Pine bed wood - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

kenny_strong · 08-04-2009, 09:59 AM

What has everyone done to finish the pine wood in the bed? I was thinking lynseed oil. Any tips?? Pictures?

ChevySixty6 · 08-04-2009, 10:13 AM

I came across this web site from Mar-K, that show them testing difft finishes.
Looks like the factory black paint finish lasts the longest.

http://www.mar-k.com/wood_finish_testing_i.html

Northern lights · 08-04-2009, 11:08 AM

Linseed oil is a very poor finish for that application IMO. I just posted a warning over on "Shop safety" a few hours ago regarding linseed oil.

BC Pappy · 08-04-2009, 11:15 AM

I used Thompson Water Seal (rustic red tint) on my '65. May not be the best choice but i like the look.http://s962.photobucket.com/albums/ae103/trainer5151/

padresag · 08-04-2009, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Northern lights

Linseed oil is a very poor finish for that application IMO. I just posted a warning over on "Shop safety" a few hours ago regarding linseed oil.

why is it a poor finish in your opinion for that application?
ron

ol Curt · 08-04-2009, 12:39 PM

Here's how Custom Classic Trucks handled this.

"The oil will oxidize and produce heat, if the heat accumulates faster that it can dissipate, the rag will spontaneously combust. Soak all rags in a bucket of water overnight before throwing away."

Northern lights · 08-04-2009, 03:59 PM

Linseed oil is not water resistent. Water goes right through it however, it does breath and the water will come back out of it. It has to be applied VERY thin and then, requires a day in the sun to "dry". It will take many days (sunny days) to get a decent finish. If applied too thick it will stay gooy for a LONG time. It IS, however, easy to repair. If this is for a show truck that will rarely see weather, it might be OK but rather than just plain double boiled linseed oil, you could try Birchwood Casey's "Tru-oil". It's linseed with driers added and is more user friendly and leaves a harder surface. A better choice would be Chambers oil which can be found here http://www.flintlocks.com/ . Permalyn in another option http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/products.htm These are gunstock finishes but would be suitable for a truck bed. Certainly more suitable than linseed IMO.

Fred T · 08-04-2009, 05:19 PM

The reason any oil finish does not work well on pine is that pine has a high oil content. Oil finishes are best used on porous woods, such as oak and walnut. Also, the oil finishes remain soft, they never harden and dry. So they are not scratch resistant and require maintenance in uses such as truck beds.

The softness of the oil finish is also an advantage. Repair is easy. Fine steel wool and a mixture of oil and turpentine makes a quick touch-up.

padresag · 08-04-2009, 07:17 PM

If one uses boiled linseed as the first coat and wipe it dry and let it sit overnight and then apply your urethane or whatever over it it will pop the colour up and will darken to a richer colour. The older varnishes were all at one time linseed based and this always darkened the wood.. new varnished are not contructed this way and does leave most wood to me looking anemic.
there is more of a problem of applying b/linseed to oak and walnut than there is to pine as it keeps bleeding back out of the pores where you can't wipe it dry that easily. one should allways take care of any rags used with finishing supplies. putting in water. a couple of others is to open the rags up and lay them seperately to dry and the dispose of them. What I always do and find that it works well is that I always use nitrile glove and when I take the gloves off I pull the gloves over the rags that I have used,1st one then the other and sometimes more so that they are well sealed from oxygen; no oxygen, no problem.
one of the finishes that was originally used on bed wood was a product called pine tar,. It was also used on the decks of boats esp in commercial applications eg.fishinhg vessels
ron

08-04-2009, 09:59 AM	#1
kenny_strong Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: maryland Posts: 218	Pine bed wood What has everyone done to finish the pine wood in the bed? I was thinking lynseed oil. Any tips?? Pictures?

08-04-2009, 10:13 AM	#2
ChevySixty6 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Topeka, Kansas Posts: 84	Re: Pine bed wood I came across this web site from Mar-K, that show them testing difft finishes. Looks like the factory black paint finish lasts the longest. http://www.mar-k.com/wood_finish_testing_i.html __________________ Members i've met: LiLRed66

08-04-2009, 11:08 AM	#3
Northern lights Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Whitemud Alberta Posts: 328	Re: Pine bed wood Linseed oil is a very poor finish for that application IMO. I just posted a warning over on "Shop safety" a few hours ago regarding linseed oil.

08-04-2009, 11:15 AM	#4
BC Pappy Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Kenner Louisiana Posts: 53	Re: Pine bed wood I used Thompson Water Seal (rustic red tint) on my '65. May not be the best choice but i like the look.http://s962.photobucket.com/albums/ae103/trainer5151/

08-04-2009, 12:39 PM	#6
ol Curt Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Newburgh, IN Posts: 1,247	Re: Pine bed wood Here's how Custom Classic Trucks handled this. "The oil will oxidize and produce heat, if the heat accumulates faster that it can dissipate, the rag will spontaneously combust. Soak all rags in a bucket of water overnight before throwing away." __________________ 1966 Chevy C10 Longbed I'm Bob....ol Curt was my Grandpa The truck was his and he sure as heck wouldn't understand why I took a perfectly good truck and tore it down!

08-04-2009, 03:59 PM	#7
Northern lights Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Whitemud Alberta Posts: 328	Re: Pine bed wood Linseed oil is not water resistent. Water goes right through it however, it does breath and the water will come back out of it. It has to be applied VERY thin and then, requires a day in the sun to "dry". It will take many days (sunny days) to get a decent finish. If applied too thick it will stay gooy for a LONG time. It IS, however, easy to repair. If this is for a show truck that will rarely see weather, it might be OK but rather than just plain double boiled linseed oil, you could try Birchwood Casey's "Tru-oil". It's linseed with driers added and is more user friendly and leaves a harder surface. A better choice would be Chambers oil which can be found here http://www.flintlocks.com/ . Permalyn in another option http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/products.htm These are gunstock finishes but would be suitable for a truck bed. Certainly more suitable than linseed IMO.

08-04-2009, 05:19 PM	#8
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	Re: Pine bed wood The reason any oil finish does not work well on pine is that pine has a high oil content. Oil finishes are best used on porous woods, such as oak and walnut. Also, the oil finishes remain soft, they never harden and dry. So they are not scratch resistant and require maintenance in uses such as truck beds. The softness of the oil finish is also an advantage. Repair is easy. Fine steel wool and a mixture of oil and turpentine makes a quick touch-up. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

08-04-2009, 07:17 PM	#9
padresag Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Sidney,b.c. Posts: 4,425	Re: Pine bed wood If one uses boiled linseed as the first coat and wipe it dry and let it sit overnight and then apply your urethane or whatever over it it will pop the colour up and will darken to a richer colour. The older varnishes were all at one time linseed based and this always darkened the wood.. new varnished are not contructed this way and does leave most wood to me looking anemic. there is more of a problem of applying b/linseed to oak and walnut than there is to pine as it keeps bleeding back out of the pores where you can't wipe it dry that easily. one should allways take care of any rags used with finishing supplies. putting in water. a couple of others is to open the rags up and lay them seperately to dry and the dispose of them. What I always do and find that it works well is that I always use nitrile glove and when I take the gloves off I pull the gloves over the rags that I have used,1st one then the other and sometimes more so that they are well sealed from oxygen; no oxygen, no problem. one of the finishes that was originally used on bed wood was a product called pine tar,. It was also used on the decks of boats esp in commercial applications eg.fishinhg vessels ron



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