Shaved door install questions on latches

[VA72C10]

Going to shave my doors on my truck. After talking to the fabricator who's helping me complete the truck and him saying he wants to do his and will practice on mine for basically free I figured what the heck. Question is do I go with the large bear claw latches that are power or do I go with a basic bear claw and a separate popper? I like the thought of the all in one with the bear claws that are power but not sure what others have done. I'm into reliability and good looks. Budget is a consideration as well as the powered bear claws are less than the non powered with a separate popper system. Any pictures of installs or advice are greatly appreciated. I will be shaving the cowl, gas cap, doors, trim, tailgate handle, stake pocket holes, and the antenna of course I will be keeping the driprail and a deluxe style marker light as I like this look. Did a paint program rendering of a nice shortbed "danny ewing's" truck from this site that is my major source of inspiration.

[chevy_mike]

What's wrong with the stock latches?

When I did this on my last '68, I used solanoids with the stock latches and put a spring loaded popper at the back lower corner of the door (actually mounted the popper on the cab side and it push against the lower corner of the door).

It worked great. I also ran an emerancy cable release up under the bumper incase of a dead battery. I used a bike cable for a tandem bike. It was long enough.

[68C10withA396]

The powered bear claws will be cleaner and a more reliable latch when it comes to opening the door all the way every time. I've used solonoids with poppers as well as the bears. The poppers every once in a while seemed to get stuck and I'd have to hit the solonoid button twice to get it to open. Never had that problem with the bear claws. I've only used them on mini trucks so these doors could be different

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

What's wrong with the stock latches?

When I did this on my last '68, I used solanoids with the stock latches and put a spring loaded popper at the back lower corner of the door (actually mounted the popper on the cab side and it push against the lower corner of the door).

It worked great. I also ran an emerancy cable release up under the bumper incase of a dead battery. I used a bike cable for a tandem bike. It was long enough.

Originally Posted by 68C10withA396

The powered bear claws will be cleaner and a more reliable latch when it comes to opening the door all the way every time. I've used solonoids with poppers as well as the bears. The poppers every once in a while seemed to get stuck and I'd have to hit the solonoid button twice to get it to open. Never had that problem with the bear claws. I've only used them on mini trucks so these doors could be different

Thanks for the opinions...I'm assuming with the bear claws I won't need a door handle at all where I would still keep one with stock latch? Or do most pop the door open when on the inside as well? I will be using some sort of emergency cable as well and maybe even a backup button...

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Thanks for the opinions...I'm assuming with the bear claws I won't need a door handle at all where I would still keep one with stock latch? Or do most pop the door open when on the inside as well? I will be using some sort of emergency cable as well and maybe even a backup button...

With the stock ones, I removed the door handles on the outside and kept the inside handles.

[VA72C10]

Any other pictures of bear claw installs or other options? Like completed installs that have already been smoothed out?

[chevygurly]

Powered Bear Claw latches would perfect if you use a spring loaded pusher too. I personally like the idea of having two motors popping open my door vs one. our doors are HEAVY! Autoloc has a special right now on two motors to pop open the door.

[sellersrodshop]

i have done trucks both ways, with solenoids & stock latches & bear claws. cut & dry, the stock latches are a p.i.a. to get working properly with solenoids. the trouble lies with the rotary type latch. the striker plate in the jamb has two teeth, safety catch & fully closed. i had to use 50 lb solenoids to pop the latch, then had to hit the button twice to clear both teeth. tried a popper to help open the door quicker, but that just seemed to preload & make it more difficult to open. ended up cutting one of the teeth off the striker to get them to work properly & adding suicide pins for safety. i'm not sure what the rating is on the bear claw/solenoid combo, but with the weight of these doors, i would use the standard bear claw & around a 35 lb solenoid. also, make sure the bear claws are double jawed. the single jawed latches aren't up to safety specs for passenger compartments.

[VA72C10]

Thanks for the info...think I'm gonna end up w/ std large bear claws with a popper.

[BigShoe24]

Great info guys. I'm still not understanding how the latch releases on a manual system?

Also, if I where to buy the Power Bear Claw latches, would I still need a popper?

Thanks

[bagged70]

I used bear claw latches I still need to finish the body work

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by bagged70

I used bear claw latches I still need to finish the body work

Thanks for the pictures...did you use the powered version or std? Why did you choose to put the latches in the door? I was thinking of the bear claws in the pillar with the stud in the door. Is there a reason to do it the other way? I guess it looks cleaner when you open the door?

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by BigShoe24

Great info guys. I'm still not understanding how the latch releases on a manual system?

Also, if I where to buy the Power Bear Claw latches, would I still need a popper?

Thanks

I've been told I would need a spring loaded popper near the hinge to open our doors mainly because they are heavy.

On a manual system, you'd have to check with someone else...I'm not sure either

[bagged70]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Thanks for the pictures...did you use the powered version or std? Why did you choose to put the latches in the door? I was thinking of the bear claws in the pillar with the stud in the door. Is there a reason to do it the other way? I guess it looks cleaner when you open the door?

Well no real reason but the factory put the latch in the door for a reason so why change it. I never realy gave it much thought I did always think that it looked funny with the latch in the pillar. they are std. latches my handles are shaved i am going to use 15lb popers the 45lb would be over kill on these the 45lb are for stock latches 15lb popers will pop bear claws with no problem

[sellersrodshop]

Originally Posted by BigShoe24

Great info guys. I'm still not understanding how the latch releases on a manual system?

Also, if I where to buy the Power Bear Claw latches, would I still need a popper?

Thanks

the manual bear claws aren't hard, you just have to fab up the linkage from the handle to the latch. the hard part on the 67-72 trucks is the outside handle. its a push button type handle, where most vehicles are arm actuated. in this case, the best method would be to fab up a cable system instead of a solid rod between the handle & latch. it will take some intricate fabrication, but is very doable. i just installed bear claws in a 37 ford & a 48 gmc that were both maually actuated with the original handles. i also noticed somebody asked about mounting the striker in the door & latch in the "b" pillar. this isn't a problem if using electric solenoids, but the latch in the pillar couldn't be opened by a handle on the outside of the door unless a long (approx. 8 ft.) cable system was used. the cable would have to pass thru the "a" pillar near the hinges, then loop down along the rocker & back up to the latch( don't ask how i know this ) i've installed dozens of these things in any configuration imagineable, so if you have any tech questions, shoot me a p.m. for my ph# & i'll be glad to help.

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by sellersrodshop

the manual bear claws aren't hard, you just have to fab up the linkage from the handle to the latch. the hard part on the 67-72 trucks is the outside handle. its a push button type handle, where most vehicles are arm actuated. in this case, the best method would be to fab up a cable system instead of a solid rod between the handle & latch. it will take some intricate fabrication, but is very doable. i just installed bear claws in a 37 ford & a 48 gmc that were both maually actuated with the original handles. i also noticed somebody asked about mounting the striker in the door & latch in the "b" pillar. this isn't a problem if using electric solenoids, but the latch in the pillar couldn't be opened by a handle on the outside of the door unless a long (approx. 8 ft.) cable system was used. the cable would have to pass thru the "a" pillar near the hinges, then loop down along the rocker & back up to the latch( don't ask how i know this ) i've installed dozens of these things in any configuration imagineable, so if you have any tech questions, shoot me a p.m. for my ph# & i'll be glad to help.

I'm going to run the powered latches with an extra adjustable spring loaded popper near the hinges to make sure it opens far enough for me to grab. Would you think the door mounted or pillar mounted setup would be better/cleaner?

[sellersrodshop]

i would stick to installing the latches in the doors & the striker pins in the pillar. if you mount the latches in the pillar & decide to use a "neat knob" or some other type of manual interior knob to open, it's harder to have to reach around behind the seat to operate. keep it in the door & the options are much broader. you can hook linkage to the original inside handle or graft in a handle from a later model vehicle. you will also want to make sure that the hinges have been rebuilt or replaced before the install. these hinges tend to have alot of "bind" in them that isn't too noticeable until you start setting up the latches. i've seen lots of problems solved simply by rebushing the hinges to operate freely. you might even wait before purchasing the poppers. if everything is set up properly & the hinges aren't binding, you shouldn't have a need for the poppers as the natural geometry of the bear claw jaws push the door outwards when they release.

[VA72C10]

I'm just using the adjustable spring loaded poppers hidden by the hinge for a little extra help. Any more pictures including pictures of completed installs or pictures of how you braced the inside of the doors with the bear claw latch?

[VA72C10]

ttt

[VA72C10]

anyone else with pictures or updates on info above....like completed/painted pictures???

[sellersrodshop]

i don't have any pics of the install on 67-72's. all i can find are some pics of a couple 48-54 trucks & some street rods. you shouldn't have to add any bracing to the door for the latch. i make my own "installation plates" similar to what autoloc & others sell & just cut out a section of the door & weld in.

[VA72C10]

Does anyone know if I can just eliminate this screw below the strike?? It's attached to a spring that hits above the cab corner but isn't that tight...not sure if it was part of the jack setup or something else but don't understand the need for it???

[sellersrodshop]

yes, you should be able to smooth that over. i think that hold a spring that i part of the jack storage. after you get finished, if you are interested in a set of polished stainless striker bolts, let me know. my dad makes them.

[VA72C10]

thanks for the info...those striker bolts are sweet