67 chevy shortbed resurection

[michaelnolimit]

good morning. My name is Michael and i have worked for No Limit Eng. for going on four years now. Parts production manager is my title and keeping the shelves fully stocked is my game. When I get a chance i also get to do product installs. Last night a customer dropped of his tired 67 chevy shortbed. This moring I took it for a test ride around the block. I also took some ride hieght measurements and tire size so you guys get an idea of what i started with and what the end results will be. We will be installing some tubular upper and lower control arms, 2 inch drop spindles, 2 inch drop coils, new shocks, disc brakes, sway bars front and back, disc brakes out back, updated booster and master cylinder. To top it all off we will also be installing a power gearbox with new inner and outer tie rods, new center link, power steering hoses, new u-joints and a retro fit Ididit steering column. This should bring the trucks handling and braking up to par. So heres a few pics of the stripping of the front suspension. youll see the coils have been heated so much that they almost fell out when the vehicle was put on the lift. If anyone has any questions i will be happy to answer them around lunch when i have the front suspension back on. I will aslo post more pics throughout the day. michael

[michaelnolimit]

Couldn't fit all the pictures - here are a few more

[67cheby]

cool, looking forward to seeing your products

[Alvin]

Subscribed!

Interested to see what you turn it into.

[RocketKing]

I'm in... looking forward to your build!

[72BlckButy]

Welcome to the board Michael!

Great looking build thread, can't wait to see it come together.

[michaelnolimit]

alright have some more pics for you guys to look at. im hoping to get the arms on by the end of the day.

[DZL1]

Keep em coming! And welcome. Looking forward to finished product!

DZL1.

[tantrumpipeline]

cool truck, looking forward to the progress, had to bring out the torch to seperate the lowers, broke a couple forks

[big_al_71]

Welcome Michael and we all like great products and lots of picts!!

[michaelnolimit]

time is money so i didnt take everything apart.

[gcburdic]

Go Michael Go!!!

[VA72C10]

Subscribed...nice progress so far!

[too much stuff]

Nice step by step you have going with pics. Keep em coming and welcome. Eric

[lolife99]

Welcome!
Nice to have another member from No Limit Engineering.
Subscribing to this one also.

[michaelnolimit]

more teardown pics

[Deaol]

Very nice, love the play by play pictures, good work

[michaelnolimit]

more scrap metal

[michaelnolimit]

now the fun begins

[michaelnolimit]

so far so good no troubles with any of the components were using and im pretty satisfied with the quality of the components.

[northern 85]

Nice!!

[STOCKISH]

Sweet!

[gcburdic]

So Michael...does this 67 frame have the indention for the PS box, or are your going to use spacers or a BFH to make it fit

[michaelnolimit]

Yes there is a slight dimple in the frame for the gearbox but it is not deep enough for the new power box. My box came with the spacers required to bolt on without hitting the frame. there about a 1/4 inch thick. Brake rotors and calipers are mounted. New inner and outer tie rods, new idler arm, new pitman arm, factory center link from a 73-87 chevy pickup. The castle nut for new inner tie rods when bolted to the center link did not line up the the cotter pin hole. simple solution stack two to three 1/2 washers under castle nut to get cotter pin hole to line up. After gear box is centered and wheels are pointed straight forward make proper adjustments to inner and outer tie rods so they drop into the spindle without turning the wheels. This will get you close enough to do a tape measure alignment later on when its on the ground. After completed well take it to an alignment shop to get a proper alignment, but atleast it will be close enough to drive there. Now for the sway bar. The brackets were a little to long to keep the bar parellel with the chassis at ride height so i trimmed them slightly and opted to weld them on rather than drill holes. Much faster. Another small problem I have come across is the sway bar when bolted to the arm with the supplied end link contacts the outer tie rod. simple solution was to cut the spacer that goes between the rubber biscuits in half and reinstall. No more contact with tie rods. So far all of the products supplied form Performance Online along with the Mc Gaughys drop spindle disc brake kit have worked excellent. A couple of small problems but nothing you guys at home cant handle.

[michaelnolimit]

taking the old booster off is easy. The new booster uses the four factory studs on the firewall. bolts right on. The input shaft was a little to long for my truck so i crawled under the dash and took a measurement and trimmed booster shaft. bolted everything back together and installed factory shouldered bolt nut and cotter pin into the new eylet on booster. Now you will want to check the free play between the master and booster. when you press on the brake pedal you shoul be able to push about an 1/8 to 1/4 inch before you feel the master cylinder engage. If there is no free play there will be constant pressure being applied to the master and therefore constant pressure on your brake calipers. When you drive it will feel like the brakes are always on. Take a couple of minutes to pay attention to this small detail. Next start to plumb new lines to the front and rear brakes. I plumbed new lines in the stock fashion using all the factory clips on the chassis.