Drag and Destroy rebuild

[joe231]

looking good and.....HOLY HELL!!!
man that sucks

[joe231]

don't see any pics of the york??

[kdrodworks316]

I will get you some pics of the york Joe, give me a day or 2.

[Super73]

KRD,

I have a question for you.. Why aren't people running a 3 link in bagged set ups? Typically when you have a 4rth link you have more binding going on under bump or if you drop one bag. Is here a reason people don't run a 3-link with a Watts link or a pan hard bar?

[jonzcustomshop]

Why Did they cut the firewall and floor so bad?

[joe231]

Originally Posted by kdrodworks316

I will get you some pics of the york Joe, give me a day or 2.

cool, no hurry, thanks

[kdrodworks316]

Originally Posted by Super73

KRD,

I have a question for you.. Why aren't people running a 3 link in bagged set ups? Typically when you have a 4rth link you have more binding going on under bump or if you drop one bag. Is here a reason people don't run a 3-link with a Watts link or a pan hard bar?

It depends on the geomitry of the 4 link design, I come from monster truck racing and rock crawling, so my 4 links are designed to have massive travel and articulation. I also use hiem joints at both ends of the bar, which means less bind. my new setup will travel 22" up and down with no pinion angle change and minimal wheebase change. after the bags are installed it will only need to travel about 10". I'm not a lowrider guy, so I tend to over build things alittle. I dont think people run 3 links with bags because of the panhard/watts link looks complicated. Even thou its a simple, reliable system it intimadates some builders. I when with a four link because I didn't build the c-notch and rear frame and its not real square, which for a panhard or watts links it needs to be. The 4 link locates my rearend from the stock frame thats more square and no need for a panhard/watts link. Had the notch been square I would have used a 3 link. I didn't redo the notch because I had not planned on a suspesion change when I bought the truck, but thats what I get for looking at it in the dark. You can see from the pictures why I changed. 4 links are quite tough to make them work right because you are dealing with so many angles that have to be right. On monster trucks you are dealing with links that are 6' to 8' feet long. It makes it easier to design with long links because they set thier own angles so to speak. In my truck the links are 20" and 24" and set at 8 degrees on the lower and 45 degrees on the upper. It sounds crazy to anyone who know suspension, But mine works based on axle location, 2" off the drum and 27" off the drum. long links on the lower and short on top. Very stable at speed and travels smooth up and down. I think for this rig, 4 link was the best choice

[kdrodworks316]

Oh boy will you enjoy this....I robbed the tires off of this turd today for my burban, and I never bothered to pop the hub caps to check anything when I got it, and much to my surprize when I did. 6 differant lug nuts on studs that are not pressed in to the axle that were all stripped and cross threaded and spaced out with big nuts. Not to mention the oil soaked brakes. I will post some pics in the daylight.

[soba_03]

COOL I love ENGINEERING.....

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by kdrodworks316

Oh boy will you enjoy this....I robbed the tires off of this turd today for my burban, and I never bothered to pop the hub caps to check anything when I got it, and much to my surprize when I did. 6 differant lug nuts on studs that are not pressed in to the axle that were all stripped and cross threaded and spaced out with big nuts. Not to mention the oil soaked brakes. I will post some pics in the daylight.

Man, it keeps getting better, doesn't it !!!

Is the last of the surprises you think ?

[jonzcustomshop]

check the back bumper bracket for bubble gum

[kdrodworks316]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Man, it keeps getting better, doesn't it !!!

Is the last of the surprises you think ?

I dont dare pop the front caps off to see. I will get the last surprize on this POS, a FOR SALE sign! The back bumper brackets are long gone, or I would check.

[kdrodworks316]

No kidding, this is how it came apart.

[joe231]

w-w-w-wow!

[soba_03]

OHHHHHHH DUDE Top Notch stuff you have there.... I like the Lifetime Brake shoes...... Just be careful on the mountain roads.... It's not so much the stoping potential that is the problem.... it's the fire hazard...

Maybe you should start a thread of what to look for when buying a truck...LOL

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by soba_03

OHHHHHHH DUDE Top Notch stuff you have there.... I like the Lifetime Brake shoes...... Just be careful on the mountain roads.... It's not so much the stoping potential that is the problem.... it's the fire hazard...

Maybe you should start a thread of what to look for when buying a truck...LOL

Dam, what nuck'n fess !!!

[Anthony Fremont]

Wow, what's all that blue stuff? Looks like permatex, surely it's not. I'm doing my brakes now and I "thought" mine were a grimy mess. Thanks for setting me straight.

[soba_03]

Well the blue stuff you see there in the pictures ia actually the grease that they give you so that the brakes don't squeal...... I"m Kidding...I have no idea what it is... I bet those were Quiet though....LOL

[TimE]

Originally Posted by kdrodworks316

No kidding, this is how it came apart.

That's just plain scary!

[kdrodworks316]

Oh it gets better, I pulled the tire off the front, just to satisfy my own curiosity, and its worse. 4 lugnuts on 1 side, 2 on the other. all different sizes, and the lower balljoints are trashed. Thats not the worst, the outer tierod ends are so worn they fall off of the ball! the steering arms are finger tight and not even close to holding anything on. The cab and nose are all lose, as in no bolts holding them on! The air bags on the front are just sitting there, no bolts, nuts, studs, nothing but the airline. Now remember, this was a daily driven truck until I got it. Thats right, this truck was driven every day up and down the highways of Idaho. I am going to abandon this project and start over with a cleaner frame and cab. I can salvage some of this POS, but not much. So much for all of my fancy brackets on the back, off to the crusher you infernal, wore out, chopped up, victim of a wanna be!

[soba_03]

OH.....I'm sooooo sorry to hear that.. Hate to see one go to the scrap pile....

Put it up on the parts board and make a little off the parts... try and recoup some of the cash that you have in it.... Just a thought...

[kdrodworks316]

Have no worries, I will part out as much as I can, I hate to crush them to, But theres just nothing to work with that someone hasent scabbed on.

[soba_03]

TO bad I don't live closer I'd try and snag the dash if it's the original and the coulm off ya... But shipping i'm sure would kill any good deal....

Well now you can focus on the 66...

[kevindtimm]

kd, jumping in very late, but it would seem that a front crossmember replacement (say a 73-87) would solve all your front end problems right away, get it driving and allow you to recoup some of your losses.

or just stick an aftermarket MII front clip on it, to allow a big drop.

Better than junking it since the sheetmetal didn't appear too bad (IIRC)

Again, just my $.02 worth

[slammed1966chevy]

You going to selling the bags and the notch and other stuff on the back ?