Fuel Tank sender for a 1970

[chrislehr]

I unplugged the fuel cable, and it went from E to past Full. I think that means that the gauge works, and the cable works.

Should I get just a float? Or a whole sender? And how the HECK do you open the top of the fuel tank?

If I am considering a gas tank relo - should I just wait til then or fix the behind seat one?

[eightbanger]

Just did mine and it was'nt that tough to do, start by undoing the nut that connects your fuel line to the sender, then look at the ring around the junction were the sender enters the tank, you will see that it has notches in it you have to tap this ring around anti clockwise until it losens and eventually releases the sender...it holds your sender in place in the same sort of way as a radiator cap fastens ie: push and turn to release, and vice-versa. The only thing is these are prety tight and require persuading...gently tap at each notch in sequence untill loose ( try not to make any sparks).

I replaced the entire sender on mine, it was worth it just to be sure, though I new that the resitor on mine was fryed, that gas tank relocation is the way to go something I really want to do but I know it's a ways off so having a working gas gauge for now is good peace of mind.

[68gmsee]

I do mine exactly like eightbanger said but I used a brass drift tool similar to the larger one in here.. http://www.closeout.com/we-may-61360.html

I didn't pay that much. I believe I got it at Sears.

Floats do go bad and corrode and if you find out that that's whats wrong, I'd replace it and the filter. Some guys rig up their own internal filtering and some just do away with it altogether and place a good inline filter...

One thing to remember is that the sending unit is a flimsy wire wrapped around a non conducting material inside the metal cannister. The contacts that ride on this wire are flimsy and can break. Also crud can build up in there. It's very delicate so don't be surprised if you wind up having to replace the whole unit.

[northerngmc]

Great article here on how to test the sending unit.

http://www.6066gmcguy.org/Electrical-02.htm

[chrislehr]

Awesome link and thanks for the write up 8banger - will likely just buy a new unit sometime this week for it.

Then, its on to the temp gauge.

[bartstoy]

Would definitely replace the entire unit, especially if it's still original. My unit also came with a new gasket. Makes good sense to use non sparking tools also.

[LockDoc]

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You can get a new sock filter for the end of the pickup tube at your local Chevy dealer. The part number is 5651705. It is just listed as a "filter"...

LockDoc

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by chrislehr

Awesome link and thanks for the write up 8banger - will likely just buy a new unit sometime this week for it.

Then, its on to the temp gauge.

I agree on the link... I downloaded the page to my Truck folder for future reference..

Just as an FYI: The reason I mentioned fixing yours if it's in good condition, is that I've gotten two replacements since I've had my trucks that I've had trouble with and had to replace again. One of them lasted about 2 yrs and gave out and the other one had erratic readings a few months afterwards.
Hopefully, they're better quality now...