Lucy - My 1968 SWB

[tdave00]

On my drivers side I definitely have to replace the area behind my rockers as well as 2-3 inches into the floor in the front of the cab. I am trying to weigh my options and make sure I get the right patch panels.

I could get this Outer Cab Floor Patch but it doesn't extend far enough into the floor to cover the rusted places that need to be cut out.



Or I could get this Rocker Panel Backing Plate and this RH Floor Board Section.




I have never seen one of these Floor Board Sections up close, so I don't know if it extends down behind the front pillar. Does anyone have any pictures of theirs or know if it does or not? I hate to spend $55 per side for these Outer Cab Floor patches if I don't really need them. I guess I just need to drive up to Southern KY Classics and look at them .

[tdave00]

I went to SO KY Classics yesterday and picked up some patch panels. Should have taken a list with me because I forgot the patch panel for the kick plate and the front cab support . I'll have to make another trip up there.

I came out better moneywise getting this floorboad ($30) and the rear outer cab panel ($18). I didn't know if this was gonna work before I got up there, but once I saw the floor section came all the way down behind the rockers and front pillar I knew it would work.



I also got a set of 5 lug drums from TVBlazer78 when he came to the meet and greet last weekend.



Went and looked at this 700r4 today. Had to bug the pee out of Woodridge (David) a few times to make sure it was what i needed. Going back to pick it up tomorrow. It's a sweet deal .

[tdave00]

Is this the point of no return??

[gcburdic]

Hewy Trai....Oh yeah....no turning back now!!!....are you using that piece of angle iron for bracing??.....That's a good idea!!!...Keep up the good work....

[msgross]

Just be sure to tack it all in and then hang the door to check gaps before make it permanent.

Hey at least it's rust free...

[tdave00]

Yeah, I figured I better tack something in to keep everything in place .

I actually cut out the piece to go back in there after I did this, but it was late and figured I had better come back to it. That's gonna be the most difficult part I think - cutting this piece from my floor patch to fit in there just right.

[tdave00]

I worked on the floor again tonight for a few hours. I got it mocked up. I might have to trim a little more here or there, but it's almost ready to tack in. I'll have to get the door back on to check the rockers too. This is my first time doing anything like this so it's learn as I go and I am taking it slow.

[PHAT TONY]

Sorry if this is too late, but, it's easier to rough-cut the truck,trim the patch panel to overlap, scribe fitment then trim the truck slowly to fit the panel. I think I just confused myself, everyone has their methods, this works well for me.

[tdave00]

Thanks man. That actually makes a lot of sense . I will try that on the other side, so it's not "too late."

[70clone]

im learning to buttweld myself

[tdave00]

Originally Posted by 70clone

im learning to buttweld myself

I think it would be a hell of a lot easier for me if I was using smaller wire and had a gas enabled welder. Hopefully I can finish up this project with what I have though.

[PHAT TONY]

Another time saver is to rough trim new and old enough to get the repair panel laid flush on top, then cut through both at once(screw 'em together if you can). This gives you nice fit and a nice little gap to but-weld and dress smoothly, doesn't work in tight corners etc., but it's the shizznit for fender bottums, door patches and the like.

[MrPhotographer06]

maybe you've got it figured out.... but for the welding (i've never welded before either but i've been trying to soak up knoweldge about welding before i try it.. i've watched and done some tacking and small pieces but my dad was helping me.. )

dont ever weld a straight line on sheet metal,

weld like this
_________
137952486

following the numbers in order.. kinda jump around back and forth so it dosent warp your nice new repair panel. and if your on your lowest setting for temp and still buring through let a little bit more wire stick out of the tip of it and it wont burn as hot



hope it helps!

[MrPhotographer06]

Originally Posted by tdave00

I think it would be a hell of a lot easier for me if I was using smaller wire and had a gas enabled welder. Hopefully I can finish up this project with what I have though.

everyone i've talked to so far with when talking about welders has said to get a MIG/Fluxcore welder.. so if you run out of gas, you can still weld.. but the fluxcore are cheeper so thats what i'll probally get.. the gas blows out the nozzle to ensure you get a clean weld.

[PHAT TONY]

My advice is go for the gas if you can swing it; it's a night and day difference.

[MrPhotographer06]

and yet oh so much greater

[tdave00]

I can't swing it right now. Maybe in a few months though .

[msgross]

It doesn't hurt anything if you have to lap weld that floorpan... Just don't have an inch lap.. maybe 1/4"...

I like to tack it in place, then place tacks every inch/half inch apart... then connect those with a straight stitch welds so that I don't leave any pinholes after grinding...

[tdave00]

Originally Posted by msgross

It doesn't hurt anything if you have to lap weld that floorpan... Just don't have an inch lap.. maybe 1/4"...

I like to tack it in place, then place tacks every inch/half inch apart... then connect those with a straight stitch welds so that I don't leave any pinholes after grinding...

Now you tell me . Just kidding.

I had a hard time filling gaps when I welded in those vent boxes. I read that holding a piece of flat copper behind/underneath the gap would help. Can anyone verify this?

[msgross]

Yep you can do that... copper,brass or something as a backing with low heat and small tacks will fill in holes.

i like to grind it down some and then hold a light behind it to see if any pinholes (or stars!) are showing through. That stitch weld helps a lot but be careful on thin metal not to warp it with heat.

[tdave00]

Sorry for the crappy pictures, but I got it most of the way burnt in tonight.

[BIG HEAD]

Tennessee Dave Double O ???? I love the truck, you are doing it to it. I lived in Nashville for a year (Hermitage) while I went to NADC. I really liked Nashville. Just not the school.

[tdave00]

Originally Posted by BIG HEAD

Tennessee Dave Double O ???? I love the truck, you are doing it to it. I lived in Nashville for a year (Hermitage) while I went to NADC. I really liked Nashville. Just not the school.

My first name is Trai and my last name is Davenport, so that's where the TDave comes from. The 00 I added back in 2000 so that's where the 00 comes from. It just stuck. Nashville is a good place to live. Don't know much about NADC other than it's expensive as all get out. Have a good one.

[tdave00]

I found two of these square tubes in a corner of the garage. I think they are gonna work perfect for lowering blocks after they are cut to length and drilled.

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by tdave00

I found two of these square tubes in a corner of the garage. I think they are gonna work perfect for lowering blocks after they are cut to length and drilled.

those will work. 2.5" down in the back? how far in the front? BTW very nice score. i wish i could find sheetmetal like that here.