New Member Wants Your Opinion On First Purchase!

[SLS]

Hello, fellow classic Chevy truck lovers!


I am SLS and have been 'lurking' this board for quite some time...gathering up precious info on what has been a long time dream of mine-fixing up an old Chevy truck.

First I want to say that this board is FANTASTIC and the wealth of info (and humorous stories) is awesome. Thank you all for sharing and contributing. I too (with trial, error, money, blood, sweat , and tears) hope to become a contributor as well.


I have been searching for a 67-72 for 3 years now...no hurry, just scoping, learning, and saving my dough for the day I found my 'pet project'. Today might have been just that day...thus I am now registering and pestering you experts.


Here is my predicament:


While off on my ritual Sunday cruise, searching the backroads of rural Tennessee I spotted yet another candidate for my loving attention and money spending. I have looked at many but this one just may be 'the one'....so I humbly ask for your opinions.


It is a 1971 Cheyenne shortbed that came with A/C from the factory. It has a 350/350 Turbo combination that are NOT the originals. It has power disc brakes and power steering. It has a coil-over rear suspension. No clue as to the gearing in the differential or if it is a posi or not. The owner says they came out of a Z-28 (4 bolt) but I know that the first generation Z's were 302's....so who knows? The engine sounds great and transmission performs well (although the rear trans seal is seeping a little). The drive shaft is out of balance so it may have to go...or it could be the U-Joints.


Like almost all the other trucks I've looked at this one has the dreaded rust problems. The rockers have been patched already (as well as several other places on the body) but the tops were still solid and the patched places were rather small...but still I want to replace them. The cab corners appeared solid but I did not take a magnet to them...so they may have been repaired before the current paint job (which is trashed yellow). There is no carpet and just a couple of very small rust holes in the left floor panel (not mush bigger than a dime). The doors are rough and the windshield is cracked...but the owner has a solid set of door shells and a new windshield that are a part of the deal. I will want to find a good tailgate too...this one is shot along it's lower edge.

Mainly it is the bed itself that is the real bummer. The inner and outer sides are not too bad an appear to never have been hit...but the floor has some 'hole' issues where the bed meets the cross support (dont they all?). One of the holes has even eaten completely through the cross brace. Boo!

Like I said earlier, this one came from the factory with air (round vents on dash corners...not underdash add on type) and everything appears to be intact...except the compressor itself. Another boo!


My question is this:

With the above described condition is $2000 too much to pay? I get 2 door shells and a new window...but there is quiet a bit to do (and spend) to get it 'right'. I am willing and able to bring this truck back to life if it is worth it. For some reason I'm thinking a '71 Cheyenne Shortbed with factory AC, Power disc brakes, and power steering is a desirable and worthy candidate...............

What do you guys think????

Money pit! Run away!

OR......

Go for it, dude!




Thanks for reading this long-winded post. Hopefully I will be making shorter post from here on out.....but this one is important to me. I've been looking (and saving) for a long time. I really don't want to blow it. The fellow who is selling it has "gotten in over his head" and lacks the time and doughnuts to DO IT RIGHT. Should I give it a shot?

[GMC71k20]

if your willin to take on the rust id say go for it. dont be too pissed about the missing compressor, havent seen many with them, which makes me wonder were do they actually go?

[Blue Beard]

If the rust is bad enough you may want to stay away.

Has a lot of good options, but I wouldn't want to spend that kind of money on something that needs that much work.

Lot of good trucks offered here on the board..............

Just my .02.............

[old Rusty C10]

sounds a bit over priced for my blood i see plenty of trucks on the board going for five to nine hundred less

[72MARIO]

Keep in mind that a new gate is about 250-300 us and the fit is Crappy. Check at the top of the windshield that there is no rust there. Short Sides are hard to find Wood Floor converson would be the best way to fix the floor. I dont know about the price. 1800 Sounds alot better. Are the doors new ? that would make it work the full asking price to me.

Good Luck.

[jhwkns]

Welcome from Nevada. $2000 seems a little high. It's too bad there is so much rust.

[SLS]

Thanks for the replies so far, fellows.

I am willing to replace the doors, fenders, fenderwells, floor pans, rockers and such (as needed).....but the bed floor has me worried.

I have already compiled a list of prices for the major body parts by perusing the awesome vendors list here on this board.

I will be fixing it up to use as a work truck..but for the present time is not an issue as I already have a good work truck anyway. I just love them ol' Chebbies though!


I got a sneaky feeling that this one would end up practically disassembled as I will be going to a red paint (matches my lawn companys color scheme).

I will look into the trucks for sale here. Thanks for the tip!

[SLS]

72MARIO:

The windshield top and driprail areas appear solid.

The doorshells are not new...but looked to be straight, rustfree, and solid.



Errr........where is the link to get to the 'trucks for sale' area???

[Randy70C-10]

That price isn't all THAT bad, especially for a Cheyenne with a shortbed. As long as the rust is in low areas it's usually an easy repair. Rusted out windshield frames and roofs are a pain in the ass. I've seen people pay more for less.

[Vince M]

I've got to agree that the price is a bit high but then again shortbeds demand more than longbeds. I wouldn't worry too much about the floor as it is easier to fix than the cab rust. As stated you can convert it to a wood bed. Buy the floor supports, wood, strips, and front bed panel and away you go.
I think you have to look at what kind of money you want to spend to fix it up...or buy one already done. I know 10k for a truck sounds high but I know that I have alot more than than in one of mine and it is not even close to being done. You have to weigh that for yourself.
At some time though you have to stop looking and go for it.

[krue]

I think that is a little high myself! Check around the parts board a little and see what you find.

[onetoncrewcab]

Gotta agree with the rest of the members. To me it seems a little high. Got a digital camera to post some pics of the truck? That would help greatly.
Later
Mike
PS...oh yeah...welcome to the board!

[Class of 69]

Glad to see you came out of the shop, so to speak!! To many of us, the bed seems to be the least of the worries. cab rust is more work to repair. The beds are a bolt together affair that most any mechanic can handle. You might get lucky and find a replacement floor on the board! I assume it's steel now?? To convert it to wood, is around $1,200.00 for everything needed. Keep in mind that is parts only! YOU get to assemble, and seal the floor! With all that said... Do you think the seller would lower the price, if he knew you were serious? Even a few hundred dollars less makes it more worth it, and you could use that money to start the resto!! Good Luck on your decision, and DO keep us posted!

[BIG ORANGE]

Well first Welcome to the board,second dont buy it,the price is to high and there's more trucks out there in better shape for less money,besides why your looking you can still be saving your money. Good Luck!

[SLS]

Thanks for all the input, guys!


I guess after spending a couple of years looking at plain jane C-10 longbed rust buckets with NO options and plenty of lifter clatter in the $1500-$2500 range....this one got my heart pitter-pattering a bit.

Maybe it's a 'southern guy/pickup truck thang.....be it seems everyone in this neck of the woods are asking this price range for trucks in worse shape. We love our trucks and our dogs...and maybe we tend to overvalue them. Maybe I just need to move.


Keep those valued opinions coming.....I really do appreciate hearing from you all.

If it is nice (sunny) tomorrow I can go back and snap a few pics and snatch the casting numbers off the engine. Unfortunately, I forgot to take my handy VIN plate/glove box sticker decoder sheet with me today....and I need to go back and further inspect this truck anyway (with a calmer HEARTBEAT). Maybe I can talk the seller down a bit.

Thanks again!


Class of 69:

Yep, the bed floor is the original steel one...except where the holes are.......

[progress]

Welcome from Kent, WA. Here's another for your notebook...short fleetsides seem to be the most sought after, next is the short stepside. A friend just bought a running plain jane '69 short stepside, I-6, 3-speed and drove it home for $500. Clean truck that a guy was using for a daily work truck. The short fleet with all those options ought to be worth $1500. You can learn to weld and fix all those bad sections. Like you say this is not going to be a show truck...it is going to be a work truck. Just my .02.

[Longhorn Man]

Well, up here in cantral Ohio, a short bed is unheard of, and I have people willing to pay through the nose for my short bed turd.
With that being said, in my area, that truck sounds liek a decent price.
However, if you have some cash hidden, and you are willing to drive a day out and a day back, you can get something with practicly no rust, and be ahead in the game.
Oh, and welcome from Ohio.

[Billy G]

Welcome to the BOARD SLS!!!
I too have found the comments VERY USEFUL and educating.
I just bought a 70 GMC w/250 6....3 sp...in what I called decent shape for $600. I jumped on it.....cause like you I hadnt seen any that I THOUGHT were worth the money asked. Main thing is that you get what YOU feel GOOD about getting...
just my 2 bits worth!!

GOOD LUCK!!!

[SEVEND2]

Welcome to the Boards From So.Calif
check these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=39409

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=39409

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=39409

just some ideas, but i am sure you want to buy close to you though

[SLS]

SEVEND2:

Thanks for posting the links from eBay. Looking at those trucks makes me have a bit more hope for the Cheyenne I'm considering...at least it has both front and rear chrome bumpers (in nice shape), electronic ignition installed (MSD..I think it said), and a fine set of WIDE aftermarket aluminum wheels (can't remember the brand.....began with an "E" I think) and FAT radial tires, and headers, pipes, and mufflers that are less than one year old....and the short bed.

Dang, it's funny how comparing with other trucks can jog the memory.

I got to get back up there tomorrow and see what else I might have forgotten.


longhornmail sez:

" Well, up here in cantral Ohio, a short bed is unheard of..."

Yeah, they are about as rare as hens teeth around here too...and finding one that came with the factory A/C is even harder. I've probably looked at over 50 trucks around middle Tennessee, So. Kentucky...and this is the first one I have seen with this combo (shortbed/AC) that was not already graced with a frame-off...and carrying a price tag that approached the sky.


Billy G:

I hear you. I showed my wife a couple of back-issues of Hemmings with some comparable optioned Cheyennes (totally restored, of course) and she said "go for it, baby!" I think she plans on stealing it from me already.



Decisions, decisions........

[Randy70C-10]

Please don't anyone take offense to this, but you guys from South Dakota and Nevada have an over-abundance of rust free metal. It's no wonder that you think $2000 is high. For us guys that live in the rust belt, we're lucky if it even runs for that kind of money.

[wnc mountain]

Sounds like an OK deal, 1500 would be better. Again like others say it really is hard to say without looking at it. But, in my opinion, I would not look at the options it has to closely. A/C can be added and that one is missing parts, the 350 is not origianal, and may be a 305, you can buy a truck for 500 without a motor and put one in for the 1500 diff. This truck has been painted, what are they hidding with the paint.

My point is, if you are not looking to restore, don't worry to much about options, they can be added. look more at the truck itself and the body, and what is involved.

PS check the 67-72 parts board for trucks for sale at the top of the page.

[jku72]

This is my opinion only, but... I have found that it is WAY easier, and cheaper, to get a western truck and pay extra to ship it back. Restorations, partularly rust, will run you in the thousands anyway, even for a truck that looks okay. On a western truck, bolts will turn instead of snapping off. So, even if you have to replace a fender on an AZ truck, its just unbolting, painting, and bolting on a new one. On eastern trucks I've owned, usually what happens is that after breaking off or stripping half the bolts, you find nasty rust surprises underneath, and a much bigger job than you hoped for. I personally think its well worth an extra thousand to ship an otherwise equal truck from some dry place. My Longhorn and Sub, as well as the Pontiac and 40 Chevy all come from out west. ALL my eastern trucks, cars are(were) 10 times harder to work on. I won't buy another vehicle from east of the Mississippi. If you have a week or two, take the train out and drive back. Then it costs not much more. I drove back 3 out of 4, choosing to ship the 1940 Chevy, rather than drive that one. The others all drove back with no problem.

[SLS]

wnc mountain:

Thanks for the tips. I agree with all that you are saying. I have padded my 'truck account' a bit in anticipation of those nasty surprises...and it is another reason as to why I have 'passed' on so many others. I'll be hooking up with the owner this afternoon (this time with coveralls on and mirror and magnet in pocket!) to really try and spend time combing and decoding. I'm thinking that I might should just take $1600-$1750 cash and let that be my final offer if the closer checkout goes smoothly. I'm in no hurry to purchase (or fix).



jku72:

I really, really, really like your idea of heading to dryer climates and spending the time just looking and kicking tires (sound like a dream right now) but I cannot do this due to my occupation. I am a solo-operator Lawn Care guy (yeah, I mow grazz) but have established my business to the point that every day I am not chopping, ferting, trimming bushes, ect it cost me from $350 to $500 smackers. This is also my peak working season so to take a break for a week would not only make my clients upset....it would also cost me roughly $2000 in lost revenue......and thats a lot of new sheetmetal for a hard weeks work.

Maybe I should head west this winter instead of the usual fishing in the Keys..............hmmmmm.....


Thanks again for all of your valuable input. my fellow Chevy freaks!

[Number98]

Welcome to the board man. Heres the deal I am from the southeast and realize that a good "rust free" truck is like a unicorn... you know and illusion of sorts. Well anyway the first 67-72 I bought was $2600 and I thought I had gotten a deal on it but the cab turned out to be a bit more rusty when I tore into it. The rear window lip was rusted and some around the front too. I dont want to ramble but I ended up having to search around out west for a good cab and that ended up costing me. The mid western guys have great sheetmetal so they kinda have it made. I am just trying to say that it may be best to keep looking and try to find as nice of a truck as you can, somewhere there is a nice little shortbed that some old guy has kept in his garage, or at least under a carport that will be less of a headache and make a nice truck for you.

Jason