suspension choices

[hsdropout]

I am getting ready to fit up the 350/TH350 to new tube crossmembers.........
I have been told to keep dist. about 3/4" off front of firewall (to allow adjusting it) and set motor 2 degrees motor "nose up". I assume that is 2 degrees of a level frame? Center up everything but don't have drive line perfectly in-line horizontally with tranny, apparently the u-joint need that bit of angle to wear properly? [I]Any input very much appreciated.
Also starting to think about suspension upgrades. Want to keep the straight axle and go with front disc brakes and mono-leafs all around. The vendor has a kit that includes proper length shocks and lowers front about 3" and rear about 4" (since stock sat a bit high in back).
My question is, does this cause any interference with front steering? and, anybody have this set up and wish they had done differently? I am not really looking for sports car handling, just a decent ride with a little lower than stock ride stance.
Once I get motor/tranny mount located, I'm taking of the cab to clean up the chassis. I have the front fender, hood, etc. off and ready to get blasted & primed. Thanks, (I posted in newmember area yesterday) :J

[wigadore]

hsdropout,

I had the same motor cross member you had once and if I remember correctly the 2 or 3degree angle for the motor was already built into the cross member. If you level out the chassis, install the cross member level you should have the correct angle for the motor.

On another note...perhaps it is my eyes, but I think you have the motor cross member in backwards.

[hsdropout]

The crossmember is totally adjustable....just sitting roughly in place.
The main tube has larger pieces of tube that slip over ends with flat plates, so you can spin it or expandit out to the frame and bolt or weld into place.
I will probably bolt them to keep in place and the pull motor/tranny and weld up.
It seems a bit flimsy if you were to have 600 hp or some monster motor...I just plan on a mild build on the 350. It is a 4 bolt main originally put in high performance trucks (according to the motor number), 1968 I believe.
Thanks for taking a look Wigadore, any help is appreciated. I didn't get any directions with the mounts, they just came with the basket, and I would like to get it right the first time.

[mr48chev]

Unless there is limited room at the front of the engine for fan clearance I would want it a bit further away from the firewall. Having spent the first 30 years of my adulthood working on cars and trucks for a living or teaching the same I like room to work under the hood and behind the engine. Maybe one of the guys with a factory 56 V8 truck can show a photo of how his engine sits in the engine compartment with measurements and reference points.

Most of us usually set a level on the carb mounting surface of the intake manifold when we are setting the engine up in the chassis.
But if you did set the rear mount just a frog hair low you could shim the trans mount when the truck was all together to get the carb mounting surface level. That would be better than setting it up on the nose right now and then having the carb mounting surface running down hill towards the front of the engine when the truck was altogether.

I don't think a dropped axle or custom dropped springs will make any big issues with the steering as long as you have the alignment set up right. On an I beam axle too wide of front tires or too much offset on the rims is probably a bigger problem with handling. Those trucks with big steam roller tires and I beam axles can be a real handful on the road.

[Tchia65]

Yes you want 2-3 degrees tail down on you're drive train at least that's what the factory sets the angle at but you can very a little bit. Basically you want the carburetor mounting surface to be level with the chassis. Yes you want 1 degree difference between the drive train and the rear end so the bearings rotate in the u-joint. For instance; if your motor is 3 degrees down, you want your pinion 2 degrees up. Jack your rear end up to normal ride height. Figure out how many degrees the pinion is up now. Then mount your motor cross member where you want it and install the engine with a jack under the tranny. Then you can adjust the mounting of the transmission cross member to give you you're 1 degree split from you're pinion.

[hsdropout]

Thanks, I also found the attached sketch to be helpful.
I just don't know what will change when I install the mono-leaf lowering kit.
I would think the two angle would remain the same or close regardless. And as said, I can put the tranny mount to bottom of frame and shim down if needed.
Also attached some pix of some random '59s and color on a forum members '56? that I found & I like, I call it burnt cherry rust (scha-weet!). I better check to see excactly what color that is.......Rather ironic to remove all rust and then paint it rust colored.
Not sure why I am concerned with colors at this point.