BBC Chevy 454 and what tranny?

[vegaschevy]

Well I picked up my first part of my build (my 71 cab) and have a rolling chassis that will be shipping to my house from indiana in a few weeks.

Time to start getting a motor started and get an idea of what direction i need to go to reach what my goal is.

I really was debating between a SBC and BBC and well a BIg Block won.

On to the build. I want a goal of around 500 HP give a few extra LOL I am guessing the best way to do this is to purchase a bare block and have a machinist work on it to get it in perfect condition.
What list of parts from start to finish (im probably starting with a bare block and will need to finish it off with a carb to run) would everyone recommend to reach my goal? I have read and many said a 496 sroker kit. I am going to drive it on the street quite a bit and of course at the track just as much. Im not gonna say money is no object but I would like to make sure I am getting a quality reliable BBC.
Also what would be a good tranny to put behind this motor?

any and all help would be awesome!! Also what is a good price to pay for a 454 block to get done up? i know 4 bolt mains anything else to look for?

[kwhite4]

If your going to build one then make sure you get a good rotating assembly to start with along with a good pair of heads. You could build a mild bbc thats setup for nos that way you can ride around town and still be fun at the track. As far as the tranny unless you want 5 or 6 gears I would use a turbo 400, not hard to install and strong enough for most anything if its built right.

[vegaschevy]

Im building a vortech 454. I fond a member of htis board who has one with a spun bearing which is no big deal since I will be building a stroker anyways.

anyone do this? how much HP and what parts?

[chevybuldr]

I wouldnt go with a Vortec. Everything on them is different. Weaker castings. Yea they are 4 bolt but you can stud a 2 bolt for what you are doing. A good crank and rods. Pretty decent price from say SCAT or eagle. Even OHIO has some decent stuff. A nice cap screw style rod and a piston that does not weigh a ton. Then invest in some heads. Again I would stay away from that late model motor. Early motor is thicker and stronger and parts interchange. Just my 2 cents. Talk to 454HO he built one also.

[Rodms]

Originally Posted by vegaschevy

Well I picked up my first part of my build (my 71 cab) and have a rolling chassis that will be shipping to my house from indiana in a few weeks.

Time to start getting a motor started and get an idea of what direction i need to go to reach what my goal is.

I really was debating between a SBC and BBC and well a BIg Block won.

On to the build. I want a goal of around 500 HP give a few extra LOL I am guessing the best way to do this is to purchase a bare block and have a machinist work on it to get it in perfect condition.
What list of parts from start to finish (im probably starting with a bare block and will need to finish it off with a carb to run) would everyone recommend to reach my goal? I have read and many said a 496 sroker kit. I am going to drive it on the street quite a bit and of course at the track just as much. Im not gonna say money is no object but I would like to make sure I am getting a quality reliable BBC.
Also what would be a good tranny to put behind this motor?

any and all help would be awesome!! Also what is a good price to pay for a 454 block to get done up? i know 4 bolt mains anything else to look for?

So you canned the 383 huh?If you want 500 hp on the street you a 5 something ci.

[djracer]

A pump gas 496 with a decent head should be pretty strong. I too would stay with a gen 4 motor. If you get a mid to late 80's 454 it should be already clearanced for a 4 1/4 stroke. My buddy has one in his malibu.

[vegaschevy]

I have been told that a vortec 454 block is the way to go if I am building a motor up. THe heads are pretty damn good and everything else is interchangeable except for the fuel pump I believe.
Why is it not as good? Where does it lack?

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by djracer

A pump gas 496 with a decent head should be pretty strong. I too would stay with a gen 4 motor. If you get a mid to late 80's 454 it should be already clearanced for a 4 1/4 stroke. My buddy has one in his malibu.

THat is where I am headed, a premium pump gas 496 build. Nice set of heads, cam, everything.
I just need to know what parts work well together and what I should be getting.

[BossHogg69]

It would help tremendously if you had some budget guidelines to go by! What kind of cam do you want to run? Roller? flat tappet? Aluminum heads? Iron? You really need a budget first, then it will be easier to helop you pick the parts that fit your goal and your budget. You can spend $6000 easily on a ground up big block build, so what are you wiling to (realistically) work with?

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by BossHogg69

It would help tremendously if you had some budget guidelines to go by! What kind of cam do you want to run? Roller? flat tappet? Aluminum heads? Iron? You really need a budget first, then it will be easier to helop you pick the parts that fit your goal and your budget. You can spend $6000 easily on a ground up big block build, so what are you wiling to (realistically) work with?

That is why I asked for help to get an idea of what build components. My goal is 500+ Hp which is doable with a 496 stroker or whatever is recommended and 5k or so

[BossHogg69]

Why not do this? I know it's not a GEN VI, but it is a ready to run 496, and right around your budget.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLL-BP4960CT/

It's only 20hp shy of 500 and leaves no guesswork... If I didn't already have a big block when I started my build, I would've gone this route or something similiar. Mine's a Mark IV, and I could list the parts I have, but if you're dead set on a Gen VI and the Vortec BB heads, then the cam/valvetrain will be different. (mine's flat tappet, GEN VI are roller)

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by BossHogg69

Why not do this? I know it's not a GEN VI, but it is a ready to run 496, and right around your budget.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLL-BP4960CT/

It's only 20hp shy of 500 and leaves no guesswork... If I didn't already have a big block when I started my build, I would've gone this route or something similiar. Mine's a Mark IV, and I could list the parts I have, but if you're dead set on a Gen VI and the Vortec BB heads, then the cam/valvetrain will be different. (mine's flat tappet, GEN VI are roller)

I am not dead set on new or old. What is better and why? That is what I wwnt to go with

[BossHogg69]

You'll hear opinions from both sides, but I would go with the Mark IV style, it has been around waaaaay longer, cores are more abundant, and it you can do it cheaper, since you can use a flat tappet cam and still hit 500hp. If you find a decent core, with a useable crank and rods, you could easily build a 454 with 500hp, eventhough I know you said you want a 496. Check this out, it may help give you an idea of what's doable.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...evy/index.html


http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ine/index.html

I didn't even realize it, but the parts I have are pretty close to the build in the Car Craft article - here's what I have so far:
2.25/1.89 Edelbrock RPM Aluminum Oval Port Heads (big valve marine version)
Comp Cams 278 Xtreme Energy Cam (234/244 Duration @ .050",.564/.570 lift)
Comp one piece hardened 3/8 pushrods
Comp Roller Rockers, 1.7 ratio
Cloyes Hex-a-Just Billet timing set
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap oval port intake
Holley 870cfm Street Avenger Carb
I'll have to wait until I get the motor apart to see what I'll need in the bottom end, but my plans are to reuse the crank and rods, and hang some Speed Pro -18cc dome pistons on them, which should get me around 9.8:1 compression or so. My goal is 525hp, and 550ft/lbs, but I'll be happy if it makes more!

[vegaschevy]

Well I have picked up a Gen VI 454 block that will be headed ot the machine shop once I get my 496 stroker kit.
I am guessing I should be going with a forged crank any recommendations?
Also should I have my heads picked out as well before ordering a stroker set up to be sure I get pistons that will correctly work with the heads?

[BossHogg69]

Most of the stroker kits come with a cast crank, which is fine, since a properly prepped cast crank will handle well over 500hp (more like 600-700). As long as you have good steel rods and ARP bolts and use hypereutectic or forged pistons, as most kits come with, you'll be fine. I know the Eagle stroker kits come with cast cranks, steel rods, hyp. pistons and run around $1600 from Summit for a GEN VI motor.

Now, on the heads, since you don't have a set already, I would by a new set of aluminum heads if it were me (and I did). I'll get blasted for this here, but in my opinion, if you start with a factory casting, you'll have to pay to get them cleaned, checked, buy springs, seals, maybe some valves and then have the seats prepped, and have everything set up. Plus, you'll still be running stock sized (small) valves. With a new set, you can bolt them up and go, get 2.19/1.88 valves and the springs already set up to go, and you'll have a platform to make more power in the future if you spend the money now on good heads.

[chevybuldr]

I know I will get flogged here on this.

whos head did you buy? You can not just take them out of the box and bolt them on.

[BossHogg69]

I bought a set of Edelbrock marine heads.

I know where you're going with this, but he'll have less work to do buying a set of new heads than having stockers rebuilt.

[chevybuldr]

I would really suggest that you have them taken apart and everything checked. We have done more then a few and clearances were not really up to spec. Guides way to tight and the head gasket surface was out. Also very wise to have the springs set up to YOUR cam. I know they say out of the box ready to run. Think of it as cheap insurance. Few hundred to check them all out and set them right or couple grand to fix your baby that you just finished. Its just not worth it.

[BossHogg69]

I don't disagree with that one bit, my point was just that the parts are already there and brand new rather than reviving a set of old heads that you'll completely have to go through anyway.

[chevybuldr]

oh no i totally agree with you. By the time you put a set of heads together its just not worth it. Tell alot of customers that same thing. Unless its stock resto or a race car that rules say you have to its just not worth it.

[vegaschevy]

So if I go with one of those stroker cranks what would be a good set of ALuminum heads to run that will not hold me back or be too big. Also Ill need an intake and carb. What would everyone recommend for taking a bare gen VI block and getting it to a running state?

Intake:
Carb:
Cam:
Rockers:
Lifters
Valve Covers
ETC:

[Marv D]

I'm going to stay out of the motor build as you have plenty of great advice here. ESPECIALY chevybuilder who is urging you to have those new heads disassembeled, thouroughly cleaned , and re-assembeled by a builder willing to take the time to check EVERYTHING as they go back together. It's not a slam to Edelbrock, it's just good sound advice for anyone who thinks a head out of the box is ready to 'bolt on'.

Now, the only reason I stuck my nose in here is trans suggestion. Your going to have more torque than you know what to do with here, I'm sure of that. But simply for the highway friendlyness (is that a word?) for trans I only got one suggestion...... 4L80E. Set gear ratio / tire size to be aroubnd 2500-2800 @ 55mph in 3rd (like a 3.40 or 3.73 gear and 31ish" tire) and you'll be cruising along sipping fuel just over 2000rpm locked up in OD. Put a 2400-2600 convertor in it and I bet you forget all about any thought of needing a blower.

[Rodms]

Originally Posted by Marv D

I'm going to stay out of the motor build as you have plenty of great advice here. ESPECIALY chevybuilder who is urging you to have those new heads disassembeled, thouroughly cleaned , and re-assembeled by a builder willing to take the time to check EVERYTHING as they go back together. It's not a slam to Edelbrock, it's just good sound advice for anyone who thinks a head out of the box is ready to 'bolt on'.

Now, the only reason I stuck my nose in here is trans suggestion. Your going to have more torque than you know what to do with here, I'm sure of that. But simply for the highway friendlyness (is that a word?) for trans I only got one suggestion...... 4L80E. Set gear ratio / tire size to be aroubnd 2500-2800 @ 55mph in 3rd (like a 3.40 or 3.73 gear and 31ish" tire) and you'll be cruising along sipping fuel just over 2000rpm locked up in OD. Put a 2400-2600 convertor in it and I bet you forget all about any thought of needing a blower.

Marv I can't believe he is gonna drive this on the street.I hope he has a good converter and tranny so it will idle.

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by Rodms

Marv I can't believe he is gonna drive this on the street.I hope he has a good converter and tranny so it will idle.

your telling me a 496 stroker is not streetable? come on now 550 HP 496 stroker is VERY streetable

[Rodms]

Originally Posted by vegaschevy

your telling me a 496 stroker is not streetable? come on now 550 HP 496 stroker is VERY streetable

No just have the right cam and converter and tranny,some cams are to much to idle in a street ap,don't think I'm talking you are doing something that is hard to drive down to the sonic without turning it of at the traffic light