Suburban Lift

[Bob Chayer]

I am looking out the window now at 30+ inches of snow. Looks like it may be time to start the '71 Suburban project early . I would like to lift the ol' Sub a few inches and add some larger tires and running gear from a 72 3/4 ton. I'm looking at 2" to 6" lift and 33" to 35" tires. The 3/4 ton has, 4.10 gears, a 350, sm465 and a 205. 69,000 on the pick-up drivetrain but not much body left.

Any input would be great.

Also, if anyone could provide some pictures of a lifted Sub and info such as amount of lift and brand, tire size and brand, wheel size and brand and problems encountered that would help in the project.

I haven't seen too many 3 doors with lifts so I'm kind of working blind.

Any of you guys like to wheel your Subs?

Thanks to all!

[Mike C]

With the 4.10 gears in the K20 parts, You can get away with either 33 or 35 tires. If you had 4.56, I wouldn't even THINK about going less than 35's. With that said, 4" lift and 33's on my Jimmy I thought looked daffy. I went to 35's to fill up the wheel wells. Be forewarned, 35's might rub with 4" depending on wheel width and offset (I would run 16" wheels and NOT 16.5 315 75 16 should be ~ 35" tire) For a truck I drive quite a bit I would do the 2 1/2" Skyjacker softride kit with springs and 33's. UNLESS I had axles with 4.56 gears in which case 35's seem mandatory. The truck looks the best with 4" and 35's. Mine does not rub on the drivers side front, but it does on the passengers, BUT the passenger front fender is not the right shape. It was damaged in an accident before my dad originally bought the truck (1977) I trimmed a pie piece off the front of both quarters, about 3/4" thick at the bottom and tapering to 0" about 4" up. I think 6" of lift is a bit much for drivability and ingress/egress. Unless maybe you are 6'6"? I'm 6' and use the roll cage as an easy handle. But you probably don't have one of those... Whichever way you go, do NOT be cheap and get a lift without rear springs. I bent my axle perches and had to remove the housing, straighten the perches, and attach braces. AND then I had to buy springs. No lift will ride as smooth as stock, so be prepared for a rougher ride, but nothing like the 104" wheelbase of a Blazer/Jimmy. So get the kit with 4 springs and the steering arm as you will need correction at that height. I did not have to mod my driveshafts for the 4" lift, but I did go to a CV equipped rear driveshaft because of angle issues. Once again, with 127" wb of a sub, that should not be much of an issue. So, to summarize, I would do the 2 1/2" Skyjacker lift kit (or 4"), BF Goodrich 305 75R16 (or 315 75R16 for 35's) mud terrains on either MT classic, Alcoa, or Weld Super Singles for wheels. 16x8 are a LOT cheaper than 16x10 and should net you a little more clearance on the sheetmetal in the front, but they MIGHT rub the leaf springs, but that's no biggee as far as I am concerned. I know they are expensive, but you get what you pay for...

[Bob Chayer]

Mike,

Thanks for the insight. I didn't even think of the drive shafts. The front should be good but I now think I may have to have one made for the rear. 3/4 ton ujoints are larger...however the wheel base of the PU and Sub are very close in length any ideas? teeit up has a Sub with the lift you describe and 33s...looks great and the power should be in the right spot. but 35s.....that's tempting.

It will be driven quite a bit to far away lands (last year we went to the arctic circle and ran into some nasty roads!)

Anyone know of a locker for the Eaton rear end?

Thanks!

[Beast388]

Here is my "3 door" with a Rough Country 4" all-spring lift. I have 32" BFG MT's on 15X10 wagon wheels. I had to lengthen my rear drive shaft, but not the front.

Future plans include 3/4 ton axles, 4:10 gears, 35' Swampers and Detriot Locker for the rear.

Good luck on the Burb build up, keep us updated with pics!!

[sakohntr]

Go with a 6 inch and 35's. You'll be kickin yourself later if you dont. It is the same price and looks even "gooder". I used to have a lifted suburban i plowed snow with. Man it was unstopable. wish i had that rusty heap back. As far as the eaton, some people dont like em and finding a factory no spin takes a bit of luck. According to "D Passmore" (board member) you can still buy a new locker to fit inside. good luck

[Beast388]

Here is "poser" driveway pic. The 32's look way small, 35's will be a huge improvement.

[72MARIO]

I think the rear end I have is a factory Eaton rearend from a 71 C20 4:10 or 4:11 gears No spin rear axel is the code on the glove box what are these things worth ? They kinda look like a ford 9 incher right . 10 bolt s hold it together. Have any pics of a eaton ? it could be for sale.

[Mike C]

There are not a LOT of drawbacks to the 35s, but they are more noticeable than the 33's. They are heavier, cut more gear ratio, and "wiggle" a little more because of the added sidewall. Every inch hihger you go, you reduce fuel economy because of more air rushing along the "dirty" (aerodynamically) undercarriage. If you have to buy wheels anyhow, maybe a 17" wheel and 35" od tire? But without an OD trans, the 35's will be almost neccessary for long trips. I assume your 1/2 ton 'burb has 3.07 gears? I went from 3.07 to 4.10 and the 33's, then to the 35's. I turn about 2600 rpm at 60 mph, or about 10% more than with the 3.07s for a 3.30-3.40 something effective ratio with the 35's. Add 200+/- rpm for the 33's. The 'burb and the truck should have the same wheelbase. I think the aftermarket 4" springs actually move the axle slightly forward so that driveshaft mods will not have to be made, but that causes the fender interference problems. I pieced my lift together from a combination of a Rancho 4" lift and National 4" rear springs with a ProComp Explorer 4" steering arm. I'm running the ProComp shocks as well, I think the 3000 series. I still think that 6" of lift is too much. Requires a stiffer spring to reduce body roll because CG is so high. Carefully consider your usage and all options. Also, remember that auto trans will turn more rpm than manual trans with some combo (assuming no OD and no lock-up converter) because of converter slippage. I like a stiff ride, and with all of your 3/4 ton truck running gear, you may want to get an HD lift kit. Ride can be somewhat tailored with tire pressure (I ran my old 35" MT Baja Belteds with 22 lbs, I run my BFG MTs with 28) just remember thatsway may increaseas presssure decreases. Watch out for advice telling you to "Go big or Go home", quicker than not, your truck will no longer be driveable...