What To Look For (eg. problem areas) 67 C-10

[Chevrolet4x4s]

Going to look at a 67 short step Saturday,admittedly I'm kind of out of my element with the 67-72s,I'm more familiar with the 73-87s.
It is supposed to be solid, but are there any areas that I need to pay particular attention to? Are there any known frame issues or tale tale singns of rust that are hard to spot? No engine or transmission so that won't be in the way to hide anything in that area.
I really hope that its worth fixing up.
Shane

[glider_6969]

Hopefully you don't find what I found check out my post, titled Getting Closer,
When you do go look at that truck take your time look it over well and decide how much work you want.

[Diablo de la Noche]

After bringing mine home and having all the plans to make it look like a "Foose" special, I found that the cab was twisted (front to back) from a front-end crash, on the driver's side fender area. Check to make sure the cab doesn't have any creases on the back, and that you don't see any rust around the windows. That stuff if hard to fix.

After reading this forum, most of the rust problem areas are: Rocker panels under the doors, the cab corners, the fender under the battery, and the kickpanels. Most are easy to replace and the parts are pretty cheap. Look at the VIN on the door jamb, and on the frame next to the steering box. They should match. Get under the truck and make sure the frame is straight. There should be an upward bend on the pasenger side in the engine compartment (don't know why, it's just there). Make sure there are no hap-hazzard welds on the frame area, and the shocks and mounts are in the original places. That's all I can think of right now.

[Sinister]

Check out the cab real well. In addition to what's been mentioned, look for rust around the windshield seal, cab supports, cowl/firewall, kick panels. Good luck!

[midevil1]

Take a pin magnet with you. Check around the cab corners, all of the floor area, bottom of the fenders, look inside the cowl and firewall. Rear fenders are $$$$$ so if they are gone.....think hard. Core support on the passengerside is usually rotted out due to the battery. Bottom of the doors is a problem area too.

Good luck. Hopefully she is a peach.

[57larry]

what's the asking price?

[ShredSled]

good thread! I started one similar, but started it in the "welcome" section, so not as many replies.

I'm in the same boat, getting ready to go scope out a '67 C10, hopefully this weekend if the guy gets back with me.

Sounds like main areas are going to be behind/under rockers, firewall, under battery, and around glass... I'm going to look over the whole thing the best I can with a flashlight though...

Fingers crossed I don't find any rot on this one!

[Chevrolet4x4s]

Thanks for the information, I really appreciate it.
The rears are about $400 a piece from what I have been able to find,is that about right?
The bed is supposed to be in good condition,no rust out, just surface rust, cab and front clip are supposed to be ready for paint,thats one of the things that worries me,I'm paranoid of a "primered project"
$1,100.00 obo I guess that is the one good thing about such a bad economy.
Does any one know of a sorce for 5 lug rear axles,or would I be better off just to send them out to Moser and have them redrilled,or would I be better off to get say a 9 inch from a 2wd F*rd and weld the trailing arm brackets to that? I have a 2wd 85 parts truck,bought it for the bed for the k10, that will be donating its front suspension for a disk brake upgrade.
Plans are for a ls(6.0) and hopefully a t56 eventually. But a 305ho/350turbo may end up in it in the mean time(since I already have it).
Thanks
Shane

[Chevrolet4x4s]

Deal fell through apparentally,Was supposed to go look at it around 10am Saturday,call at 10 and get final directions to it.Called, left 2 messages and still no call back.
Shane

[ShredSled]

man that sucks. Seller must have fell in the bottle friday night, haha!

But similar thing happened to me, couldn't get ahold of seller to arrange a test drive this weekend, but it was raining hard consistently anyway. Still going to try to go see it this week.

[Chevrolet4x4s]

Yeah it does, IDK. I'll just keep my eyes peeled for another,or possibly this one if I hear something.
Shane

[Fitz]

It pays to prepare just a bit if you're going to try to find another truck. One trick i've used with great success is a flexible refridgerator magnet in one of the protective bags sunglasses come in. It'll just stick if there's two coats of paint but just drops off if you drag it over bondo.

When the sellers talk every truck has a posi rear and none of them have any bondo on them. Check the lower front edge of the passenger side front fender just in front of the wheel arch. The battery box is above that point and all of the acid that bubbled out of the battery over the last 40 years ends up there. If there's no bondo there there probably isn't any anywhere else but you should still check.

GMC Pauls has a VIN decoder on his website, and there are several others on the web. Find one you like and take a copy with you when you look at a truck. The VIN plate is riveted to the "B" pillar on the drivers side. MAKE SURE it's there and if it's been tampered with WALK AWAY. In some states you can get a truck registered if it's been removed and replaced but in others all you have a very expensive pile of parts as you simply cannot get it registered if the original factory rivets aren't there. In California and a few other states if a VIN search reveals the vehicle has been stolen it is impounded on the spot and you lose everything you have paid. They don't care where you got it they only care about recovering the vehicle so ...beware.

[ShredSled]

great tips about checking for bondo with the magnet in bag!

[Chevrolet4x4s]

Mag-in a-Bag is a great idea
Shane