04-20-2003, 11:42 AM | #1 |
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Powering it up
I am about to install a power booster on my truck (no power drums). any words of advice, before it's too late
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04-20-2003, 01:07 PM | #2 |
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no words of advice but let me know how it goes. Iam planning on doing the same soon. Good luck
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04-20-2003, 02:02 PM | #3 |
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It's a very straight forward swap krue, one of the easiest to do. Just be sure to bleed the brakes very well before driving it. Only adjustment is the rod length, after everything is bolted up, and tight, there should be about 1/8 inch free play in the brake pedal to prevent unwanted application. Good Luck
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69 GMC K10 ..some restoration required....still.. |
04-20-2003, 05:27 PM | #4 |
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Got it in, now I need to get the brakes to go with the power.
Oh yeah, where can I find the vacuum hose and fitting for the intake?
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04-20-2003, 06:30 PM | #5 |
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Buy the vacumm hose new at parts store. Fitting should be on any intake ..junk yard etc. If you can't find one I may have one in my old stash... I'll have to look tomorrow. Do you have the check valve, and grommet for the booster ?
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69 GMC K10 ..some restoration required....still.. |
04-20-2003, 08:42 PM | #6 |
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No check valve, I'm not sure about the grommet.
Here is what I wound up with so far.
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04-20-2003, 09:53 PM | #7 |
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ttt
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04-20-2003, 10:20 PM | #8 |
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It looks like the check valve is in the grommet in the picture. That would be the white plastic part behind the master. The vacumm hose attaches to it. It keeps the chamber under vacumm if the engine dies, so you can make one final assisted stop on the side of the road.
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69 GMC K10 ..some restoration required....still.. |
04-20-2003, 10:34 PM | #9 |
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Dang I'm getting old krue.....Can't remember yesterday. I know the check vavlve is missing. It was cracked. I assume the grommet is all there. We used the check valve on my the other truck when we tested it for vacumn leaks..
Class of 69...what you see is old fashion papertowel plug to keep dust out of the hole. I had to look twice at Krue's picture. Forgot I dabe a pice their to keep out the dust.
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04-20-2003, 11:09 PM | #10 |
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OK LOL!!! couldn't really tell by the picture. So, you'll need a check valve too krue...readily available at auto parts store along with the hose.
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04-21-2003, 05:48 AM | #11 |
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Thanks for the help guys! BTW why are brake lines such a booger to get started? I almost never got them back in the proportioning valve!
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04-21-2003, 09:33 PM | #12 |
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It helps to leave everything loose until you get all the lines started, even the prop valve to bracket bolts. Brake lines seem to need to be aligned exactly straight to start the threads.
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04-21-2003, 09:36 PM | #13 |
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do the front brakes go in the front resevoir or visa-versa?
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04-21-2003, 09:51 PM | #14 |
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I'd have to trace it out. It's two different sized lines going into the proportioning valve, that's how I kept them straight.
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04-21-2003, 10:15 PM | #15 |
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Depends...C10s front to rear resivoir Front resv to rear brakes...
for some reason c20 front to front and resr to rear. Why...Idunno. that's way I have always seen them.
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04-21-2003, 10:59 PM | #16 |
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front to front makes sense so the main resevoir would be full if you were low on fluid in a hard stop. I think im gonna switch mine either way unless someone can think of a reason not to other than "it dont fit". please tell. im trying to make it more safe because i have had trouble with hot brake fluid spillng out of the resevoir.
Last edited by Jackal2k9; 04-21-2003 at 11:05 PM. |
04-21-2003, 11:12 PM | #17 |
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If the seal in the cap is old and hardened, fluid will leak out. Scrape any rust off the top edge of the master, and replace the seal...should stop leaking.
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