04-02-2003, 12:20 AM | #1 |
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??? Floor replacement ???
I'd like to see some proper floor replacement pictures. Some people over lap and weld, others butt to butt . Which is proper way for " Truely restored trucks " Should the joint not be visible after welding , grinding.
Would appreciate your input.
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Jock, Powder blasting shop, Alabama Last edited by jacquesdean; 04-02-2003 at 12:27 AM. |
04-02-2003, 12:39 AM | #2 |
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I am partial to the butt weld, since there are no cavities that can rust, and it can be ground perfectly smooth where the repair is really difficult to see.
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04-02-2003, 12:56 AM | #3 |
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Here's one of a butt joint.
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04-02-2003, 12:58 AM | #4 |
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Floor all done
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04-02-2003, 01:52 AM | #5 |
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floor repairs
Thanks Stingray,
appreciate you taking the time to send pics, greatly appreciated.
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Jock, Powder blasting shop, Alabama |
04-02-2003, 10:59 AM | #6 |
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Nice work stingRay, what year truck is that?
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04-02-2003, 01:55 PM | #7 |
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I wish mine looked that good. I'm not a welder, so I paid good money to have it done. Nobody ever does what you want done as well as you want it done. Nice work!!
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04-02-2003, 03:17 PM | #8 |
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Here are a couple pics of when I did mine. I use the butt-joining method, and I don't think I would do it the other way. Partly because of the way it would look, but also because I know that it would be so much easier and I would think that I just didn't have the ability to do the butt joints.(not meant to be a rag on anyone who uses the layover method) I am not a very good welder, and these pictures look better than real, but it gives you an idea.
Low68
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04-02-2003, 03:19 PM | #9 |
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Here is a picture of what it looked like on the bottom of the cab. I had my cab off(obviously) so it made it a whole lot easier to do. Good luck.
Low68
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04-02-2003, 06:36 PM | #10 |
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Nice work, did you dip the cab?
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04-02-2003, 07:41 PM | #11 |
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heres the non-proper way. you compair this cab is total junk (unfixible rust all over) so i just wanted to make it driveable till i jet a new one later any ways heres a pic.
ps. it was PITA LOL -kyle
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04-02-2003, 09:21 PM | #12 |
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I prefer a butt weld, A lap joint could allow moisture to get under
it and rust out again.
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04-02-2003, 09:25 PM | #13 |
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Blue Beard, is that question for me? If so, no. I had it sandblasted.
Hey Eddie H., is what kind of welder is that? I think I have used one of those in my welding class. The one I used was stinking slow. Is that? Thanks Low68
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04-02-2003, 09:32 PM | #14 |
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I'm using a Henrob 2000 Torch in that picture. I really like it. It's mainly designed for aircraft metal work, but you can weld nearly anything with it: Steel, Stainless steel, aluminum, cast iron, or even thin sheet metal.
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04-02-2003, 10:06 PM | #15 |
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Here's a picture of the floor repair from a different angle.
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04-02-2003, 11:00 PM | #16 |
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eddie:
you wouldn't happen to have a website for Henrob would you?
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04-03-2003, 08:01 PM | #17 |
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See if this link works:
http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/
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04-04-2003, 02:51 AM | #18 |
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rod
Is that 1/16" copper coated mild steel rod you're using with that Henrob outfit ? It doesn't look like you're using any kind of heat sink to minimize distortion. I used to use a "O" oxy/acet tip with the pressure set very low (just high enough to prevent popping) and still used to get some distortion. Does this unit eliminate that ????......Thanks.....Zoomy
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04-04-2003, 11:13 PM | #19 |
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I'm using 3/16 inch mild steel rod in that pic, but 1/16 works better for thin sheet metal.
The Henrob operates at only 4 psi on the gas and 02 so you get a soft concentrated flame that is hotter and much more controllable than with a conventional type of torch. You can still get some distortion if you stay in one place too long, but with a little practice, you can make some really clean welds. I've had good results with it so far. Ck out their website for some online demos and more info: http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/
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"Negative people always seem to have a problem for every solution" Last edited by Eddie H.; 04-04-2003 at 11:22 PM. |
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