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#1 |
Georgia Boy
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Douglas, Georgia
Posts: 370
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Hey all.. I just aquired a 81 GMC Sierra that my father-in-law gave me. It originally came with a 250 straight six with a TH350C. Now it has a brand new 350/TH350. The truck sat for 4 years before I got it, only being started occasionally. Drove it 40 miles to my house and found a few problems.
First, it has manual brakes.. no brake booster. Gotta pump the pedal a few times to get good stopping power. Also, it darts to the right. Secondly, it has ALOT of play in the steering. It wanders alot. It's got brand new BFGs on it, so that eliminates one cause.. Any help, suggestions? I'll have pics of it up soon. Thanks. |
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#2 | |
Old Heap Driver
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Newport News, Va
Posts: 2,640
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Re: New here, with some questions..
Quote:
Brakes...... I'd bleed them and check for leaking calipers or rear wheel cylinders. You may have a bad caliper on the LF causing the truck to pull to the right. I have manual brakes on my '80, they work fine. You will have to push harder on the pedal but they will stop you just as well as power brakes. Steering....... Make sure all the links are good, ie: tie rods, rag joint, basically all the parts of the steering system. You could have a bad-worn out steering box. I was able to adjust the worm gear in my steering box and it made a big improvement. But, if you've never messed with something like that find someone that knows what they're doing. Good Luck!
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_____________________________ Bryan '99 Silverado 1500, 4.3, 5-speed, reg cab, short bed '50 Chevy 2DR Hard Top, 350/350, M2 Front End, 3:08 gear, cruiser. '40 F**d Sedan, all Chevy power, Heidt's front end, TCI rear, nice driver. |
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#3 |
Old Heap Driver
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Newport News, Va
Posts: 2,640
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Re: New here, with some questions..
Brakes............ On second thought, since the truck sat for 4 years I'd replace the calipers and pads. Calipers for the 73-87 trucks are very inexpensive, it would be good insurance to just replace them.
Also, be sure to pull the rear wheels and drums to check the wheel cylinder and shoes. Again, these parts are cheap. Be SAFE!
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_____________________________ Bryan '99 Silverado 1500, 4.3, 5-speed, reg cab, short bed '50 Chevy 2DR Hard Top, 350/350, M2 Front End, 3:08 gear, cruiser. '40 F**d Sedan, all Chevy power, Heidt's front end, TCI rear, nice driver. |
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#4 |
just can't cover up my redneck
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 11,414
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Re: New here, with some questions..
Having to pump the pedal generally indicates an adjustment issue on the rear shoes. The adjuster wheels stick and the "self-adjusting" stops. A few pumps, you push the shoes out, and they work ok....until you let off for a few seconds. The wheel cylinders work sort of like a hydraulic jack...you only get so much movement per pump. Pump it up and it works, leave it and it bleeds back down. You will probably have to take the drums off and have a look inside. After 4 years of sitting, that's not a bad idea anyway.
It is possible to have an issue with low pedal from the front, but you would probably have a pulsing pedal too. Brake issues can definately cause darting and pulling, sloppy steering makes it worse. |
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#5 |
Spear and magic helmet!
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 1,226
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Re: New here, with some questions..
I second the wheel cylinder. Every time I've had a hard pull during braking, it's always been either a wheel cylinder or a collapsed brake hose on one of the wheels. Both parts are cheap, and I would recommend a preventative brake job anyway.
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-- Will |
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#6 | |
Georgia Boy
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Douglas, Georgia
Posts: 370
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Re: New here, with some questions..
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#7 |
Robert Olson Transport
![]() Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: recent transplant to NC USA
Posts: 20,288
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Re: New here, with some questions..
id check the wheel cylinders too and pop apart the rear brakes and make sure there is lube in the adjusters.. id also change out the calipers in front and the rubber hoses its cheap enough.. id check the front end and repack the wheel bearings and that should give you a good idea as to where youre at
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Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!! |
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#8 |
Manual Transmission Club
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: Grand Junction CO
Posts: 292
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Re: New here, with some questions..
Sounds like the father-in-law is trying to get rid of you.
S10fan is right about the calipers being inexpensive; I replaced mine for $20 ea about a year ago. A friend of mine had a bug that you had to pump the breaks to stop, he swore it was air in the lines but it ended up being a leak. You might look over the lines see if you can find any fluid, even a small leak can steal your power and doesn’t drain you master too fast so it’s hard to detect. If it’s been sitting for four years I’d check all steering and break components and lube the chassis real good.
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79 GMC Sierra Grande, SWB, Heavy Half If I wanted easy I would just buy a NEW truck! |
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