It May Not Be Worth It.

[MacAttack]

Sending bid requests out for rebuilding my 283 this week. If it’s more than $1,200 I’m going for the Mexican (Mr. Goodwrench) crate motor again, like I did for my 65’ Chevelle - last year.

Anybody else ever face this decision before?

[jonzcustomshop]

unless you are worried about numbers, and cubic inches being stock, I would go with the goodwrench 350 if it is cheaper.

[MacAttack]

Yeah - did that on the Chevelle, but retained the ‘283’ for rebuild later. Taylor Engine in SFS, here in SoCal wants $3,600 to put that original motor back in perfect factory shape, which I’ll do eventually - to retain the numbers, for sale of the vehicle.

The SBC from the dealer bases at about $1,600 out the door - long block and everything from the ‘283’ bolts up perfectly. I’ve driven it for 6 months now without any complaint.

[original_balzer]

Sounds expencive on the rebuild it should be alot cheaper than that. For $3600 you should be able to build it way more than stock. A factory stock build would be the cheapest build possible, even replacing pistons and the crank shouldnt drive the cost up that high.

If the machine shop is charging more than $12 a hole to bore and hone it and more than $125 to deck the block and surface the heads its too much.

They Must be charging you labor at some insane rate to get a stock rebuild up to $3600.

parts are fairly cheap
https://secure.pawengineparts.com/sh...art/search.cfm

[MacAttack]

Yeah - that’s for sure. They are a premiere engine builder here in SoCal and have a 2 year/24k warranty on their stuff, but Man, even if it’s $500 in parts - that leaves a huge amount for labor.

Thanks for the source - haven't used PAW in many years. Wonder if I shouldn't just get the basic machining done and build it myself.

[MacAttack]

Just got my first bid in for a total rebuild - decking, align-bore, barrels, honing, new valves, springs, guides - the works: $2,500. Local source. Spoke with a couple of guys at lunch who know him - expensive, but stands by his work - in business for 30 years.

[Fred T]

Thing to do is like you said. Find a good shop to do the machining and assemble it yourself. It takes some time. Good engine work doesn't come cheap.

[283 Man]

Cant beat a 283 they are good motors had mine rebuilt about 6 mouths ago bought the 283 block off my good friend on here 62 shortstep. Cost to rebuild here in NW Arkansas in Fayetteville. guys that done it been doing for over 30 years.Bored the 283 to 0.030over cost was right at $1400 and he let me pay it out in payments tell it was payed for

[HotRodYJ]

The machine work and the labor is the killer. I've been blessed enough to have a Dad with the machinery to do almost all of my own machine work so a rebuild typically costs me nothing but the parts. SBC is about the cheapest motor you can build, period! A word of advice and this is my own personnal opinion based on the 10 or 12 motors I have personnally built and the coupkle of hundred my Dad has built over the past 50 years. You can get a good name brand kit for around $300-350 with everythign in it inclduing pistons, cam etc. You can up the cost slightly by going to forged pistons and a little more cam but all in all around $500 or less should be in the ballpark even with extra bells and wistles. My Dad has a source for parts where we get full name brand kits for about $250. On the machine work, there is absolutley no reason to alignbore the main's unless you mismatch a main cap or spun a main bearing. There is simmply no reason to do it on a normal rebuild. Same thing with decking the block and surfacing the heads. Unless you've had head gasket problems on the motor, the good old cast iron blocks and heads typically don't warp like the newer aluminum heads do and there's no reason to deck and surface typically. ON a newer motor with aluminum heads, those heads need to be surfaced everytime you unbolt them because they do warp almost everytime. On the cast iron block, still don't need anythign done unless you have good reason specifically to do it. So necessary machine work boils down to bore and hone the cylinders, grind and polish the crank, and the head work to grind the valve seats and fix the valve guides. You mention new valves and springs, etc. No reason unless your going with a helthy cam then new stronger springs are necessary but for stock to mld, your old springs will do just fine. No need period to replace valves unless your going all out and payiong the price to go bigger valves or you have some that are bent or burnt past what grinding will fix. Same thing for hardened valve seats. They claim with todays unleaded gas you have to have hardened valve seats or the motor wont last. I'm sure technically that is true, but in reality and in my experience, the ols stock valve seats will last as long as the motor does. I've put as many as 126K hard miles on one of my rebuilds (a 283 actually in a 73 Nova) and never had any issues at all, not even one. At 126K it did tend to use 1/2 quart of oil between oil cahnges, but that's it no other issues at all. Sold the car at 126K on that rebuild and it was still going strong.

Again, just mny opinion and what I have learned over the past 20 years of my own rebuilds, and my Dad's 50 years of experience that he has handed down to me. Everyone has there own opinion.

[ClassicAutoResto]

I agree with HotRodYJ, but we are from smaller areas where labor is cheaper. But as he said antone can buy the kits(and good ones) in the 350-500 range. Around here the machine work including the heads is about 400.00

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by HotRodYJ

Again, just mny opinion and what I have learned over the past 20 years of my own rebuilds, and my Dad's 50 years of experience that he has handed down to me. Everyone has there own opinion.

Outstanding advice, HotRodYJ. Thanks.

[rcrahn]

My son and I are doing a 1967 C20 and we pulled the original 283 & 3 speed. It needs a rebuild and I looked into this question of a rebuild. I estimated here in SJ area it would be about $1800 parts & labor. I also compared the purchase of a remanufactured engine and this was pretty appealing. For $1282 a remanufactured 283 with a 7 year 100,000 mile warranty.
http://www.hiperformer.com/engines/c...gmc_283lb.html
In the end we have elected to go with a modern day motor, either a LQ4 or LQ9. We want more power and to have the fuel injection. These conversions are popular. That will come later for right now we are focused on the body. We are selling the 283.

Good luck with your project.

[MacAttack]

Yep - I can see letting the ‘283’ go. May do the same. Have to check with the dealer to see if I can use it as my core if I go with the ‘Target Motor.’

Got another quote in about an hour ago - machining and parts only - my fit up and assembly: $985.00 - no warranty. I’m going to make my decision which way to go by the 20th.

[MacAttack]

Just got this e-mail:

RE: 65 Chevy 283

Thanks for your inquiry. The cost to rebuild your engine is:

L/B 283 Chevy: $1321.00
Hazardous Waste Disposal: $15.00
Tax: $108.98
Total: $1444.98

The engine includes the following:

New Parts: Pistons, Moly Rings, Rod + Main Bearings, Cam Bearings, Timing Chain and Gears, Camshaft, Lifters, Oil Pump, Oil Pump Drive, Gaskets, Brass
Freeze Plugs.

Machine Work: Block = Clean, Magnaflux, Bore, Deck, Power Hone
Connecting Rods = Clean, Check for Straightness, Hone Big Ends
Crank = Clean, Grind, Chamfer Oil Holes, Micro Polish Heads = Clean, Magnaflux, Pressure Test, Install New Guides and Hardened Exhaust Seats, 3-Angle Valve Job, Mill Bottom, Grind Valves, Set Install Height, Set Spring Pressure, Assemble with New Seals, Vacuum Test.

We will assemble the engine with the timing cover and oil pan installed. After the engine is assembled it will be spin tested. Compression and Oil Pressure will be checked. The valves adjusted. The engine rebuild would take about 1-2 weeks. We would need half the estimate as a deposit. If you have any further questions please email or call me.

Thank You, Eli Eddings
Eddings Engine Rebuilding Inc.

[283 Man]

Thats not bad just almost like the machine shop same set -up as my rebuilt 283 with all thats in your paragraph.anyway best of luck either way you go!

[MacAttack]

I’m going to invest in an HEI distributor and a new harmonic balancer - if I stick with the ‘283’, or if I buy the ‘Target Motor’, so that expense is a wash.

If I buy the new ‘350’ it will need a new intake manifold and carb - setting me back about $450 from Summit, about $700 if I go Edelbrock.

If I stick with the two-barrel and stock manifold on the ‘283’, I think I can pick up about 3-5 mpg over the ‘350’ with the 4-barrel, based on what I’m using in my Chevelle presently.

My current annual mileage is about 10,000 and that extra $600 - $750 a year I don’t have to pay for gas might be nice. I’ll probably drive this rig for another 10 years, at least, and with the way fuel prices are headed - going with the smaller carb. might be better.

[Fred T]

For $1500 I would get the 283 rebuilt. Also, if you have the money, get a good q-jet and performer intake. If you keep your foot out of it, the q-jet will get better mileage than the 2-bbl. The performer intake should give you another 1-2" of vacuum at idle, which means more torque.

When I was a kid we had a 63 wagon with the 300 hp 327, q-jet and powerglide. With over 100,000 miles she still got 18-20 mpg loaded and pulling a teardrop trailer. Dad didn't drive slow, but he did keep the secondaries from engaging most of the time.

[MacAttack]

Thanks Fred - I think I’m going for the rebuild. Good idea on the carb and manifold. I’ve got a small (18’) skiff and I think this motor will be quite enough poop to haul it up the boat ramp.

My truck got ripped off the first week of February (originally having a straight six) and came back to me as a ‘283’ V-8, with a junker 3-speed manual installed.

The original 230 and my T350 auto were laying in the bed when the OC Sheriff busted this fellow and his crew and it took me 45 days to get my truck released from impound.

[greg64]

Originally Posted by MacAttack

Outstanding advice, HotRodYJ. Thanks.

Thanks for your writeup, HotRodYJ. My own experiences and knowledge would line up with yours, but you and your father have considerably more experience than I.

We've probably all read too many magazine engine buildups where they go over the top with machining. Easy to do when you're on an unlimited budget or have a machine shop working for free for the exposure....

[MylilBowTie]

I have heard good things about Eddings Engine Rebuilding.

[MacAttack]

It’s turned out to be a good deal, despite my first engine’s cracks and having to be junked, the second one (out of my Chevelle) turned out really nice @ $1,649.99 for everything - including the tear down, cleaning and mag work on the scrap motor. I would highly recommend these guys to anyone.