodstock, alabama, usa
Posts: 938
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Re: 2 Questions
just a note of caution here, be carefull with that adjuster, go easy and make sure it isn't adjusted to far or it will bind, adjust a bit and turn it lock to lock. if its still to loose adjust a little more, if you feel a bind in the steering wheel or some tightness, back off a bit.
bad things happen when the box binds. this is just common sense but it bears saying. good luck !
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#12 |
The Older Generation
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Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Posts: 25,513
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Re: 2 Questions
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I did the "steering adjustment" on an old Dodge truck I had many years ago. I took it out for a test drive and the first time I turned to the right it wouldn't straighten back out and I went through a wire fence and almost hit a tree.... ![]() Just my 2¢ worth. LockDoc
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Benson-ish, NC
Posts: 325
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Re: 2 Questions
I plan on changing the tierod ends and ball joints, but I'm still waiting on the parts to come in. I think I'll change those out before adjusting anything.
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#14 |
laying low
![]() Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Searcy, Ark. USA
Posts: 13,267
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Re: 2 Questions
Good idea...
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