Eastwoods Rust Converter/Encapsulter???

[bkquill]

Well, I have quickly discovered what a wealth of knowledge this place is! The next step is to finish the frame, I have just "soaked" it and powerwashed the frame and have remove the complete rear end off of the frame. My goal is not to have a "street rod" perfect truck, but a real drivable hot rod, so I'm not going to blast the frame or powdercoated it. I just want a nice looking finished frame. My question is this, has anyone used Eastwood's Rust Converter and Rust Encapsulater? So if anyone has any experience with the kit, I would appreciate any tips or advise.

[70 shorty]

I used the Rust Encapsulator on a rear end for my old Z28. I don't think they had the rust converter available then, this was more than 5 years ago. I was very happy with the results. I just brushed it on over surface rust after cleaning all the caked on grime with oven cleaner and a wire brush. No brush lines were visible, but just remember to use a throw away brush and wear at a bare minimum some gloves. That stuff does not come off your skin! I used it based on recommendations on NastyZ28.com, where some years ago someone asked for opinions on Eastwood Rust Encapsulator vs POR-15.

[dfwright]

I haven't used the rust converter, but I have used both Rust Encapsulator and Por-15. I personally think each has its place.

The rust encapsulator provides a thicker, softer coating than the por-15, which is thinner, and rock-hard. I use the Por-15 on areas that I feel will take more abuse, like the frame, axles, control arms, etc.

I've used the rust encapsulator on areas like inside support pillars, inner cowl, inside the doors, etc.

The rust encapsulator has one major advantage on por-15 in that you can store it after opening. You can buy a quart of encapsulator and use a bit here, and bit there. Por-15 is pretty much all-at-once. storage options after the can is open are minimal and limited.

I like them both.

[bkquill]

Didn't think about using oven cleaner for the caked-up gunk and grime. So I should use por-15 on the chassis? So I can admit that I'm totally new at this, I'm totally confident in my abilities, but I'm trying to get educated with the proper order of how to do certain things.

So, first I need to remove all the gunk. Use oven cleaner and steel brushes. Check.
Second, use por-15 on the chassis (the frame, axles, control arms, etc.). Check.
Spray on primer?
Spray on paint?
Replace all bushings with poly ones?
Put back together?

Next on the bucket list
Replace 6-lug with 5-lug axles
Replace drums with discs (is it worth the extra to go with disc's all around?) Is there a common mod with using late model brakes? Or, do I just suck it up and buy the kit from somewhere (Ecklers or LMC?)?

More questions to follow!

Is there anybody out there that would like to be a mentor (even though I am 42 lol)? Someone whom I can bug directly with questions? Anybody near Greenville, SC that wants to lend a hand and have a beer or two is more then welcome.

Thanks and cheers,
Brian

[gcburdic]

Hello Brian from the north.... to the boards....wish I was closer...always love to help out when I can!!!...check out the regional boards too...there are several guys near G-Vegas that could probably help ya out....

I think you are on the right track....take a look through the projects/ builds threads on how others have done their's....especially since you are gonna keep it a drivable ride...although...the "might-as-wells" will get the best of you...kinda like...I might as well blast the frame now that I got all the stuff off of it....etc

I did front discs and rebuilt my rear drums and lowered my truck using Classic Performance Products (CPP)...just didn't have the knowledge or the money to do rear discs....I would suggest taking a look at our board vendors too...they offer a lot of products and have excellent customer service....LMC and others are not in the customer service business...heck most of their order takers don't have a clue about what part goes where

Hope this helps ya out some....let me know if you have any questions!

[geoff.clark]

Brian - not sure if I would be a great mentor as I new to this as well. But I am in the process of grinding, sanding and welding at the moment. I am also pretty close to you.

I would be happy to lend you a hand any time you need. Let me know if I can help - always willing to drink a beer or more.

[dfwright]

Originally Posted by bkquill

So, first I need to remove all the gunk. Use oven cleaner and steel brushes. Check.
Second, use por-15 on the chassis (the frame, axles, control arms, etc.). Check.
Spray on primer?
Spray on paint?
Replace all bushings with poly ones?
Put back together?

Brian,

Either Rust Encapsulator or Por-15 will do a good job for you. I would suggest searching the site for Por-15 or Rust encapsulator. You'll find some great posts on both products for and against (It's almost a religious thing sometimes ) along with lots of advise on using them.

Whatever product you use, you definitely want all the grease and grime gone, or the paint won't stick. With POR or Encapsulator, you won't need primer or paint over them unless you just want that. My chassis components are just plain black with several coats of POR-15.

Note that POR-15 will fade in ultraviolet light from the sun, but under the truck, the chassis should be OK.

The general consensus I have seen is Poly bushings for the chassis, rubber for the engine / body (engine mounts, trans mounts, Cab and radiator support mounts rubber) -- I've done all my chassis bushings in poly, haven't done the body/engine yet, so I am just telling you what I've read here.