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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 298
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Leaking fuel
I noticed that my truck is leaking fuel. It is coming from the hard line that is on the frame rail. Old and rusty is my guess. I have replaced the rubber lines around a year ago.
I see that classic industries sells steel for $50 and stainless for $90. It looks like the line is 5/16 and a little over 72" long. I checked at a few local auto parts store and could only find lines 69" with flared ends. One of the stores said they could get a 25' coil/roll/spool. My truck is rusty and has lots of holes in it so it really matches the vehicle but I do not think it is safe to drive it this way What have other people used to replace theirs?
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67 K10, lwb, fleetside, 327, 4spd, 205, cab and 3/4 frame swap, 14 bolt, big window, and a "rustoleum roll job" |
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#2 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Re: Leaking fuel
look into it a bit closer, it could just be the short section from the fuel pump to the carb.
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 298
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Re: Leaking fuel
Sorry, I should have been clearer. It is leaking under the cab. Around 0-6" forward of where the hard line changes to the rubber line and then back to the hard line and goes thru the cab floor. At the frame rail, above my transfer case.
The roll/spool sounds like an odd way to get this line but would be cheaper. It just seems like it would be difficult to straighten out.
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67 K10, lwb, fleetside, 327, 4spd, 205, cab and 3/4 frame swap, 14 bolt, big window, and a "rustoleum roll job" Last edited by eric67m; 11-16-2008 at 11:39 PM. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: Leaking fuel
its easy to work with a knee and a good pair of hands
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#5 |
Out of the carpool lane.
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clark Co, WA
Posts: 5,673
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Re: Leaking fuel
It's easy to straighten out and is very pliable, but it won't have any flared ends so you'll need the flaring tool.
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1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten... |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 298
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Re: Leaking fuel
So go with the roll and buy/borrow a flaring tool. I did not remember it being flared, not to say that it wasnt. Would it be single or double flared?
Does it make sense that it would be 5/16 tubing? I measured the OD of the tubing and it is 0.0315"
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67 K10, lwb, fleetside, 327, 4spd, 205, cab and 3/4 frame swap, 14 bolt, big window, and a "rustoleum roll job" |
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#7 |
State of Confusion!
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 46,865
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Re: Leaking fuel
6 cylinders use 5/16" fuel line, V8 used a 3/8" fuel line. If your replacing it and it is a 6, I'd personally go with 3/8".
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: Leaking fuel
dont know why you'd need a flairing tool since both ends you just slip rubber hose over them????
__________________
71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Maria, Ca.
Posts: 1,423
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Re: Leaking fuel
It could be either 5/16 or 3/8 depending on what motor was stock to the vehicle. check the size coming out of the gas tank. The ends don't need to be flared if you use a good quality hose clamp.
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#10 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Cedar Park, Texas
Posts: 7,496
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Re: Leaking fuel
Definitely get that gas leak under control. You don't want to go up in flames. I do not believe any of the lines I have ever taken off were flared. I use double clamps when replacing the rubber. (PARANOIA) My dad is a retired pipe fitter and I remember him saying that they would straighten coils of tubing by hooking it to a come along some how and pulling it straight. I forget how he said he clamped the puller to it, though. I will ask if I remember the next time I talk to him.
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#11 | |
Out of the carpool lane.
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clark Co, WA
Posts: 5,673
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1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten... |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Northern AZ
Posts: 7,271
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Re: Leaking fuel
A small flare is a good idea to keep the line from slipping the hose off. Not under a lot of pressure, but a small -^- shaped flare to seat the hose/clamp against wouldn't hurt. I have used the longest length of brake line I can buy at the parts store, it is 3/8" and pretty cheap?? Then you can attach a female to hose barb and then the hose will stay put?
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