Dual tank question.

[crossy's son]

LMC says the Left and right side tanks are the same? Is this true? How about the brackets, are they the same between sides? http://www.lmctruck.com/features/cc/CCGTK.htm

The truck is an 84 K10 w/ factory dual tanks. It's my buddies'.

The right side has been unhooked for years but has brand new gas tank and brand new GM NOS brackets,

The left side tank leaks like crazy and the brackets are completely rotted and tank is held up by bungie cords.....but for some reason the PO of the the truck installed the Holley Elec. fuel pump on that side and thats the side that gets used as the right side is completely disconnected......weird.

We want to swap the brackets and tank from the right side over to the left side...

thanks
Brandon

[joe231]

Yes the tanks and brackets are the same. The sending units are different though.

[crossy's son]

Wow that's awesome! thanks alot

We're going to swap the Right side tank and brackets to the left side but use the left hand side sending unit since it works good and everything.

When you are dropping the tank, does the bed have to be removed and sending unit removed from the top (cause it kinda locks in) or you can you drop the tank down enough to undo the sending unit real quick and then just pull the tank down?

[ray_mcavoy]

There is a minor difference with the tank brackets. The bolt pattern on the front bracket (if I remember correctly) isn't the same from side to side. I think the holes are there in the bracket for both left/right patterns but the welded-on nuts are only positioned over one set of side-specific holes. Newer GM service replacement (or aftermarket) tank brackets might have the nuts installed for both patterns though. Or, they'd be easy enough to weld on while you have the bracket off the tank.

You can remove the sending unit either way. If the bed-to-frame bolts aren't too rusty and you want easy access to the frame to do some other work, removing the bed is probably the best way to go.

But it is possible to unbolt the tank brackets from the frame and lower the tank down partway using a jack. Then, reach above the tank and unhook the hoses/wires from the sending unit. Finish lowering the tank down, and remove the sending unit.

[joe231]

you should be able to drop the tank enough to get the lines off and unplug the fuel gauge wire, then drop it on down to remove the sending unit.

[redneckchevy]

I droped the drivers side tank on my truck and put a new one back in, in the snow with just the rear wheel jacked up. so it is doable without pulling the bed.

[crossy's son]

You only had to jack the wheel up to get clearence right?

Truck is a stock 4x4 with 33's and it sits up pretty good so i'd imagine it's fine.....

I can weld whatever nut or whatever on the gas tank brackets...although i don't really understand because i've never looked under there good i'm sure i'll see when we get it apart.

[redneckchevy]

Yup, its a 2WD and i'm not the slimest guy there is so i needed a lil bit more room to work,

[ray_mcavoy]

I replaced the tank on my 77 plow truck without having to jack it up for clearance. It even sits a bit lower than most 4x4's because of all the extra weight in the bed for added traction. You should be fine on a truck with 33's.

Yeah, once you get the brackets out, you should be able to see the bolt pattern difference. They're arranged in sort of a trapezoid (not square) pattern so one or two (of the 4) weld-nuts won't line up with the bolt holes in the frame when you swap the brackets side to side. The bolt pattern on the rear brackets is square/rectangular so they swap sides no problem.

[tucsonjwt]

I concur with no need to take bed off. Use up as much gas as possible from the tank, move concrete blocks with 2x4 s, etc., on top to snug up against the bottom of the tank, back out the strap bolts, remove 2x4s one by one until you have the tank where you can unhook the electrical connections and ground, slide the tank out from under the truck, reinstall tank. Not as bad as it sounds, but wear safety goggles because dried mud will fall into your eyes. If sending unit needs new gasket, I would buy the GM OEM style, since I just don't like the generic fat o ring looks of the aftermarket ones.

[joe231]

Here is a write up with pics.
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/sm...p?topic=9294.0
it is on a newer truck with fuel injection but the mounting is the same.

[KrazyRay]

Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy

There is a minor difference with the tank brackets. The bolt pattern on the front bracket (if I remember correctly) isn't the same from side to side. I think the holes are there in the bracket for both left/right patterns but the welded-on nuts are only positioned over one set of side-specific holes. Newer GM service replacement (or aftermarket) tank brackets might have the nuts installed for both patterns though. Or, they'd be easy enough to weld on while you have the bracket off the tank.

You can remove the sending unit either way. If the bed-to-frame bolts aren't too rusty and you want easy access to the frame to do some other work, removing the bed is probably the best way to go.

But it is possible to unbolt the tank brackets from the frame and lower the tank down partway using a jack. Then, reach above the tank and unhook the hoses/wires from the sending unit. Finish lowering the tank down, and remove the sending unit.

I've pulled close to a hundred tank brackets and sold several on the parts board and I don't see any difference in the bolt pattern. I hope I'm right because I only have two piles of them (front ones and back ones). I have no complaints yet.

[crossy's son]

Man you guys are great. If there is a diff. in brackets, oh well.

Like i said, they are already aftermarket brackets so who knows, If i can't weld it up. I can throw my ole' man a nickel and he'll do it