Lowering my 65 swb

[ksbrktracer]

I know it has been asked multiple times, but I am really just asking for opinions...... I have put a complete 87 1/2 ton front crossmember under my truck with 1" rotors. I am using the complete steering linkage, pitman arm, and steering box. I bought a captainfab steering box adaptor (nice product by the way). I have stock spindles on it right now, but planning on putting drop spindles on it soon. I have put ground force 3" springs in the front so far. ( Thanks Cochino ).

I need to buy springs and a track bar for the rear. Any suggestions ????

I am planning on moving the rear trailing arm crossmember back The suggested 1-1/2" to center the rear wheels. ( Already have all the rivets out of it ) Can you move the upper spring mounts or what is everyone else doing???? I have put a 71-72 5-lug rear axle under it. I am thinking 5-6" springs in the rear. I have built a set of 2" steel blocks for the rear. I dont have to use them. I do not know what I can get away with and still be drivable as this is my first 60-66 build .

My other areas of concern are the steering. I want to move the front crossmember forward an 1-1/2" to center the wheels and still use the power steering. Has any one done any of this ???? Should I slide the p.strg bracket forward the 1-1/2" also. What about the Idler arm ? How should I determine the placement of it ?

I realize I have asked quite a bit.....BUT I have figured out that there is enough people on this sight that have done the things I want to do to mine and there is nothing like real world experience. My ultimate goal is to go to a C4 porterbuilt crossmember and bags when I can afford it.....But until then I want to get it drivable. I am installing a 454 and 700r4 with factory A-C and power brakes.

I appreciate all of the help and guidance.......THANK YOU

[N2TRUX]

Lots of good info to get us going, with one omission. What size tire do you plan to run?

[ksbrktracer]

I have not gotten that far....Minimum 17's , I like tire sidewall, rubber bands just dont do it for me. 275/60/17 on the rear about 30" tall and 235/60/17 on the front about 28" tall........nothin set in stone though. They will be staggered in height, I do like a little hotrod type rake

[N2TRUX]

Regardless of what size rim you decide to run, to get started you need to determine what height tire do you want to make fit. Having a rough idea of 28/30 gives us a starting point.

I'll let the guys jump in with their thoughts.

[lolife99]

Have you confirmed that the rear axle needs to go back 1-1/2" to be centered? I'm not familiar withe the 60-66 trucks enough to know.
Anyway,... EVERYTHING front and rear will have to be moved the same.
Rear,...
Upper shock mount and spring hole will have to move back the same amount as the trailing arm crossmember. If you need a c-notch,... it will have to be custom.
Front,... if you move the crossmember forward,... the steering box and idler arm will have to move the same amount. I'm not sure what this will do to the front bumper bracket or any other front engine component interference with the radiator or core support.

[protrash64]

Good point lolife99. The steering box will be into the bumper bracket for sure. The engine will not have any issues; I run mine in the front position now for more clearance at the back. There are 2 mount positions for the radiator, so that can be adjusted too. I would suggest going with the 5'' rear springs and then using your blocks if you need. You will need a notch if you add both spring+block.
Tires fit with no problem....I use 5.25'' and 5.5'' backspacing on my trucks and they fit the front no problem. Back will be into the wheelwells or very close....'burb has a 71-72 rear with 5.5'' backspace and I have roughly 1/2'' clearance on the inside. Staggered wheels will fit/look the best IMO.

The track bar should be long....use one that hooks to the trailing arm for the best control.....it may be in the way of exhaust or other stuff, so plan ahead.

[lolife99]

I forgot about the track bar frame mount. It would have to be moved rearward also.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I forgot about the track bar frame mount. It would have to be moved rearward also.

Possibly. If the 64-66 style frame mount is used w/a later rear end & one of the 'super' track bar set-ups, the PHB may be ok. The pre-67's have a different angle on the frame PHB mount vs. 67-72's. Combine that w/the aftermarket long-bar w/corresponding truck-arm mount vs. on the housing, & it will be pretty close....

If you go low enough to warrant c-notches, you'll definitely have to build your own as the rear end is on the verge of hitting the edge of the bolt-in style c-notches in the factory location. Shifting it rearward helps but you can only go about .750 before you have the same issue all over. Not that big of a deal if you can fabricate what you need.

The shock mounts can also be tweaked to work. The upper mounts 'mount' the shock toward the front of the truck. By reversing the mounts (using shock relocator type brackets/locations), the upper shock eye would now be toward the rear of the truck. My guess is it would be in the ballpark of 1-1.5" difference based on the dimension between the two positions.

Instead of shifting the entire c.member back, adding spacers between the c.member & front locating brackets is an option (that way you can adjust it). Just drill the holes out & step up in the bolt size (GRADE-8 or better of course).

[ksbrktracer]

I have thoughts of maybe using a k-p watts link in the rear.....mainly because I would like to maybe 4-link the rear with bags at a later date . I think sliding the front crossmember forward is doable...I really do want to center the wheels and tire while I am doing this. I will be notching the frame at the minimum on the rear , Have thought about a smaller step notch and raising the bed floor, I hate cut out bed floors. Does anyone see any problems with what I am thinking ..........?

[SCOTI]

For all the work it would take to shift the front factory style c.member forward, I'd wait until I could pony-up for a Dropmember. There's been more than one pop up in the classifieds recently below 1K.

[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

For all the work it would take to shift the front factory style c.member forward, I'd wait until I could pony-up for a Dropmember. There's been more than one pop up in the classifieds recently below 1K.

I have been thinking the same thing.....gonna end up with an awful lot of holes if I move it forward from the looks of it, may just have to live with it as is till I can afford what I want

[ksbrktracer]

decisions.....decisions

[SCOTI]

If you can fab, a 'Z' would be better (less work) IMO vs. notching the c.member, raising the steering correctly, & moving the spindle C/L forward.

[ksbrktracer]

I think I would rather build a new frame before I would Z it personally