New door rubber...can't close doors.. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72gmcshorty · 02-09-2003, 08:52 PM

What do I do? I've loosened the hinge bolts and pushed the door outwards as far as it will go but it still won't close without a lot of pushing. Is this normal? Any tricks? Is there any good glues for these rubbers? I used 3M and it didn't work too well. Maybe the cold weather had an effect on glue? Anyone?

greasemonkey · 02-09-2003, 08:58 PM

I used some Permatex that I bought with the new rubber, it holds really well. You should cut a small notch on the rubber on the doorsill about 6 inches from the back of the cab, that helps keep the moisture out and expels some air when you close the door. Other than that, you will probably have to wait until the new rubber breaks in.

jhow66 · 02-09-2003, 09:01 PM

Fixing to do my 72. Have done others before and used 3M with good results. Did doors on my 65 SWB GMC awhile back and they were hard to close at first--the rubber has to conpress to size--close just fine now. Put your door adjustments back where they were and the will slowly begin to close normal. Good luck.

mikep · 02-09-2003, 09:18 PM

It takes 2-3 months for the doors to close like they used to . I use 3m weatherstripping adhesive.

O'l Buck · 02-09-2003, 11:07 PM

The 3M is good stuff.....you need to follow the directions to the letter to make it work like you want it to. I used weatherstrip from a 91 Lumina APV (same style as the 80's trucks use for weatherstrip)......it pinches onto the rail around the door opening and I glued it in place. Fit's great and seals good.

bobs409 · 02-10-2003, 10:27 AM

Have you tried adjusting the striker plate outwards a bit? When I installed my new seals, I had to slam the doors shut. After about a week of that, I decided I couldn't live like that anymore so I re-adjusted my striker plate and all works great ever since.

Frank_Zeller · 02-10-2003, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by greasemonkey
I used some Permatex that I bought with the new rubber, it holds really well. You should cut a small notch on the rubber on the doorsill about 6 inches from the back of the cab, that helps keep the moisture out and expels some air when you close the door. Other than that, you will probably have to wait until the new rubber breaks in.

greasemonkey

Could you explain this in more detail? I understand cutting the notch, but not the location.

Frank

greasemonkey · 02-10-2003, 01:52 PM

Where the rubber comes down toward the rear of the cab, it takes a curve when it attaches to the lip on the rocker. About 6 inches from the rear of the rocker is where the notch should be cut. I have a manual that I will scan that shows the exact location. I will scan it tonight for you if you like.
John

Frank_Zeller · 02-10-2003, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by greasemonkey
Where the rubber comes down toward the rear of the cab, it takes a curve when it attaches to the lip on the rocker. About 6 inches from the rear of the rocker is where the notch should be cut. I have a manual that I will scan that shows the exact location. I will scan it tonight for you if you like.
John

John

I would like to see the picture in the manual

greasemonkey · 02-10-2003, 05:10 PM

No problem, here you go...I did mine 6" from the edge, but they show it anywhere along the bottom at least 6" from the back..something I did not notice before.

Vince M · 02-10-2003, 08:48 PM

Mine were really stiff after installing. Just give it a while and it will settle in. I think mine was about two weeks. For a while I couldn't lock the doors due to the pressure.

swede413 · 02-10-2003, 10:10 PM

most glues wont work for sh#t if it is below 60 f same with the the rubber, it needs to be warm to mold to the door. You can

A: wait tell summer and try again
B: find a heated garage and leave it in there for at least 24 hrs
C: soften the rubber with a heat gun or hair dryer "you will still need to be in an garage most of the day for this to work.

Hopes this helps Swede413

RON WOODGEARD · 02-11-2003, 12:23 AM

Hey, SWEDE,

How have you been?? Did you ever get those parts on??

I still haven't got mine back on the street yet.

RON

swede413 · 02-11-2003, 01:13 AM

Hi Ron IM doing great here in Pahrumps suburb over the hump but Im afraid I wount be adding any parts to the burb the sad story is in the parts for sale section. but not a week goes by I dont think about the shocks you had for my blazer LOL stay in touch....swede

69 Short Fleet · 02-11-2003, 04:52 AM

Hey 72 Shorty: Id check your striker plate like BoB's 409 mentioned and also check your latches for proper action, I redid mine (weatherstripping and cleaned/relubed my latches) and they close great, Doug

Frank_Zeller · 02-11-2003, 09:49 AM

greasemonkey thanks.....did the operation. Improved door closing quite a bit. With a little more tweaking on the alignment it will be perfect. Think I'm also going to add the vents on the door post like the 71 and 72 have.

02-09-2003, 08:52 PM	#1
72gmcshorty Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: North Delta, British Columbia Posts: 1,344	New door rubber...can't close doors.. What do I do? I've loosened the hinge bolts and pushed the door outwards as far as it will go but it still won't close without a lot of pushing. Is this normal? Any tricks? Is there any good glues for these rubbers? I used 3M and it didn't work too well. Maybe the cold weather had an effect on glue? Anyone? __________________ 1992 Gmc 2wd 1972 Chevy Blazer 2wd

02-09-2003, 08:58 PM	#2
greasemonkey Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Pace, FL Posts: 2,155	I used some Permatex that I bought with the new rubber, it holds really well. You should cut a small notch on the rubber on the doorsill about 6 inches from the back of the cab, that helps keep the moisture out and expels some air when you close the door. Other than that, you will probably have to wait until the new rubber breaks in. __________________ 1942 Master Deluxe 1969 C/10 1985 Blazer CUCV 1987 Jimmy 2004 Tahoe 2005 Silverado 1500 2005 Silverado 3500

02-09-2003, 09:01 PM	#3
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	Fixing to do my 72. Have done others before and used 3M with good results. Did doors on my 65 SWB GMC awhile back and they were hard to close at first--the rubber has to conpress to size--close just fine now. Put your door adjustments back where they were and the will slowly begin to close normal. Good luck. __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

02-09-2003, 09:18 PM	#4
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	It takes 2-3 months for the doors to close like they used to . I use 3m weatherstripping adhesive. __________________ No truck :-(

02-09-2003, 11:07 PM	#5
O'l Buck Recovering Truck Driver Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Orleans, NE USA Posts: 1,883	The 3M is good stuff.....you need to follow the directions to the letter to make it work like you want it to. I used weatherstrip from a 91 Lumina APV (same style as the 80's trucks use for weatherstrip)......it pinches onto the rail around the door opening and I glued it in place. Fit's great and seals good. __________________ 67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska

02-10-2003, 10:27 AM	#6
bobs409 1969 Custom 30 wrecker Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pottsville, Pa Posts: 2,611	Have you tried adjusting the striker plate outwards a bit? When I installed my new seals, I had to slam the doors shut. After about a week of that, I decided I couldn't live like that anymore so I re-adjusted my striker plate and all works great ever since. __________________ Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10

02-10-2003, 01:52 PM	#8
greasemonkey Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Pace, FL Posts: 2,155	Where the rubber comes down toward the rear of the cab, it takes a curve when it attaches to the lip on the rocker. About 6 inches from the rear of the rocker is where the notch should be cut. I have a manual that I will scan that shows the exact location. I will scan it tonight for you if you like. John __________________ 1942 Master Deluxe 1969 C/10 1985 Blazer CUCV 1987 Jimmy 2004 Tahoe 2005 Silverado 1500 2005 Silverado 3500

02-10-2003, 05:10 PM	#10
greasemonkey Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Pace, FL Posts: 2,155	No problem, here you go...I did mine 6" from the edge, but they show it anywhere along the bottom at least 6" from the back..something I did not notice before. __________________ 1942 Master Deluxe 1969 C/10 1985 Blazer CUCV 1987 Jimmy 2004 Tahoe 2005 Silverado 1500 2005 Silverado 3500

02-10-2003, 08:48 PM	#11
Vince M Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,076	Mine were really stiff after installing. Just give it a while and it will settle in. I think mine was about two weeks. For a while I couldn't lock the doors due to the pressure. __________________ ............................................................ 68 Chevy CST SWB w/LS1, carb & 700r4. Golden Anniversary clone with a few improvements.

02-10-2003, 10:10 PM	#12
swede413 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 183	most glues wont work for sh#t if it is below 60 f same with the the rubber, it needs to be warm to mold to the door. You can A: wait tell summer and try again B: find a heated garage and leave it in there for at least 24 hrs C: soften the rubber with a heat gun or hair dryer "you will still need to be in an garage most of the day for this to work. Hopes this helps Swede413 __________________ 70 blazer 350 3on tree 98 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 5 speed manual

02-11-2003, 12:23 AM	#13
RON WOODGEARD Resident Young Old Dude ! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Nevada Posts: 1,948	Hey, SWEDE, How have you been?? Did you ever get those parts on?? I still haven't got mine back on the street yet. RON

02-11-2003, 01:13 AM	#14
swede413 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 183	Hi Ron IM doing great here in Pahrumps suburb over the hump but Im afraid I wount be adding any parts to the burb the sad story is in the parts for sale section. but not a week goes by I dont think about the shocks you had for my blazer LOL stay in touch....swede __________________ 70 blazer 350 3on tree 98 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 5 speed manual

02-11-2003, 04:52 AM	#15
69 Short Fleet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada Posts: 1,086	Hey 72 Shorty: Id check your striker plate like BoB's 409 mentioned and also check your latches for proper action, I redid mine (weatherstripping and cleaned/relubed my latches) and they close great, Doug

02-11-2003, 09:49 AM	#16
Frank_Zeller Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 796	greasemonkey thanks.....did the operation. Improved door closing quite a bit. With a little more tweaking on the alignment it will be perfect. Think I'm also going to add the vents on the door post like the 71 and 72 have. __________________ 69 SWB C/10 5-6 drop 700R4 69 Firebird Convert 455 4 spd 70 Torino GT Convert Austin-Texas



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