Body guys='63 CUSTOM CAB SWBase, Fleet/Big window found...but roof's bowed in...

[SUBURBANlinoleum]

Hello guys - I have been registered here for a while, but never really used the site.

I mostly look for 1955-57 Chevy wagon stuff, but have wanted another 193-66 Custom Cab for a long time.

====Found this for sale...have a question====

When I was younger I found a great, 2-owner 1962...wantd to lower it, first...1962 still had torsion bars? Crap. So I sold it.

Kind of looking since, off and on.
Now everyone wants them, though =$$!!
So I have been looking for a "deal", AND the best model and trim level (why I haven't found one in 10 years that fit the bill!).

There aren't any here that aren't already (badly) worked on, and I never wanted one bad enough to travel or ship one, but one presented itself for sale here...but I don't know.

Hate "advice" posts, but since I always keep an eye toward resale (getting $ BACKm,if not a profit...and the economy is weird...

I'll throw it out there.

Fun pics of a cool find, at least!

Found this - It's a 1963, and unlike ALL others I see, it's got all 4 good things
(most of us look for...longbed people...never mind!):
Custom cab
SHort wheel base
FLEET SIDE
Big window.

Man it is tough finding one that some one hasn't built already...
~And if you Find a Custom Cab, Big window, it's a long bed.
~If you find a Custom, SHORT bed fleetside...it's always a small window.

Etc., etc.,!

~I wanted one to restore stock, but if I found one without the orig, engine, I'd like to go ahead and make a nice custom out of it.
~Later (junk) engine / trans on this one, so that'd make that decision easy - it has a later 350, and 350 auto, it looks like. Installed wrong, needing better engine/trans anyway, and to be redone.

Here's the question:
I am not asking beginner "what's it worth?" questions, or asking if a roof CAN be fixed...it's just the one structural area I can't see being a fun one to tackle cutting out, and refitting RIGHT.

I won't do it myself,but what's the best approach?
Not looking for the "Rube Goldberg Approach" (i.e., cutting a hole inthis roof, and another, and just tacking it in...I can see that flexing when you open the windows on the freway, now! "BUMP!".

I have seen roof repairs that did that, so that's what I am worried about.

==I showed itthe pictures to one old-time body guy
...ShouldSaid kindof what I was thinking...
==it be taken back to the spotwelds at the pinch area along the top of the windshield and below driprail on sides, all around?

Then maybe drill the spot welds out of a donor roof, weld braces in the truck being worked on to prevent flexing, fit new one in place?
======
Truck...
~The best model it can be with all the inhernt value that comes right there.
~BED - EXCELLENT! (NO rust, not even in the wheel lips).
~Tailgate - great.
~Rear bumper and optional back up lights still there.
~All Custom Cab side and cab sail mouldings.
~*Doors excelent...small rust hole at front corner.
~*Fenders...usual lower rust. would find dry ones cheap.
~CAB=lower corners are solid, and rockers and floors!
~*Scrap small block. Truck wasn't cut up to install, though.
XXXXXX
~*ONLY BIG ISSUE...roof is full of bondo...and not a thin layer!
*SEE PIC! of the inside...you see the ends of BIG bolts, used to give the bondo something to "grip" onto up top! That must be THICK STUFF!

Of course the seller wanted to dismiss that as no big deal...but I don't know if it's worth it to tackle...is replacing this section a big mess?

I can find another roof...truck is $3k.

[SUBURBANlinoleum]

More pics...truck is nice, and I really do not see much of any body work To so...except that stupid roof.

Would've bought it already, if not for that!

Original ORANGE paint is visible all over through the old brown repaint.

Not bad. I dunno...thoughts?

[64GMCHorsepower]

Doesn't look too bad except for the roof......I'd cut and replace it with another.....if the bondo is that thick .....

Also, i'd check and make sure the few lug nuts that are there are tight.....only 4 on the one wheel......

Or you could just whack the roof off and make it a cruiser......

3k seems high to me, but it is a BIG window, and fleet, and has the chrome trim...

I assume it runs?

[SUBURBANlinoleum]

Anyone...?

[jonzcustomshop]

3 options.. find another 60-63 bbw roof and replace, or find a sbw good roof and re skin the outer, and weld in a new inner, refer to how I did the inner skin on mine on the 60 build in my sig.
you could also replace the roof with a sbw roof, while retaining your rear inner bbw skin.

I think 3k is what this would be worth if it was a good original truck that only needed minor work for a repaint..... I would probably offer 1/2 or 1/4 the asking price

[Oklahoma]

I will throw my 2 cents in also, 3k is too much in my opinion. I just saw one go for 1k, minus the engine and tranny, but most people replace them when they get a truck of that age anyways.

[JRBECK64]

You might want to post this question about the roof in the Paint and BodyWork Section just to get some Opinions on this from guys that deal with bodywork all the time. Without digging out all that bondo you never know what you got. Good Luck with it.
JRBECK64

[ChiefRocka]

I would go for it...but definately get rid of that 4-5-6 grill for the correct one....

[protrash64]

NO WAY, not 3k.....I agree with some of the other comments. Maybe 1.5K....if it was in absolutely perfect running condition and had the roof issue, maybe.

[markeb01]

You might want to take a look at the following thread to see what is involved with major roof surgery. Repairs can be very tedious and/or expensive unless you are capable of doing this level of work yourself:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...rill+spot+weld

Also - as 64GMC noted above, check those lug nuts if you decide to buy it. They appear to be mag wheel shank nuts. They need to be replaced with tapered seat lug nuts before the truck is transported or they could tear the lug holes out of the wheels, and damage the studs when they come loose.

[tapeworm]

You are down where the stuff is not rusty; I'd keep looking

Just to give you an idea, I paid 3K for a somewhat similar truck

64, shortwide, BBW, custom

better mechanicals;
mostly stock but healthy 350 (runs great)
dropped spindles, disc brakes

great roof, but the bottom half of the cab was tough; I am now in the process of patching a better SBW cab to use (keep in mind I am in the rust belt)

while I would say I don't regret the purchase, I wouldn't have bought it if I knew how
much hidden rust there was

[apachedaddy]

I paid 1500 for a 66 short-fleet-bbw and it was in a little better shape than the one you’re looking at. I even drove it home from the person's house I bought it from. I call it my fix it as I drive it truck. I made the mistake of blowing my 66 short-fleet-sbw about. I might be able to drive it by the time I’m collecting social security. Thats why i picked up the bbw truck for a DD.

[Shaky]

Here's what I had to do to my '67 that was nice other than a nasty dent in the roof:

[SUBURBANlinoleum]

Hmmm. What a waste. And funny - I was not even thinking abut the fact there is n INNER roof panel! Forgot - another rerason I posted this..."what am I not thinking of i the deal? thread.

And you can see in the pictures they FUBARed the inner panel, toto...with bolts through bothe layers (to grip the bondo, I guess!).

Must've been done in Tijuana!

Body (especially BED...is SO nice.
The only amage I vould not fix myself woulf have to be on the one panel that can't neatly be cut out and replaced! And (go ahead Las Vegas peopl, give me crap)...there is no one I know of here that could reattach it properly at the drip rails, etc. in Vegas.
I'd have to haul it to CA for the roof deal...FORGET it.

~Engine: write-off.
~Engine bracket set -up: Jerry-rigged...would have to buy the new aftermarket swap mounts ansd set it in right, so it isn't right by the firewall).
~Trans a good core, even...rebuilable? Who knows.
~Interior:1970s truck seat...so whether I want original or custome, I'd have to start looking right away...no original that at least looks right, as a backup plan IN it.
~Floors = exc.
~Dash...uncut, but window was open for years so I would not even rebuild those guages...I'd get better cores.
(this is anot a runner/project, by the way...for top dollar!).

[Bugeyev8]

I would just re skin the roof, unless you are good at shrinking and working metal, I ahve a feeling theyu were trying to stop the oil can effect on the roof, get a doner roof and take the time to remove the panel, I would cut the one on the truck as close to the spot welds as you can and then take a flap wheel grinder about 60 grit and grind the 1/4 inch metal where the spot welds are, it will turn blue when its almost thru, then use a wood chisel and a vise grip and roll the metal up like a tin can, I have done several this way with no damage to the panels , then on the doner cab trim the lower panel the same way, this way you can rent or borrow a spot welder and replicate the factory spot welds, unless you choose to glue the panel on...also a very good way and for that you would not want the spot weld drill holes in either panel, while the roof is off weld up the holes that dummy drilled for the bolts

looks like a great truck to me, I would pay 1500 for it..

[Shaky]

Originally Posted by SUBURBANlinoleum

Hmmm. What a waste. And funny - I was not even thinking abut the fact there is n INNER roof panel! Forgot - another rerason I posted this..."what am I not thinking of i the deal? thread.

The inner skin looks like it only needs the holes welded up. The outer needs re-skinning. I would list all the negatives and then make a low-ball offer. Engines and trannys come and go...

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Isn't NV one of those states where you've never seen rust before? Keep looking.
I live in the south where there's not a lot of rust, but some. And here 3k would be WAY too much for that truck.