Voltage Regulator - Is this normal?

[truckster]

My battery went dead, and when I hook up the jumper cables I noticed the voltage regulator clicks. It seems to me that if that's the sound of a solenoid closing, the voltage regulator would be drawing battery power all of the time.

So how do I test the voltage regulator? I haven't had to test one in many years.

If it's a bad regulator, I'll probably just install the internal regulator alternator I have in my garage.

Thanks

[68gmsee]

It's a mechanical regulator. They have relays inside that open and close depending on the charging needs of the battery. If you supect it's bad, the new ones are fairly cheap and most are solid state. I converted mine to solid state some time back and it works fine.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...Stabilizer.JPG

[gcburdic]

Originally Posted by truckster

My battery went dead, and when I hook up the jumper cables I noticed the voltage regulator clicks. It seems to me that if that's the sound of a solenoid closing, the voltage regulator would be drawing battery power all of the time.

So how do I test the voltage regulator? I haven't had to test one in many years.

If it's a bad regulator, I'll probably just install the internal regulator alternator I have in my garage.

Thanks

Hey truckster,

Use this thread from FAQ to wire up that internal regulated alt.....and trash that external one....it'll cost you nothing!!!!!!

[Longhorn Man]

it'll cost nothing after buying a new alt with an internal regulator.

[chevy_mike]

I was running into this as well. Found out the PO had plugged the connector into the regulator in backwards. After plugging it in the correct way, all the problems went away.

It answered the question as to why they had a "kill switch" which would kill all the power to the whole truck. This would keep it from killing the battery.

Check the connector and make sure it is correct. I had to search online to find a wiring diagram which I used to figure this out.

[gcburdic]

Originally Posted by truckster

......If it's a bad regulator, I'll probably just install the internal regulator alternator I have in my garage.

Thanks

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

it'll cost nothing after buying a new alt with an internal regulator.

Hey LHM.....must still be peeved about WSTF.....see the last sentence from his post....

[Longhorn Man]

k, I'm busted.

[prg machine]

The only difference with the external and the internal regulator alternators is where the regulator is. Except!..................the externaly regulated alternators have transistors that are beefier and cooled in the case of the alternator.

The rebuilders told me when i asked if |i should go internal one wire and they just laughed " Only if you want to be techy!" The externaly regulated is bullet proof. If ya have one just fix it. The one wire is also a misconception...............the only good thing about them is there is only one wire to hook up...............it stops there!

Read the articles on mad electric web site.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by prg machine

........... The externaly regulated is bullet proof...........

I guess that's why mine lasted for 40 years. I don't think it was bad when I replaced it. I think I still have the original one somewhere though.

[truckdude239]

cost me 32 buxs to convert over to a internal reg External to Internal Voltage reg. i went though3 after market extrnal reg.s and an alt with no luck then switched tot the internal reg no problems since

[prg machine]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

cost me 32 buxs to convert over to a internal reg External to Internal Voltage reg. i went though3 after market extrnal reg.s and an alt with no luck then switched tot the internal reg no problems since

something must have been seriously wrong with the set up to go through all of those compnents.
these things were built solid.

[19673ontree]

when I was younger I had some car's and truck's with the newer internal regulator type alternator and the HEI distributor's and those were the only thing's that EVER caused me to have to sit beside the road broke down ,
the factory 1960's early 70's alternator and regulator system should be right up there with the best creation's in the automotive world , I have NEVER had one minute's trouble out of one , and they will charge with a piece of string for a belt , the internal one's have to have the belt torqed to 500 foot pound's and then the still sqeal !!
2ND the GM point's type distributor is a mechanical marvel !! bullet proof easy to work on and CHEAP my 67 camaro has had two set's of point's in the last ten year's and that second set is still in the box in the trunk for whenever I need them ,

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by prg machine

The rebuilders told me when i asked if |i should go internal one wire and they just laughed " Only if you want to be techy!" The externaly regulated is bullet proof. If ya have one just fix it. The one wire is also a misconception...............the only good thing about them is there is only one wire to hook up...............it stops there!

Read the articles on mad electric web site.

Hold on there, you threw in a different thing.
"One Wire" and "Internally Regulated" are not the same thing.
A "One Wire" is internally regulated...but it is a newer "Hot Rod" thing.

An "Internally Regulated" alternator actually runs from 3 wires. These are the "common" units that are installed from the factory. They are what they used to replace/update the older externally regulated units.

[68gmsee]

I'm sure cost was one of the reasons Detroit went with internal regulator alternators and mechanical points. Throw in a diode assembly plus some transistors and do away with a lot of mechanical components.

Other reasons could have been the higher power demands of the newer automobiles.

[prg machine]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

Hold on there, you threw in a different thing.
"One Wire" and "Internally Regulated" are not the same thing.
A "One Wire" is internally regulated...but it is a newer "Hot Rod" thing.

An "Internally Regulated" alternator actually runs from 3 wires. These are the "common" units that are installed from the factory. They are what they used to replace/update the older externally regulated units.

No you are definitely right and I am not meaning that they are one and the same................it is just that all of the current trend is to "think" that the one wire and the internal regulated alternators are the cat's meow. They are sold by Summit and Jegs so everyone thinks they are the hot set up for their street machines...................not so!

www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech

check out the articles on the mad electrical web site

[stanglifemike]

I had a chrome 1 wire alt built for me at a local Auto Electric shop. Cost $130 and looks/functions great

[El Jay]

Originally Posted by stanglifemike

I had a chrome 1 wire alt built for me at a local Auto Electric shop. Cost $130 and looks/functions great

Not to get too far off topic.
Personally, I'd ditch that glass fuel filter before you burn your truck to the ground & ruin your whole day.

They look nice & all, but all you have to do is have it break and pump gasoline all over your hot engine, especially if you're driving.

Just my .02.

[prg machine]

If you go to Madelectrical.com and read the articles you will understand why I am trying to point out that the one wire set up is not the way to go unless it is on a tractor that doesn't have lights or accessorys or a drag car.
with the 1 wire set up the aternator only puts out a set voltage and will not "scence" that there is a voltage drop downstream at the headlights for instace, and it will not "know" to step up the voltage.
Don't take my word for it and this is not based on my general "opinion" either, just read the articles and you will undestand what i am saying.