SUSPENSION SWAP?

[HAMMERDOWN]

I'M TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT TO DO WITH MY 85 1/2 TON SWB 4X4 (MONEY PIT). I CURRENTLY HAVE: A 12 BOLT REAR & 10 BOLT FRONT END W/ 3.73'S, 350 W/ LESS THAN 20K MILES, 700R4 TRANNY (ALSO LESS THAN 20K MILES) & NP208 TRANSFER, 4" SUSP LIFT, 10X15 WHEELS, & 33X14.50 TIRES. WELL, FRONT END IS TORE UP AGAIN (REBUILT IN 96), BUSTED RING AND/OR PINION, BUT THE REAR IS STILL STRONG. SHOP SAYS MY LOWER BALL JOINTS ARE ALSO BAD & I'M LOOKING AT ABOUT $500 TO GET THE FRONT END RIGHT. VISUAL ON THE LOWER BALL JOINTS SHOW APPROX 1/16" SLACK. HERE'S MY OPTOINS: 1-FIX CURRENT FRONT END @$500. 2-I FOUND AN 82 3/4 TON 12 BOLT FRONT & REAR W/ 4.10'S @$700, BUT WILL REQUIRE NEW WHEELS (8 LUG) AND MOST LIKELY A CUSTOM DRIVE SHAFT. 3-FOUND SOME 1 TON 14 BOLTS W/ 3.73'S THAT ARE CHEAPER THAN THE 12 BOLT 4.10'S (ALSO 8 LUG & CUSTOM DRIVE SHAFT). I DON'T INTEND ON GOING ANY LARGER THAN 35" TIRES. HAS ANYONE OUT THERE SWAPPED FROM A 1/2 TON TO A 3/4 OR 1 TON SUSPENSION? WHAT OTHER MODS/REPLACEMENTS CAN I EXPECT? SHOULD I STICK W/ THE 3.73'S OR GO W/ THE 4.10'S?

[Fast68Chevy]

if you keep breaking dana44 R&P's then its time for dana60 I think, but youd have to also swap rear to dana60 or 14 bolt. id try and find a 1 ton 4x4 parts truck or chassis to swap onto. most 3/4 ton are dan44, and youll have the same problems as now, 1/2 and 3./4 ton dana44 are same except for the steering knuckles

welcome to the 4x4 real world

good luck

------------------
Fleet as of today:
68 C-10 panel- now owned and in possession of GMC Paul
'71 C10 possible project truck, 72 4x4 blazer frame for sale super cheap, 79 G20 van daily driver, parts/scrap '85 C20 burb, parts/scrap '79 Limousine De Ville, etc.
Randy- Lincoln, IL

r68c30@hotmail.com


[This message has been edited by Fast68Chevy (edited 01-30-2002).]

[HAMMERDOWN]

THANKS FOR THE POST FAST68. SOUNDS LIKE THE 1 TON IS THE WAY TO GO. I'VE HAD THIS RIG SINCE 91, AND REPLACED JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING YOU CAN IMAGINE, AT LEAST ONCE. ITS TIME TO START FIXING THE PROBLEMS, INSTEAD OF THE SYMPTOMS. MAKES NO SENSE TO PAY $500 EVERY 4 OR 5 YEARS, WHEN I CAN PAY 1K AND PROBABLY NEVER WORRY ABOUT AGAIN. WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE 1 TON W/ 3.73'S WITH MY TIRE SIZE?

[MJN]

If the front end is the GM corporate 10 bolt then I can understand why you keep busting stuff. Those axles are the weakest one in GM trucks. Try a Dana 44 front if you want to save a little money. Our '72 Blazer has 35x12.50x15" tires and it has never broken a front end. Has 12 bolt posi rear and a Dana 44 front. Good Luck.

[This message has been edited by MJN (edited 01-30-2002).]

[GMC_Legacy]

id recomend not just looking at whether is it 3/4 or 1 ton. look more into the shape of the axles and the life they have had. it adds up very quickly as we all know when you get to replace every seal, bearings and through on new brakes just to get the truck back on the road. also, with that 1 ton axles, is the front a HD Dana 44 or an actual Dana 60. I upgaded my whole drivetrain from 1/2 to 3/4 ton, including the tranny, the only problem i can see for your setup is the difference in u-joint size in your driveshafts. your tranny is going to want a smaller u-joint verses your axles.

good luck

[HAMMERDOWN]

For MJN, yes my current front end is the corporate 10 bolt, and yes, I agree on the weakness. GMCLegacy, so you've done the 3/4ton swap, aye? Well, the suspensions on the 3/4t truck I've found seem to be in pretty good condition-no chips on the R&P, and not much slack either. I couldn't tell on the axles, but will try to get a better look next trip to the salvage. They are both 12 bolts w/ 4.10's off an 82 rig. Looks like the ball joints need replacing, but still, could go w/out. By the way, how much slack means ball joints are bad? I've been told if there's any at all. I'm already dealing with a funky u-joint on the back (my current 12 bolt rear is off a blazer), so hopefully, I could find an adapter u-joint. What tranny have you swapped to? Did you have to customize driveshafts? Will my 1/2t u-bolts work with the 3/4t? I've been told the 3/4t swap is easier, and much more economical than the 1ton. What I really need is a beefier front end to accomodate my 15x10 wheels w/ the 33x14.50's. I'd eventually like to put 15x12's w/ the 35x17.50 MT's. Wants and needs, wants and needs.....

[GMC_Legacy]

dirveshaft wise, your front will be the same if you purchase the 3/4 ton, which will be either another 10 bolt, just with 8 lug outers, (which as you know may not make much sense) or it will be a dana 44 8 lug. either way, they use the same yoke on the diff. your front driveshaft is set...but....your rear may be different. does that 208 t-case have a slip shaft or an actual yoke for the rear output. either way it should work, just depends what dirveshaft you use, whether it be your original, or the one from the 3/4 ton. either way you should be able to find a u-joint that will adapt between the two sizes, if not spend the money and get one made up for you if you are sure you like the 700r4/208 combo. not to rat on ya, but it isnt the greatest wheeling combo out there, although you cant beat the first gear ratio. also you may have to do some adapter seaching for brake lines in the rear. some years where the same, but i know on my 14 bolt out of a 73 3/4 ton, my wheel cylinders used a different diameter line verses my old 12 bolt rear. no biggy, just another thing to add to the list-o-parts.

[bowtietd]

If you can find a dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear you will not have to worry about breaking parts. Eight lug wheels are in your future but you need to decide if you want to go 15" or 16". 15" wheels hold the bead much better at low tire pressures but with a dana 60 front you have to modify (grind) the calipers to fit. You will need new U bolts for both diffs as well as the plates they bolt to. The dana 60 front uses a plate on the right spring and depending on the thickness of the spring pack you have you may need to make some spacers -- no big deal.The front shaft is a bolt in. Rear shaft should fit but will need a hybrid u-joint available at any auto part store. There are two different 14 bolt rears.You need one out of a 3/4 ton or you will have to cut and move the spring perches. The 1 ton frame is narrower and the perches will not line up with your 1/2 ton setup. Other than the size of the brakes and perch location the 3/4 and 1 ton 14 bolts are identical. Be prepared to cut off and relocate the rear shock mounts on the 14 bolt housing. I have done this swap twice and would be glad to e-mail pics. Hope this helps.

[loenuf]

i have a 86 4x4 1/2 ton, and i coverted it to 3/4 . everything is 3/4 ton, exept the frame..its no big deal. if you have another truck to drive during the swap, that will be a plus, that way you can take your time and do it right.......