another crewcab swb build

[suicide 63]

heres some with the bed on,i am still on the hunt for a new bed this one has more rust then i want to deal with

[joe231]

looks killer!!
you gonna slam it?

[suicide 63]

alright guys I need some door alignment help myself now.The hinges are nice and tight but both driver side doors are diving down.which set of bolts will adjust this ,the bolts on the door or on the door pillar behind the fender?

[Low84]

Strictly out of curiosity, Is this truck originally from South Texas? Nice progress/project by the way.

[suicide 63]

Originally Posted by Low84

Strictly out of curiosity, Is this truck originally from South Texas? Nice progress/project by the way.

I found it on autotrader.com i bought it fron a wholesale lot out of
Seagoville, TX .It was a one owner truck belonging to a university down there.

[suicide 63]

Originally Posted by joe231

looks killer!!
you gonna slam it?

Yea joe its coming down I just dont know how much or how. static vs bags?Joe i know we have talked about this disk brake conversion in the 60-66 forum and it worked like a charm.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by suicide 63

Yea joe its coming down I just dont know how much or how. static vs bags?Joe i know we have talked about this disk brake conversion in the 60-66 forum and it worked like a charm.

cool deal man!
it worked with the stock 3/4 ton lower arms and the '88 up lower half ton ball joints?

the bolts under the fender and on the b pillar between the doors are the ones you need to adjust to bring the body lines up at the back of the doors

[Low84]

Originally Posted by suicide 63

I found it on autotrader.com i bought it fron a wholesale lot out of
Seagoville, TX .It was a one owner truck belonging to a university down there.

I see, I was mistaking it for one I saw a year back or so.

[suicide 63]

Originally Posted by joe231

cool deal man!
it worked with the stock 3/4 ton lower arms and the '88 up lower half ton ball joints?

the bolts under the fender and on the b pillar between the doors are the ones you need to adjust to bring the body lines up at the back of the doors

I used 88 up upper and lower ball joints,outer tierod ends and brake lines with the stock control arms, Thanks for the reply on the doors

[mike nutt]

suiside63 ,
the truck is looking good. good luck with getting the doors aligned , it took some time to get the doors on joe's truck aligned. i see you went with the saddle fuel tank. which size tank did you use ? anyway , keep up the good work.
mike

[suicide 63]

Originally Posted by mike nutt

suiside63 ,
the truck is looking good. good luck with getting the doors aligned , it took some time to get the doors on joe's truck aligned. i see you went with the saddle fuel tank. which size tank did you use ? anyway , keep up the good work.
mike

I used 16gal tank I plan on getting one for the other side to but i guess i need to replace the switch valve on it, the pump works when testing it but it dies when i switch it to passenger side.As for the doors I thought it wound be as simple as lining the hinges back up to where the bolts were before because the old doors lined up great,boy was I wrong.

[ElGracho]

Originally Posted by suicide 63

...i guess i need to replace the switch valve on it, the pump works when testing it but it dies when i switch it to passenger side...

What do you mean? The electric pumps in the tank are supposed to turn off when you switch to the other side (and the other one turns on). It might be doing what its supposed to do...

[suicide 63]

Originally Posted by ElGracho

What do you mean? The electric pumps in the tank are supposed to turn off when you switch to the other side (and the other one turns on). It might be doing what its supposed to do...

I know the pump is fine but i think the fuel tank selector valve is bad.When i bought the truck and hit the switch to change tanks it died.So when i dropped both tanks I tested the pass. tank pump with 12v and it works. any help with this is great as this is the first dual tank truck i've owned.

[lolife99]

I just noticed the 6-lug wheels! Is that a 4x4 rearend?

[joe231]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I just noticed the 6-lug wheels! Is that a 4x4 rearend?

Originally Posted by suicide 63

It is 6 lug all the way around as of today.I used a 79 4x4 rearend and 88 up spindles calipers 6 lug rotors on the front, so to say 1/2 or 3/4 not really sure.The front rotors are light duty 3/4 ton i left the original springs in because of the 454.The rear is a 1/2 ton 4x4.The reason i went 6 lug is i alreadt had a new set of tires and wheels from my 63 when i bought it.I got a couple doors hung today to.Pics tommorow I promise.

yep

[lolife99]

Sorry. I missed that post.

[joe231]

no problem

[wildmanaaron]

I was doing a tire rotation on a newer Chevy van the other day that had 8 lugs. I noticed how big the rotors and calipers where on the front and rear and wondered how hard it would be to get all of that to work on an older 8 lug Truck of this era.

Just a thought...

[Captkaos]

On the tanks, it sounds like your switch needs to be taken apart and cleaned. Switching it after the pump has primed won't make the one switched to prime, you have to turn it off and switch it again...

[suicide 63]

Originally Posted by Captkaos

On the tanks, it sounds like your switch needs to be taken apart and cleaned. Switching it after the pump has primed won't make the one switched to prime, you have to turn it off and switch it again...

Thanks I will try it when i get the other tank installed

[Captkaos]

When my switch started acting screwing this is what I did;
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/sm...p?topic=6537.0

[manimal]

So let me get this right...the ONLY thing you did to use 88-up spindles is change the upper/lower ball joints and outer tie rods? hows the geometery working? I have been asking about raising the front of my truck and noone sells spindles for our years. Thanks
-Lance

[joe231]

Originally Posted by manimal

So let me get this right...the ONLY thing you did to use 88-up spindles is change the upper/lower ball joints and outer tie rods? hows the geometery working? I have been asking about raising the front of my truck and noone sells spindles for our years. Thanks
-Lance

iirc, you have to use 3/4 ton lower arms for the newer ball joints to fit....

[suicide 63]

Originally Posted by manimal

So let me get this right...the ONLY thing you did to use 88-up spindles is change the upper/lower ball joints and outer tie rods? hows the geometery working? I have been asking about raising the front of my truck and noone sells spindles for our years. Thanks
-Lance

That is correct ,but like joe said you need 3/4-1-ton lower control arms to fit the 88-up ball joint in as far as alignment i have not got it to the alignment shop yet.It looks like it hase some positive camber right now but there are plenty of shims behind the control arm shaft.What i like about this setup is if i ever decide to go to five lug it wil just be a rotor swap up front and axle swap in the rear .I might be wrong about this though on the rear, as i am assuming 5-lug and 6-lug axles will interchange if you get the axles with the same spline count.

[suicide 63]

Well yesterday was another rainout for me(Bricklayer).So i was out hitting up some of my dads old junkyard friends and i came up with a dashpad with just a hairline crack in the center speaker area for my favorite price FREE
I got my power window harness ran under the dash and hooked up, all windows and locks work.My issue is getting the back door harness consealed somehow because my truck does not have any trim in it.All of the picknpulls have suburbans with trim.I know from the rear doors back the trim is differnt than on a crew cab so i dont want to go this route.Any Ideas?

Oh yea The project I sold to finance This one I had plans of a 5.3 swap in it but decided It wasnt big enough for me and my to kids to enjoy.I pced the extreme kit together and painted it myself.So bigblock crewcab it is.