Panel adheasive vs butt weld

[Hilandr451]

I saw this on another thread with regards to a big back window conversion on a 60-66 Chevy truck cab:

Originally Posted by 502tripower

It is not necessary to remove the roof panel. Just the back window liner is all that needs to be removed. I have not done it myself but, have friends that have used just the new panel adhesive used for new car construction to install the BBW liner and, it worked perfect. In both cases the trucks were already painted and they did not want to go through the repaint process. When they were done you could not tell and, in one case the truck was T-boned in a intersection and the panel was warped bad but the adhesive held with now separations.

How does that stuff do on exterior panels like say if a guy were to graph in a flush mounted fuel door to a bed side?

[65ona90]

I worked in a custom shop for quite some time about 2 years ago and we used 3M's 8115 (panel bond) for all of our custom work. Shaved doors, graphing on new quarters, etc. It really does work great. It is actually stronger than factory plug welds on most panels, all the major manufacturers sent out TSB's on were to use the panel bond because if you used it all the way around a panel it would be too strong and wouldn't crush and collapse like it is supposed to in a crash. The only problem with the panel bond is that if you use it to do something like your flush mount fuel door and then paint it shortly after you will see what they call "ghosting" around the work you did. almost like a halo around it. This happens over a few month period after the panel bond truley cures, and once it does it shrinks i slight amount. Other than that it works beautifully. I used it to seam seal a car mine, stiffened right up as if i would have seam welded the whole car.

[Joemomma1]

I was also very interested in this method also but the epoxy is $40 and the gun was $130. Might as well weld it in.

[terd ferguson]

Originally Posted by 65ona90

I worked in a custom shop for quite some time about 2 years ago and we used 3M's 8115 (panel bond) for all of our custom work. Shaved doors, graphing on new quarters, etc. It really does work great. It is actually stronger than factory plug welds on most panels, all the major manufacturers sent out TSB's on were to use the panel bond because if you used it all the way around a panel it would be too strong and wouldn't crush and collapse like it is supposed to in a crash. The only problem with the panel bond is that if you use it to do something like your flush mount fuel door and then paint it shortly after you will see what they call "ghosting" around the work you did. almost like a halo around it. This happens over a few month period after the panel bond truley cures, and once it does it shrinks i slight amount. Other than that it works beautifully. I used it to seam seal a car mine, stiffened right up as if i would have seam welded the whole car.

So are you suggesting that if you use the adhesive and wait a month or so for it to finally cure and shrink before painting that it would be ok? And thanks for the info.

[65ona90]

Yes, if your going to use the panel bond make sure you give it some time in between your work and final paint. Other than that it works great. But Joemomma1 is right it is kind of expensive, if you can use the gun from someone and just buy the bond it's not so bad. A company called SEM makes a panel bond that doesn't require any special gun like the 3m 8115, but i do believe that the bond is still about the same price.

[70 Suburban]

Fusor is another option. If its thermo set then you can use a heat gun to speed it up

[terd ferguson]

Thanks guys. I've been reading about this stuff on the hamb. I thought I might try it out and shave my door handles to see how it works.

I would assume for body panels, there would have to be some overlap of the panels or some kind of backing panel. For instance, what would your recommended procedure be for say gluing a lower fender patch panel?

And thanks again.

[Hilandr451]

Thanks for the insight! That's definately worth looking into for us bird sh_t welders!

[shortbed70]

This stuff is tough to say the least... DID you know that nascar race car bodies are mostly GLUED togather with some small skipwelds to help. I've seen it and we all know the abuse these cars can take.

[Captainfab]

I've seen the guns for the 3M cartridges on ebay for $40-$60

There are a lot of high strength adhesives used these days particularly on tractor trailers. Most of those types can be dispensed with a regular calking gun.

[Jonboy]

We used window urethane a lot when I worked at the Peterbilt store. Of course, that was back in 1994-96.

I have used the metal bonding on a lot of my projects with pretty good success. I filled all of the trim holes on my Roadmaster (shaves the side moldings, opera lights, and hood ornament), and used pennies at the backers for the holes. That worked out pretty slick, actually. I also used it to shave the cab seam on the '73 Chevy pickup I built.

[65ona90]

Yeah this panel bond works great, and good call 70 Suburban i forgot that fusor came out with it as well. I am very impressed with there products, never personally used there panel bond but they make an amazing expandable foam. As far as patching a panel such as the lower fender patch panel, the best way i found to use the bond is overlapping the panels. We would mock up the panel and clamp it in place, then drill 1/8" pilot holes and hold it up with cleko's (i believe that how you spell it), the removable clamping rivets. As long is the fit was good i would pull off the panel and use the bond and rivet it into place. once cured, grind off the rivet heads and blend your patch in.

[Jonboy]

Panel bond would work very well filling the seams on the beds, too. It would be a lot easier than welding it, for sure.

[mbgmike]

Its hard to glue a Butt weld together with panel adhesive Do you mean a lap weld?

[mbgmike]

As far as a gun for the cartridge if required there is a post here showing a cheaply made home made one. It looked like it works fine. Do a search for it.
There are many good adhesives from many suppliers. You just have to buy the correct adhesive not really just the brand. They make panel adhesive that works well right over oiled steel and it bonds just fine. I worked for Dow for years making adhesives and stuff for the auto industrie. Need any info on what type let me know. Last I looked they have like over 50 different recipes for differant apps. and conditions on cars not just one. I use it all the time on the newer cars cause we have to put them back just like they were built.
insurance companies require us to do it

[502tripower]

In your application I think welding the fuel door in would be in order. Good Luck.