Power steering conversion?

[67ss&99ss]

I am wanting to convert my 69 to power steering from manual steering. Yesterday I removed a power steering box, pitman arm, center link and idler arm from a 71 or 72 C/10 frame. My question is, are the center links and idler arms the same on both steering setups? I also picked up a powersteering pump off of a mid 70s 305 but after researching this site, it looks like it will not work without having to move my alternator over to the passenger side. I think that I have access to a correct style pump, so I am going to try to pick it up along with the mounting brackets. I am going to order new powersteering hoses for it before I do the swap. Do I need to purchase any other parts to complete the swap other than the pulley for the crankshaft?

[rsavage]

Rag joint that fits the PS box and a belt. I never had to change center link or idler arm, just had to get a pitman arm for the PS box.

[whiteyandreddy]

I am new to the site, but I saw your question and had to respond. I swapped my 1972 over to PS and did not have to move the alterator to the passenger side. I did have to find the right crankshaft pulley. I believe it had three grooves. I can't run out and check right now but I can make a call and have a friend verify if you need. Take a picture of the pump brackets as they come off. It wasn't immediately obvious to me how they went back together when it came time for reinstall. The only other things you may want will be the castle nut and cotter pin which hold the pitman arm on the gearbox, and loctite (R) threadlocker for the ragjoint nuts. I use in spots where you can't afford to have a nut come loose.

[Sinisterspeed]

I also have PS and drivers side alt. It was done this way when they had AC. So with the right brackets it shouldn't be a problem.

[westofb]

if you were closer, I have a complete 71 parts truck with the pump, brackets, and pulleys you need to leave your ps and alternator on the drivers side.

[67ss&99ss]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I have access to a 71 parts truck that I know has a pump on it but am unsure of the brackets. It doesn't have an engine so I know it doesn't have the crankshaft pulley.

[whiteyandreddy]

Did you get your install complete? Do you need info on the pulleys?

[Tx Firefighter]

There is no reason to fool with the alternator. The alternator is supposed to be on the driver's side of the truck regardless of whether the truck had P/S or not. Here's my engine with the proper brackets.

[big_al_71]

When I added PS to mine I moved the ALT to the passenger side I used factory pump and steering gear box.

[71 super]

If you start trying to move alt from driver's side to passenger side, you will run into pulley issues, pass. side stuff was later model 73-up and used a long water pump, your truck has a short water pump. If I were you I would invest in the correct bracket set for a 68-72 truck and a correct power steering pulley- try teeitup and covert with no hassles. For the other portion of your question, you stated you removed parts from 71-72 truck and going onto a 69. You need to use your drag link and center section. The tierods are a different size on 72-72 and will not bolt on without converting to all 71-72 parts (good idea for disc brakes) . Summary- get right brackets and pullies and put pump on driver's side as originally designed. Use your center link and just change boxes if leaving drum brakes on your 69. Good luck.

[67ss&99ss]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

There is no reason to fool with the alternator. The alternator is supposed to be on the driver's side of the truck regardless of whether the truck had P/S or not. Here's my engine with the proper brackets.

Thanks for the pictures. I went back this past weekend and the pump was still on the parts truck along with the brackets for it. However, I still need the correct pulley for the crankshaft and the bolts to bolt the pump onto the block. Are the bolts 3/8-16 x 2"? Any idea where I can get a crank pulley one before this weekend?

[67ss&99ss]

Originally Posted by 71 super

If you start trying to move alt from driver's side to passenger side, you will run into pulley issues, pass. side stuff was later model 73-up and used a long water pump, your truck has a short water pump. If I were you I would invest in the correct bracket set for a 68-72 truck and a correct power steering pulley- try teeitup and covert with no hassles. For the other portion of your question, you stated you removed parts from 71-72 truck and going onto a 69. You need to use your drag link and center section. The tierods are a different size on 72-72 and will not bolt on without converting to all 71-72 parts (good idea for disc brakes) . Summary- get right brackets and pullies and put pump on driver's side as originally designed. Use your center link and just change boxes if leaving drum brakes on your 69. Good luck.

I got the correct pump and brackets off of a 71 parts truck so I am not using the later model pump I had originally found. I just need to find a crank pulley now. I plan to do a disc brake swap in the future, but since I just refurbished all the brakes on the truck, I will wear them out first before I do the swap.

[67ss&99ss]

ttt. trying to find where i can get a crank pulley for power steering. anybody have a spare?

[67ss&99ss]

I got most of the work done this weekend. The only I have left is to install the crank pulley, belt and top if off with PS fluid. I may have to made another return line going into the power steering box. I had to bend my inner fender up slightly to get it to clear the line.

[67ss&99ss]

I finished up my install today and I have a few questions/concerns. I filled the pump with fluid, jacked the front of the truck up and started the engine. I moved the wheel left to right about 20 times and turned off the engine. The fluid was very foamy and ran over. After I let it sit for a few minutes I checked the fluid level, and it was full. I started the truck again and I noticed that the steering in the left direction is much easier than the right direction. I drove the truck around my yard but the steering never really improved. The pump is a little noisy, which I expected, since the parts truck I got it off of has been sitting for a while. My question is, does this sound like an issue with the pump or the steering box?

[Sport/Truck]

Pumps usually make noise when they run low on fluid, but seeing how you said it's full and foaming I suspect either air that still needs purged or the pump is bad.
s/t

[67ss&99ss]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

Pumps usually make noise when they run low on fluid, but seeing how you said it's full and foaming I suspect either air that still needs purged or the pump is bad.
s/t

You were right. I thought that I had all of the air out of it yesterday but that wasn't the case. Today I kept the motor at about 1800-2000 rpm while turning the steering wheel left to right and I finally got all of the air out of it and it quit making noise. I have one leak at the steering box on the pressure hose side. I guess I will have to run it back out and try some teflon tape on it so see if I can stop the leak.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by 67ss&99ss

You were right. I thought that I had all of the air out of it yesterday but that wasn't the case. Today I kept the motor at about 1800-2000 rpm while turning the steering wheel left to right and I finally got all of the air out of it and it quit making noise. I have one leak at the steering box on the pressure hose side. I guess I will have to run it back out and try some teflon tape on it so see if I can stop the leak.

That's a flair fitting and tape wont help. If tightening the nut won't cure it, try giving the pipe a little twist while tightening the nut. It will help seat the flair.
If that don't work you'll need a new hose is my guess.
s/t

[67ss&99ss]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

That's a flair fitting and tape wont help. If tightening the nut won't cure it, try giving the pipe a little twist while tightening the nut. It will help seat the flair.
If that don't work you'll need a new hose is my guess.
s/t

Okay. My hose is new, but I guess there is a chance that it is defective?

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by 67ss&99ss

Okay. My hose is new, but I guess there is a chance that it is defective?

I've had the same thing happen with new hoses.
The seat that contacts the flair can be affected by dirt, burrs etc.
It's best if you remove it clean and inspect your fittings (at the hose and the steering box) look for any damage like small dents in the seat.
The seats are replaceable, but I have never done it, and don't think its hard.

With it all clean, reassemble and check for leaks.
If you have a small amount of seepage and tightening won't stop it. Then loosen it just a bit then try my above method- While putting the final torque on the nut, give the the hose (pipe portion) a little rotation in the same direction as you put the final torque on your fitting.
You don't want any amount of leakage as that stuff will end up everywhere!
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
s/t

[67ss&99ss]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

I've had the same thing happen with new hoses.
The seat that contacts the flair can be affected by dirt, burrs etc.
It's best if you remove it clean and inspect your fittings (at the hose and the steering box) look for any damage like small dents in the seat.
The seats are replaceable, but I have never done it, and don't think its hard.

With it all clean, reassemble and check for leaks.
If you have a small amount of seepage and tightening won't stop it. Then loosen it just a bit then try my above method- While putting the final torque on the nut, give the the hose (pipe portion) a little rotation in the same direction as you put the final torque on your fitting.
You don't want any amount of leakage as that stuff will end up everywhere!
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
s/t

I loosened it up just a little bit and moved the line back and forth a few times, then I rotated it slightly and tightened as tight as I could get it with the wrench I had. Fired it up and no leaks! Thanks for your help.

[ShredSled]

This thread should be a sticky, very helpful and great photos too! I'm going to be tackling the same project this summer.

[mr48chev]

Nice photos for guys to use as reference Andy.

I have one thing to add from my experiences when I was doing front end work and repairing power steering boxes and pumps and that is to run a good quality power steering fluid and do not run atf. That alone will often make a big difference concerning pump noise.

[ShredSled]

quick question for those reading here with more experience with the PS swap than I...

What do you all think of the CPP powersteering kit? Very pricey, and I notice it does not come with a crank pulley, and also (according to generic photo) looks like it comes with rubber hose...

I'm just not too sure where else to look other than reproduction kits.
Finding parts trucks in the middle of nowhere for donor parts is not happening around here, so what might I expect to pay for all the parts needed?

Appreciate any input, thanks!

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by ShredSled

quick question for those reading here with more experience with the PS swap than I...

What do you all think of the CPP powersteering kit? Very pricey, and I notice it does not come with a crank pulley, and also (according to generic photo) looks like it comes with rubber hose...

I'm just not too sure where else to look other than reproduction kits.
Finding parts trucks in the middle of nowhere for donor parts is not happening around here, so what might I expect to pay for all the parts needed?

Appreciate any input, thanks!

I'm a curmudgeon but I am not going to buy from CPP or some place when GM parts are so damn well built and engineered. Board member Randy Zwygart (screen name teeitup) parts out tons of these trucks. You could send him a message and he'd be able to round you up a pump and brackets, pulleys, steering box and rag joint for well less than buying aftermarket stuff. I've bought from him a dozen times or so. He sells me used stuff, I clean and powdercoat it all and wind up with better parts than new aftermarket for less money.

See my pictures posted earlier in this thread. All good original parts that have been refurbished that I bought off our parts board here.