Coil cutting and smaller shocks

[slapthefunkyfour]

I've got a '66 C20. I plan on cutting a coil off the front tonight when I get home from work.

I was wondering if anyone else has done this and then still used the stock size shocks? I'm guessing that the stock shocks will still work, since I'm not dropping it very far.

How much drop can I expect with cutting 1 coil out? 1.5 coils out?

I'm also wondering, how long did it take you to do it? I'm hoping I can finish it in one night.

In the rear, I'm just going to put 2" blocks under the axle. Somebody on here did a really good write up about how they did theirs, so I'm gonna attempt the same thing.






edit: whoops, I swear I put this in the suspension section. Mods, feel free to move this to where it belongs.

[oldblue1968chevy]

I think if you cut front coils you need an alignment, i started a thread on 'whats procedure for cutting front springs', someone had a good way to diy alignment, search it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by slapthefunkyfour

I've got a '66 C20. I plan on cutting a coil off the front tonight when I get home from work.

I was wondering if anyone else has done this and then still used the stock size shocks? I'm guessing that the stock shocks will still work, since I'm not dropping it very far.

How much drop can I expect with cutting 1 coil out? 1.5 coils out?

I'm also wondering, how long did it take you to do it? I'm hoping I can finish it in one night.

In the rear, I'm just going to put 2" blocks under the axle. Somebody on here did a really good write up about how they did theirs, so I'm gonna attempt the same thing.

Stock shocks may/may not still work. I did spindles & cut one coil off the springs on two of my trucks (my 68 & the 74). Both front suspensions are basically the same thing. The 68's shock travel dimensions (the distance between the upper mounting & lower mount positions) allowed using the stock style shock as is. The 74 required relocating the upper shock mount 1.5" higher to keep the shock travel dimensions in the sweet spot.

You should be good to try it out & see. The shocks (even if they're too short) should work for a few days until you can swap some others in that are better suited.

Cutting 1-coil will typically yield between 2-3" of drop. It depends how much sag the spring currently has. A good rule of thumb is 1-coil = @ least 2" of drop.

Pulling & cutting coils can be done in an evening if everything cooperates. Sometimes, 40+ year old truck parts don't agree w/this concept so it's best to set aside a Sat/Sun just in case . You will definitely need an alignment after....

[slapthefunkyfour]

Thanks for the replies.

I did it last night. I ran into some troubles, but it only took me about 2 hours.

I only cut 1 coil, and it dropped about 1.5"-2". Maybe tonight I'll cut off the bump stops and cut another coil. So far it seems like the stock shocks are still fitting well. I took a long test drive, and the alignment still feels dead on.

Let's see if I can find the pics I took.

[slapthefunkyfour]

Before pics.

Right side:


Left side:


I forgot to take after pics. I'll do that tonight. Both fenders are sitting about 32" now. I do have pretty tall tires right now, the next set will be a couple inches shorter.

[SCOTI]

I don't recommend cutting more than 1-coil as the springs are short enough @ that point that if/when the front suspension extends enough, the springs can fall out.

If you cut a coil, the alignment has changed. It might be 'good enough', but it's not right.

[slapthefunkyfour]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I don't recommend cutting more than 1-coil as the springs are short enough @ that point that if/when the front suspension extends enough, the springs can fall out.

If you cut a coil, the alignment has changed. It might be 'good enough', but it's not right.

Yeah, I guess you're right. The tires are still have perfect "toe", but the camber/caster is probably way off and my new tires will wear out very quick. Luckily, I still have a month left before the first car show, so I have time to get a real alignment done.

[chevyrestoguy]

Cutting 1-coil will typically yield between 2-3" of drop. It depends how much sag the spring currently has. A good rule of thumb is 1-coil = @ least 2" of drop.

That's exactly what I have found as well.

Maybe tonight I'll cut off the bump stops and cut another coil

I would recommend only doing half coils from now on until you get it where you want it, even though it's more work. If you go a full coil, you will find that the drop ratio will be greater than what you saw when you cut the first coil. Two full coils is a lot and the ride will definately suffer. Maybe drop spindles are in your future?

[slapthefunkyfour]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

That's exactly what I have found as well.



I would recommend only doing half coils from now on until you get it where you want it, even though it's more work. If you go a full coil, you will find that the drop ratio will be greater than what you saw when you cut the first coil. Two full coils is a lot and the ride will definately suffer. Maybe drop spindles are in your future?

I think drop spindles are definitely in my future.

Yes, I think a1/2 coil is smarter.


How does everyone else remove the springs? I just removed the 4 nuts and bolts holding the inside of the lower control arm, the swaybar bracket, and the lower shock mount, and it came out very easy.

[chevyrestoguy]

I just removed the 4 nuts and bolts holding the inside of the lower control arm, the swaybar bracket, and the lower shock mount, and it came out very easy.

Man, you've got guts! That spring is under tremendous pressure and your removal method is very very risky. Here's what I do: Put your floor jack under the lower control arm and apply enough pressure to slightly compress the coil spring. Loosen/remove the shock, and disconnect the sway bar. Unbolt the clamp securing the brake line but do not disconnect the brake line. Undo the cotter keys on the upper and lower spindle nuts. Loosen the spindle nuts to where the end of the nut is flush to the end of the balljoint. Using a large mini-sledge, give the edge of the spindle a couple of good whacks and the balljoint will seperate from the spindle. The reason for leaving the nuts loose and not removing them is a safety issue just in case the floor jack fails and the whole assembly comes flying apart. You can also use a pickle fork, which is essentially a wedge designed to force the spindle away from the balljoint. These forks are available at any auto parts store. The only disadvantage to using a fork is that they have a tendency to tear the balljoint boots, especially if they are old. Once the balljoint seperates at the spindle, maintain pressure on the floor jack and remove the nuts completely. After that, lower the floorjack slowly and the springs will relax and the lower control arm will drop and you can reach in and pull the coil out.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Man, you've got guts! That spring is under tremendous pressure and your removal method is very very risky. Here's what I do: Put your floor jack under the lower control arm and apply enough pressure to slightly compress the coil spring. Loosen/remove the shock, and disconnect the sway bar. Unbolt the clamp securing the brake line but do not disconnect the brake line. Undo the cotter keys on the upper and lower spindle nuts. Loosen the spindle nuts to where the end of the nut is flush to the end of the balljoint. Using a large mini-sledge, give the edge of the spindle a couple of good whacks and the balljoint will seperate from the spindle. The reason for leaving the nuts loose and not removing them is a safety issue just in case the floor jack fails and the whole assembly comes flying apart. You can also use a pickle fork, which is essentially a wedge designed to force the spindle away from the balljoint. These forks are available at any auto parts store. The only disadvantage to using a fork is that they have a tendency to tear the balljoint boots, especially if they are old. Once the balljoint seperates at the spindle, maintain pressure on the floor jack and remove the nuts completely. After that, lower the floorjack slowly and the springs will relax and the lower control arm will drop and you can reach in and pull the coil out.

No need to loosen the upper BJ. Loosen the lower, whack the spindle to unseat the BJ, & slowly lower the a-arm releasing pressure off of the coil spring.

[slapthefunkyfour]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

snip

Originally Posted by SCOTI

No need to loosen the upper BJ. Loosen the lower, whack the spindle to unseat the BJ, & slowly lower the a-arm releasing pressure off of the coil spring.

That is an excellent idea. I like to do things safely. I forgot to put in my previous post that I did have the jack under the control arm when I undid the nuts. Your way is far easier, I only have to worry about lining up 1 bolt hole instead of 4.

[chevyrestoguy]

Yeah, you're right. I'm so used to swapping spindles that I gave you my "spindle swap" tip instead. If you're just cutting coils, then there's no need to loosen the top nut.