Need help with locker

[jfortner]

So I am not sure what is going on so any help would be appreciated.

I have a 71 K5 and put in a Detroit locker in the rear. Used RedLine Gear oil for it. It is a 12 bolt and has a rear disk conversion kit on it as well.

The orginal issue was it seemed to be locking and unlocking all the time and was locked up alot. I added the friction modifer (one tube) the other day and this got much better. But I am still having an issue.

When I am turning corners everything seems to be acting normally except when I push in on the clutch (as I am turning) it sounds like the transfer case is banging into the floor boards. It isn't and I am sure it is a combination of u-joint slop, and transfer case slop but it is like the system is binding up and then releasing again. And it just does that until I stop, turn the wheels straight, or let the clutch back out.

Is this normal? If not what is going on and how do I get rid of it before I tear up something?

I heard adding a second tube of friction modifer may help, but am leary of trying that as the instructions clearly state not to over add.

HELP...

Thanks John

[74 C-30]

Don't lockers click make a bit of noise when you turn anyways? some of it may be normal but you might still have an issue

[pumpkin]

If what you have is an actual Detriot locker, it does not require anything other than regular gear oil. If your locker reqires an additive then it is a clutch type posi. Detriots have no gears, no clutches, just square cut gears that lock togeather. If this is the style you have then there is a problem with the locker, as in a turn there should just be a ratcheting, clicking sound,,,as long as yor not on the power.

[LONGHAIR]

If it really is a "Detroit Locker" there is no need for the additives at all. There are no clutches or anything to slip. It is simply locked (both wheels together) or un-locked, where it releases one to allow differential action.
I should be locked almost all of the time. It only unlocks when turning...and only if you allow it some slack. If you turn under power, it will stay locked.
I would say that your manual transmission is aggrivating this issue. "Pushing the clutch in" gives it slack immediately, so it unlocks. They all make a bit of noise, clunking and banging, and you can sometimes feel it in the steering.

There shouldn't be anything as violent as you make yours sound though. Are you sure that it was set-up right? IIRC there is some adjustment that can be made for internal clearence.

I drove one for years in the rear of a '74 LWB with a 454 and a 4 speed w/ 40" tires. It did it's share of clunking and was a real handful in the winter, but nothing like you discribe.

[jfortner]

So the one I got was a powertrax locker; I think it is nearly idenical to the detroit but not sure.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I believe the problem is that it is locking up as I turn the corner and then when I push in the clutch it starts unlocking and locking and the driveshaft and trasfer case are taking the abuse.

It is locking up nicely and only has an issue when doing a turn. I had it installed by someone else. My next steps were to take it out and see if I could find anything wrong with the install and if not put the orginal back in.

Thanks for the help so far; any other ideas?

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by jfortner

So the one I got was a powertrax locker; I think it is nearly idenical to the detroit but not sure.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I believe the problem is that it is locking up as I turn the corner and then when I push in the clutch it starts unlocking and locking and the driveshaft and trasfer case are taking the abuse.

It is locking up nicely and only has an issue when doing a turn. I had it installed by someone else. My next steps were to take it out and see if I could find anything wrong with the install and if not put the orginal back in.

Thanks for the help so far; any other ideas?

It's not really the same as a Detroit. A Detroit for your axle replaces the entire carrier assembly. Yours replaces the spider gears.

They are known for being noisy.

As long as it locks and unlocks appropriately, as stated by others here, learn to live with the noise. You do have to modify your driving style. Coast around corners, accelerate on straights, etc.

[Mike C]

You don't seem to have much rear axle experience? What shape was the rest of your axle in? Pinion bearings? Any leaks? Did you put the thrust washers in? Did you check your backlash before and after? Anything else changed? What was the condition of your cross shaft?

I've run Lock-Rights in both the Dana 23 in my WWII jeep and the Dana 44 of my M38A1, and they do nothing funny such as you describe, and the manual tranny seems to be no issue.

As noted above, friction modifier should make no difference as their is none. It is either locked or unlocked. For all intents, it is just like a Detroit but not as strong. The locker itself is stout, but the open diff case and cross shaft and OEM axles are not.

Don't know where you are in the world, but maybe somebody with more experience could take a look at it for you? Have you checked other things like driveshaft splines, u-joints on both ends, or axle housing u-bolts?

How about the diameter of your tires? Are they almost exactly the same? Roll-out differences in the tire height can make for big problems with a locker on the street, making it unlock going straight and possibly locking in the turn as you describe.

[special-K]

I had what may be the same problem with a Detroit Locker in a 4spd truck.It clunked and clanked under the seat.It even seemed to slip then grab.This was in a parking lot clutch in or in neutral while turning.I discovered the crossmembers were all loose with bolts missing.I believe the locker resists turning or "torques" the axle assembly as it turns.This was beeing transfered forward and,I guess,was trying to shift the t-case/trans/motor assembly.Once all was tightened down properly it went away.

[kwmech]

I had issues with a detroit in my tow truck. I put some redline hi-shok oil 50/50 with the redline synthetic 80/90 in it, and it took most of the clangs and bangs out of it. Smoothed it out quite a bit