My T-5 swap all done but got bad trany

[Blackjeep99]

Ok got It all tied up and runnin all seemd good but had a slite wine in 2nd and 3rd gear. It shifted well and drove well really like OD. By the next day took truck on a longer drive in to town 2rnd and 3rd started wineing and grinding sound now 1st 4th and 5th work great sound good and quiet so I pulled it out checked all the clutch, pilot, and Ds all were good. when I drained it had metal in it. SO. My quess is it was bad from the yard I got it from. So there supposed to get me another on mon. But all and all a great swap easily done with basic tools and knowledge. Just make sure u get a goot tranny lol. IF anybody near marion Oh has a 88 S-10 T-5 with mech speepo let me know I want to have a back up. Oh it went in a 69 swb GMC 350.

[LockDoc]

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I just finished mine up too. I'm going to put the seat in tonight and take it for the maiden voyage. I hope I have better luck than you did. I do have a spare though.

I put mine in my '67 LWB 6cyl, to replace the granny low 4 speed.

LockDoc

[Blackjeep99]

I hope u have better luck to. U should like it makes it like a new truck ez to drive first is a lil small thoi could take off in 2nd ez nuff. When I first tryd driveing it I had to put it in reverse with the moter off then 3rd was the only gear I could get till it got warmed up. But then it was fine and shifted well but had the wine then it got worse. Still waiting on the yard to get me another. Well good luck and let me know how it gos.

[DustyC10]

How do you tell those 5 speeds apart? I have one out of a 90 S10, all aluminum case (one piece bellhousing/trans case), takes a slave cylinder... I know its the lighter duty one, but I was thinking of swapping it into my truck but the slave cylinder threw me for a snag...

[slomotion]

You guy's are using ATF right?

[Blackjeep99]

The T-5 will not have a bell on it it will be able to bolt up to a bell houseing like a 3sp. What u probly have is a 5lm60 out of a full size truck it is a NV3500 wich a is good trAns. The slave problem can be solved by geting a clutch master cylinder from LLC or CPP they have them with. Brake master cylinders. Another problem is the speedo it has an elec one you can fix this but it will cost around 300 for the conversion box. I have the same prob
lem with the S-10 T-5 if u get aT-5 get one from an 88 or older truck as they will have the mechanical speedo.

[Blackjeep99]

U bet I did I even filled it ran it for 30 or so miles drained it and replaced it wit new. O and don't use synthtic. I've herd it will not shift if u do

[DustyC10]

Originally Posted by Blackjeep99

The T-5 will not have a bell on it it will be able to bolt up to a bell houseing like a 3sp. What u probly have is a 5lm60 out of a full size truck it is a NV3500 wich a is good trAns. The slave problem can be solved by geting a clutch master cylinder from LLC or CPP they have them with. Brake master cylinders. Another problem is the speedo it has an elec one you can fix this but it will cost around 300 for the conversion box. I have the same problem with the S-10 T-5 if u get aT-5 get one from an 88 or older truck as they will have the mechanical speedo.

Ah, I'll have to do some research then, I know it came from a 91 S10 (I parted the truck). Just trying to learn about what I have, I'll probably sell mine off, going with a 5.3/4L60E swap in my 67, so I am selling off parts like crazy, lol

[Blackjeep99]

That's a good moter trans combo my dad wishis he wood of done that he has a 57 chevy swb 350 700 R4 wit fuel inj and 9in rear. The trans u have is worth round hear in oh bout 500.00 toi 650.00 so get what its worth

[LockDoc]

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Well the test went off with no problems. Runs and shifts like a dream. I need to adjust the clutch a little, I think I have a little too much free travel. Low gear isn't bad in mine but my truck is a 3/4 ton with a 4:10 rear.

I have Amsoil synthetic ATF in mine. I'll let you know if I have any shift problems. That's what was recommended for my T-5 on the Amsoil web site.

LockDoc

[tkeduk8r]

Leon,
Can you post some pics of your install???? shifter, seat etc????
Thanks from a friend to the north!!!
--Mike

[Zeke's Garage]

Did you have to add/modify the crossmember for your swap? I've got the inline 6 with a 3 speed in mine and the transmission isn't supported in the rear. So when I put my T-5 in I'm not really sure what to expect. My T-5 does have two braces that run from the bottom middle up to what looks to be the bottom of the bell housing. I guess I won't really know until I start putting it in.

[Blackjeep99]

I had a 3sp in mine too it also did not have a cross member I didn't put one in I was going to see hw it drove first. It seemed ok without it but I only drove around 70 miles in 2 days. I don't think I'm gona put one in. Unless I notice vibration or anything else.

[LockDoc]

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I'll post up some pics if it ever stops raining... Mine had braces on it too but with the bell housing mounts I don't think you have to have the braces or a rear tranny mount...

LockDoc

[raycow]

Blackjeep, I see several potential problem areas that will cause exactly the trouble you are describing, and it's not the fault of the transmission. Please answer the following questions.

1. Do you have a stock 69 truck bellhousing? If not, what kind?

2. Did you use a step ring on the front bearing retainer (or pressed into the bellhousing center hole)?

3. Did you use a spacer plate between the transmission and bellhousing?

4. Did you shorten the input shaft and the bearing retainer snout?

Ray

[Oil Can Larry]

Originally Posted by raycow

Blackjeep, I see several potential problem areas that will cause exactly the trouble you are describing, and it's not the fault of the transmission. Please answer the following questions.

1. Do you have a stock 69 truck bellhousing? If not, what kind?

2. Did you use a step ring on the front bearing retainer (or pressed into the bellhousing center hole)?

3. Did you use a spacer plate between the transmission and bellhousing?

4. Did you shorten the input shaft and the bearing retainer snout?

Ray

raycow, Sounds like you know a little something about this type of swap. What are the steps to ensure the swap goes well? I understand there is an aftermarket spacer plate necessary, as the input shaft is longer on the T-5. Is this correct? What else do I need to know?

[slomotion]

Raycow, I'm curious too. I put a T5 behind a 292, and did need to make up a spacer to center-up the trans front bearing retainer in the bell housing, but I'm under the impression that your #3 & #4 is an either/or. Personally, I cut my pilot bearing (In the flywheel) down to a heavy 1/2", and drove it deep into the flywheel, while cutting about 1/4 inch off of the end of the trans input shaft. These three mods allowed the trans to fit up with no problems.
I had to do something with the mounting bolts....can't remember exactly what it was, and at the moment am too lazy to crawl under the truck and look....
Two of the pics show the spacer, and the one with the mirror was checking to make sure the splines weren't bottomed out against the pilot bushing. (Obviously, this has to be done before the clutch and pressure plate is installed.)

[sourkraut]

i had used a nv3500 in mine and everything has worked great so far. used the auto crossmember, had to move it back but worked great. found a master clutch cylinder that has boltable ear tabs not the plastic snap one. have good clutch action and it engages about half pedal. hooked the mc upto the original clutch setup so no have mods. the only think was i had to get a shortened driveshaft made. which was like $200 for new everything from scratch, so not bad but one point to know going into it. here is a couple pics but can check them all out at my build thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=359200

you can see in the one picture that i used a peice of stock to take up the slack between the mc and clutch pedal difference.

[sourkraut]

one more of how the clutch stop with brace and powdercoated and rebuilt. when brake pedal is hooked up they are in the exact same position and look equal from the seat, so no feet fumbling between them.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by tkeduk8r

Leon,
Can you post some pics of your install???? shifter, seat etc????
Thanks from a friend to the north!!!
--Mike

Hey mike, I got some pics taken. I bent the shift lever straight up from where the sharp bend was and it worked pretty good. It isn't as close to the dash as it looks. The shifter on it now is off of a full size pickup 5 speed and it is too big to screw on the shaft. I just slid it down over the shift lever so I could test drive it.

The yellow circle shows where the original shifter hole was and the new hole is about 8-1/4" back.

LockDoc

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Oil Can Larry

What are the steps to ensure the swap goes well? I understand there is an aftermarket spacer plate necessary, as the input shaft is longer on the T-5. Is this correct? What else do I need to know?

Oil Can, on the S-10 T-5 both the input shaft and the bearing retainer are too long. When I did my swap I cut down the interfering parts so I didn't need the spacer plate. The plate will accomplish the same result in less time for more money.

The most important step is to bolt up the transmission without the clutch. This will let you see if and where any interference is occurring. The input shaft must be able to turn easily by hand with the mounting bolts fully tightened. Once the shaft turns freely, unbolt the transmission and re-install it with the disc (only) on the shaft. Turn the disc to make sure it doesn't rub against the end of the bearing retainer or drag on the flywheel because it has run out of spline length on the shaft. If the disc turns freely you can unbolt the transmission for the last time and complete the clutch installation.

Everything else is pretty much the same as for any other transmission swap. You will have to locate and cut the shifter hole and you will need a suitable driveshaft. On some installations you may need a longer speedo cable.

Ray

[raycow]

Originally Posted by slomotion

Raycow, I'm curious too. I put a T5 behind a 292, and did need to make up a spacer to center-up the trans front bearing retainer in the bell housing, but I'm under the impression that your #3 & #4 is an either/or. Personally, I cut my pilot bearing (In the flywheel) down to a heavy 1/2", and drove it deep into the flywheel, while cutting about 1/4 inch off of the end of the trans input shaft. These three mods allowed the trans to fit up with no problems.
I had to do something with the mounting bolts....can't remember exactly what it was, and at the moment am too lazy to crawl under the truck and look....

Slomotion, you are absolutely right. #3 & #4 are alternatives. I asked about both just to find out if Blackjeep did one or the other.

When I installed my T-5 I did pretty much the same as you. I did several test fit-ups without the clutch so I could see where the interference was. First was the shaft pilot bottoming out in the crank. Next was the shaft shoulder up against the pilot bushing. Last was the end of the bearing retainer against the clutch disc hub. I know the spacer plate would have solved all of those problems, but I am an old-school rodder and like to do that kind of stuff myself.

On the mounting bolts, you may have needed to enlarge the holes in the ears because the bolts wouldn't go through. Also, I had to use allen head bolts because there wasn't enough room to get a socket on the hex heads.

Ray

[Blackjeep99]

Yes I shortened the output shaft and the bearing retainer shaft. Did several mock ups before the final assembly all was good. As I said before I only had problems with 2nd and 3rd gear making a wining sound 1st 4th and 5th gear were all normal as they should be. I got another trans hope to have it in tonite. Will let everyone know how it goes.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Blackjeep99

Yes I shortened the output shaft and the bearing retainer shaft.

Ok, that takes care of the input shaft length, although I am unclear about why you would need to do anything to the output shaft. Now did you install a step ring? Without that, you have no way to insure that the transmission is centered on the crankshaft and you can still have the problems you described. In one of your posts you mentioned not being able to get the transmission into gear from a standstill unless you shut the engine off. This is very typical of an alignment issue.

Ray

[Blackjeep99]

Ya sorry I menT input shaft. Just woke up and rePlied lol. No I did not use a step ring where can I get one at? The only time I had trouble geting it in gear was the first start up after that never a problem shifting. I have origa bell in my truck. Let me no about the step ring would like to have one thanx.