383 and 460Le

[CrazyJesster]

how whould thease 2 work together and even with a carb and say like 3.73 gears in the rearend.


see ive got a 400sb punched 60 over so its a 412

the heads are milled 20 thousandths and the crank is turned 20 over.

i bought a lunati Bracket Master II Cam with a 292 duration and the gross lift is 480 rpm range is 2000 to 6000

now its in my 412 i even thought bout putting the 460le behind that motor.

but im thinking really towards selling my engine an building a 383 or even later on building one.

and having that tranny behind it right now i have a 4.11 rearend with a chevy 12 bolt
its just limited slip

im not even sure how this 400 will run who knows it may blow up lol

is it best to buy that $1009 eagle 383 kit in jegs or?? i think it has .30 over pistons comes with rings crank rod bearings and main bearings rods 5.7 inch

ive ridden in a camaro with a 383 and it was very mean i hear talk of them all the time. ive seen what they do at the drag strip too

im even kinda curious to even see what this 412 will do

now a 383 with that 480 lift cam and some vortech heads wonder how that whould pan out ?

[ton*loc]

400 bored .60 over seem like trouble

[CrazyJesster]

well it had a bunch of ware on the cylinder walls when i tore the motor up. like 11 thousandths worth of ware an it was already 30 over. when it was 30 over it never got hot at all never had any troubles.

so it had to go 60 over an i was asking the machineist about this. and he said as long as i have good cooling it will be ok. hes done severl 400s this way and never heard from his customer which was a reg. bout it messing up


i got this motor shortblocked the 400 and not too sure if i want to go fourth with it. i guess i shoulda built a 383 then i got about 1200$ worht of work done to this with block work. head work valves cam etc..

[Rodms]

You better ditch the motor fan and put some good electric fans on it or its going to run hot on the street

[CrazyJesster]

yeah i will put electric fans on it thats one of the goals. the machine shop told me to do that as well


thanks for the tip dude

[piecesparts]

What you might come up against in your quest for HP is a need for a "Stall" convertor on the auto tranny. I have a stroked 385 in my truck with a 700 R4 tranny behind it. The stoplights were murder, because my cam was trying to pull me through the lights. I had to idle up the carb to keep the truck engine running when in gear, so as I transitioned out of the idle circuit, the engine increased the pressure against the convertor. I am now running a 2400 stall on my 700 and the truck works just great now.

For the time that you are going to spend in building the engine, build the tranny with the heaviest parts that you can purchase--you will need it, if you turn that engine loose in a situation. I also am running electric fans and that adds HP and fuel mileage.

[CrazyJesster]

yeah im thinkin of selling my 400sb an building a 383 aint even tried the 400 yet

383s are salty ive got a international scout for parts for sale try an get a good 350 block and heads with the money i get off it

[piecesparts]

Originally Posted by CrazyJesster

yeah im thinkin of selling my 400sb an building a 383 aint even tried the 400 yet

383s are salty ive got a international scout for parts for sale try an get a good 350 block and heads with the money i get off it

Some food for thought, here. If you want to build a 383, I would suggest what a lot of machine shops call a "Heavy Block", when you look for you 350 block. It is an older 350 forging and is noted by the tab in front of the passenger side head (where the ID number is). This tab is longer than the other style block and runs all the way up to the point where the intake mounts to the block. These blocks have more material in their construction and the clearancing of the material works better inside the block. My last two stroker motors were from the mid Seventies era blocks and both were 4-bolt main blocks. Just some ideas to toy with.

[CrazyJesster]

Originally Posted by Rodms

You better ditch the motor fan and put some good electric fans on it or its going to run hot on the street

what re some good electric fans at a resonable price?

[COMP]

Originally Posted by CrazyJesster

what re some good electric fans at a resonable price?

tarus/sable units get great right ups

[CrazyJesster]

i can order them from like jegs and stuff or get them from parts stores here ? like autozone?

[piecesparts]

Look for a good quality fan to get the right amount of air across the radiator. Otherwise, you will dislike the results.

[CrazyJesster]

Originally Posted by piecesparts

Look for a good quality fan to get the right amount of air across the radiator. Otherwise, you will dislike the results.

correct thats why im trying to find out what brand i should buy an such

how many blades the size and stuff

[piecesparts]

Many here recommend using a fan from salvage autos, to save money. I do not know their CFM ratings and that would be more of an experiment to find one that works the best. When I started my search for fans on my truck, many companies listed their applications in how much HP you had in your vehicle. Then I ran into the "Be Cool" guys and they were happy to spend some time discussing the needs of my truck. I purchased their stuff (actually the SPAL fans) and have not had any issues, even on the hottest days with cooling. I will tell you that you want to purchase a good quality HEAVY DUTY relay for the fan that you pick. I did go lighter in my first install and on a very hot day the relay just opened up and would not close until the temps went down. I have seen a lot of really high dollar cars (custom built sitting along the side of a road boiling the water out of themselves. Imagine spending $100,000 and putting in the cheap stuff for cooling. Here is your SIGN.

I am running my 91 Silverado (21,000 mile yearly daily driver) with the stock factory 2 row radiator and a set of dual 11" SPAL fans and a SPAL fan PWM controller. The fans cycle on with an increase in the temp (first one fan and then if the temp gets high enough then the other starts and they both run. The truck runs at the 180 degree temp that my T/stat is and works just great. I live in Kansas and in the middle of Summer (right about now we have 95 degree + weather with humidity that gives 105 to 110 degree Heat Index). Dang even the hood is too hot to touch in the sun.