I need help, frying coils

[BillyBlaze]

I really need some help here, I am chasing around a problem and dont know what to do about it.

I have bought so far....
a battery
coil.....now fried
starter
plugs
plug wires
safety neutral switch
distributor cap

and now a ignition switch and key set for the column (not installed)

Right now the key is hard to turn off but IS turning off, it will start whn the battery is charged....however the thing is somehow drawing power and draining the battery and frying the coil, unless I remove the battery terminal.
I am going to try and put on the ignition switch today and see if that helps.

I am just about out of ideas without replacing the whole freakin wiring harness.
I am asking if you guys might have experienced this thing before and can help a brutha out?

[tvblazer78]

Wow.. Anyone?

[Jonboy]

If you have gone that far, just swap it to HEI. You shouldn't have to worry about frying colis (and points) with one, and it should be a bit more reliable, too.

I would get the switch looked at pretty soon, too, if you suspect it is staying on.

[BillyBlaze]

The reason I bought this truck is for the fact it has no computer. I really want to get it fixed to be in original condition and working order.

Yep the switch is staying on even though the steering wheel is locked, and the radio isn't on and lights off...even the fan that stays on constantly isnt on but it's drawing power somehow to super heat the coil and drain the battery which btw is an 850 cranking amp brand new battery.

[Jonboy]

You don't need a computer to run HEi. Just switched 12+.

The ignition switch isn't hard to change, down on the column. The only thing that makes me wonder is why power is going only to the coil, instead of everything. It seems like everything else would be on if it was a bad switch. Can you tell if the coil has been wired around the ignition switch? I am no electrical guru, so maybe someone can walk you through troubleshooting this.

[manimal]

If the key is hard to turn, the ignition switch is probably bad or the rod is bent. If it is staying on at all, it will draw power and burn up coils,points,etc....Good Luck
-Lance

[Pyrotechnic]

Use a voltmeter on the + side of the coil to check for voltage after the key is turned off.

[BillyBlaze]

Originally Posted by Pyrotechnic

Use a voltmeter on the + side of the coil to check for voltage after the key is turned off.

OK, here's what happened...
on the aftermarket started the posts are closer together one of the leads wasn't tightened down enough and twisted to touch a post which caused the power to remain constant to the coil......fried the new and old coil.

replaced the coil after the fix and tested the coil on the + side with key off like Pyrotechnic said and now it's working fine.

Thanks guys!
Friday she goes in for the rebuild