The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1973 - 1987 Chevrolet & GMC Squarebody Pickups Message Board > The 1973 - 1991 Blazers, Jimmys, and Suburbans Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-01-2007, 02:06 AM   #1
Kooter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Poulsbo,Washington
Posts: 24
Lifted Blazer

Do you need to extend the rear drive line for a 4 inch lift? I just had the rear u joints done and had the rear end rebuilt and it still has a clunk when it shifts. I was thinking it could be the driveline banging in and out of the
t-case? Anyone else have this sound?
__________________
1979 C10 Silverado 350/350
3" lowering coils- rear flip kit
Keystone Wheels
Kooter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2007, 08:28 AM   #2
dmkscott
New Member
 
dmkscott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 32
Re: Lifted Blazer

Might be in the U-joints, you can purchase pads that are installed in between the leaf springs and the axle mounting pads (look like a 5degree wedge). They increase the angle the front of the axle housing sits and reduces the angle the u joints are running. I have a 6 inch lift on my blazer and it helped greatly due to the short rear drive shaft and angles.
dmkscott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2007, 09:21 AM   #3
Jonboy
Slots go on anything!
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 5,957
Re: Lifted Blazer

You may also want to space the trans/transfer case crossmember down a little bit as well.
Jonboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2007, 12:07 PM   #4
Zoomad75
K5Camper
 
Zoomad75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Pueblo, CO
Posts: 1,513
Re: Lifted Blazer

Each truck will vary when lifted. My K5 didn't need any driveshaft length adjustments when I lifted it. Mine would chew up rear ujoints like crazy before the lift though. I used a shackle flip which did help in rotating the pinion up slightly and elimintate my ujoint issue.

Go get a magnetic angle finder from sears (under $15). Park the truck on level ground. Crawl under and take a measurement off of the t-case output (rotate the output yoke so it's flat sides are top/bottom). Take the measurement from the topside of the yoke. next, put the finder on the driveshaft and get a reading. Then go down to the axle and make sure the pinion yoke has the flat sides top and bottom too. This time measure on the bottom of the yoke.

Ideally the t-case and the pinion should be within 2 degrees of each other. if they are off by more, you will have driveline vibrations. Some get away with shimming the rear only and others have to drop the rear of the t-case down. Some have to do both.

I'd say check first before just shoving a 5 degree shim in at the axle. The natural tendancy under acceleration is for the pinion angle to point up slightly so if you already have it jacked up 5 degrees you could induce more problems than you are fixing. Besides if it needed that much, I'd split the difference and use a smaller 2 or 2.5 degree shim and them drop the t-case down to get the rest.
__________________
Rob Z.
1975 K5 350/465/205/D44/12b 4" lift on 35's- RIP
1991 K5 8.1L/NV4500/241/D44/14b FWC Camper
Zoomad75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:56 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com