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#1 |
Flamin' Bass
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Galloway, NJ, US
Posts: 315
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1st test drive - didn't make it home!!
Finally got the whole truck in primer, worked out all the leaks in the bags, and for the first trip on the road in 18 months, I was heading to the local custom muffler shop to get an exhaust system.
Never made it! On the 55mph highway for 3 miles, truck started slowing, and slowing..... then saw smoke. Pulled into a gas station with all 4 brakes locked, zero pedal travel. I did a search on "locked brakes" and most of the suggestions point to the prop valve as the most likely source of the problem. BTW; Brake system is original rear drums, with all new parts, hoses and lines. Front discs are from a '77 C-10(with power brakes). I DO NOT have the power brakes (the booster was missing from the junker, and I don't really like power, anyhow.) Questions: Is the prop from a power system the same as for a non-power system? Do I just need to 'reset' it by holding the pin/button in while I press the pedal? On a brighter note: the rear fuel tank and fender filler neck mod can take fuel as fast as they can pump it...... Thanks,
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Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!! |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Frisco, Tx, USA
Posts: 606
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AHHH, this sounds like a case of the brake lines too close to a heat source, like the exhaust. This assuming they un-locked after sitting for a while. Steering doesn't affect the prop valve, only the disc-drum or drum-drum or disc-disc combo matters.
So, what kind of fuel tank and filler setup do you have? Got pics?
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http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades. |
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#3 |
Flamin' Bass
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Galloway, NJ, US
Posts: 315
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Hey, Blue68, thanks for the reply. I'm still sitting here waiting for the brakes to cool down so I can crawl home. The brake lines and exhaust are in the same location as they were when I got the truck 1 1/2 years ago; I haven't changed anything there....Hmmmm
My question wasn't phrased too well, what I meant is: Is the prop valve from a power BRAKE system the same as one from a non-power brake system. The fuel tank is the poly Blazer type I got from one of the fine vendors on this board. The fuel filler door and neck is from a Mazda 323 and is patched into the side of my fender. Here's a pic I posted a few weeks ago.
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Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!! Last edited by nosto; 05-28-2003 at 03:37 PM. |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Frisco, Tx, USA
Posts: 606
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Yes, it will be the same. Its role in life is to ensure a 70/30 split (or so) between front and rear pressure. It's up to you to provide pressure if you don't have a booster.
Good luck on the crawl.
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http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades. |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 104
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I know of a guy who changed his front end out to get disk brakes. When he installed them he never put in the proportioning valve and he says it still stops alot better than it did with the drums and he is using manual brakes. I think he should have the prop valve to get full use out of his rear brakes though. You can always remove the part to see if that is the problem before you go buy a new one, but I would not go very fast or go anywhere that there is much traffic before I got the problem solved.
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#6 |
97' Tahoe 2dr/2wd
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Huffman,TX
Posts: 1,168
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are you sure that the front calipers aren't sticking?
stay off the freeway untill you figure out the problem... tommie |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Frisco, Tx, USA
Posts: 606
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He said all 4 brakes locked. The proportioning valve only trips and locks "out" the front or rear circuit so that they don't get fluid, in case of ruptured line you still have brakes.
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http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades. |
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#8 |
97' Tahoe 2dr/2wd
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Huffman,TX
Posts: 1,168
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how could you tell when driving that all 4 brakes locked up?
and not just the front or rear? i have never seen a proportioning valve cause all 4 wheels to gradually lock up. the most common thing i have seen lock up all 4 wheels when hot then release them when cold was contaminated brake fluid, usually it seems to have power steering fluid in it. just telling you what i have seen from experience. tommie |
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#9 |
CCRider
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA
Posts: 2,232
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If all four brakes are locked up I would be willing to bet it is a problem with the master cylinder. The brake system is too seperated for it to be anything else. I would first suspect a defective m/c or somthing in your pedal linkage that is not letting it return
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72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS |
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#10 | |
Flamin' Bass
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Galloway, NJ, US
Posts: 315
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Took another test run after dinner, same lack of forward progress after a few miles, but I made it home this time. Jacked up front, both wheels... locked tight....jacked up rear...they spun nicely. Hey, I THOUGHT all four were locked, oh well.
Then Tom Hand wrote... Quote:
Went through the '67 Service Manual for more clues, and ran into the section that says...."make sure there's 1/8" freeplay on the brake pedal at the MC rod". Mine was 0" freeplay, more like 1/2" pressing into the MC all the time. When I switched to a '77 MC, I didn't bother to readjust the rod. Needless to say, that was the problem. Backed the rod out 1/8" and drove 10 miles with no brake problems. ![]() Now, on to the next problem..... the backward wiper motor! Thanks for all your input on this, folks!
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Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!! |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,086
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You just gotta love that avatar!!! (LMAO)!!!!
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#12 |
Flamin' Bass
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Galloway, NJ, US
Posts: 315
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__________________
Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!! |
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#13 |
Designated A-hole!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: South Mississippi
Posts: 36,450
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Let me know what you do to fix your wiper!
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. ![]() We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
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#14 |
Weapons Of Construction
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 1,095
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My guess on the wiper motor is that you got the crank 180* out of phase on the motor.
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1971 GMC 2500, 402/TH400 4.10 Daily Driver Lafayette, CO |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Ridgecrest, CA
Posts: 318
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hey thats a cool site! I like the manta rays.........
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57 suburban(sitting in the driveway), 2 69 C20 longbeds (sitting in the field ) and a 2003 8.1 Suburban ![]() Endeavor to persevere. "All of a sudden, I'm the old timer!" Some old timer on American Pickers. |
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Morristown,TN
Posts: 482
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that's a bummer on the brakes hope you get it figured out.
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