what else should i buy prior to attempting to lower my truck?

[lilpoindexter]

The fastest method i found for getting out rivets was using a cutting wheel to cut a " + " in the top of the rivet, then I chiseled the head off with a chisel, and just pushed the old rivet out

[jasonroman]

thought i already mentioned the truck was an 85 gmc sierra classic. longbed.
guess while i wait on parts, i may take wheels off and set to spraying some pb blaster on parts to get them soaking early.
might order these parts from rock auto in weeks to come.

1985 GMC C1500 PICKUP 5.7L 350cid V8 4BBL (L) OHV
Steering : Tie Rod End
MOOG Part # ES409RT
Frt Strg; Outer; Problem Solver
$18.36 $0.00 $36.72
MOOG Part # ES409LT
Frt Strg; Inner; Problem Solver
$18.40 $0.00 $36.80
No Vehicle Specified
Steering : Idler Arm
MOOG Part # K6096T
$34.89 $0.00 $34.89
Suspension : Ball Joint
MOOG Part # K6117T
$26.79 $0.00 $53.58
MOOG Part # K6136
$33.89 $0.00 $67.78
Suspension : Control Arm Bushing
MOOG Part # K6138 Package Quantity As Shown In Image Control Arm Bushing Kit
$16.81 $0.00 $33.62
MOOG Part # K6422 Package Quantity As Shown In Image Control Arm Bushing Kit
$53.79 $0.00 $53.79
Steering : Pitman Arm
MOOG Part # K6143
$45.79 $0.00 $45.79
Subtotal $362.97

Total $379.68

so, truck will not be getting low for a little bit, due to the need for the extra 400 in parts for front end. id like to just slam it and go, but dont think it makes sense to do it twice. so, guess my truck and i will continue as, waitn for parts and more working outside in the cold jersey winter climates....
did my body work, and paint in 20-30 degree temps....pretty dumb uh.
picked the absolute worste time of the year to get into truck

Originally Posted by SCOTI

For that kit (sounds like a 73-87), you'll be grinding the rivets off for the upper BJ's in front & the bump-stop brackets in the rear. Depending on the year of the truck & the exact leaf springs, you may/may-not need to cut 'reliefs' in the bed floor support on each side because of the shackles.

You might also need to trim the lip back a little on the lower a-arms depending on your wheel choice & back-spacing.

Your kit should come w/decent instructions but it's pretty straight forward. Just use a Haynes/Chiltons service manual for reassembly. When you remove/replace the BJ's, the spindle is disconnected so it's just swapping stuff over to the new spindles (paint the spindles before installing them).

The flip kit isn't much worse. Slightly raise the rear housing w/your floor jack. Put jackstands under the frame rails. Remove the wheels. Disconnect the drive shaft. Remove the lower shock bolts & swing the shocks out of the way (or remove them). Loosen the u-bolts securing the rear end. Remove the shackles. Remove the u-bolts & lower the rear housing. You can either disconnect the rubber flex line for the rear brakes or manuver the housing w/it intact. Re-position the housing so you can move the leaf spring packs from above the housing to below (make sure the flip-kit relocation brackets are facing the right direction per the directions). Raise the housing back up. Re-install your dropped shackles (do not tighten them 100% yet; just snug the hardware). Re-tighten the u-bolts (make sure you can get the lower shock hardware on). Re-install/connect the shocks.

Raise the housing again until the truck slightly comes off the jackstands & then tighten up the rear shackles (you want full weight of the truck on the springs/shackles). Look closely @ the leafs where it goes into the shackle & see if it's rubbing against the bed floor support directly adjacent. If it's making contact, trim out the area that touches. If there's no interference, nothing needs to be done.

Before disassembling anything unfamiliar, take pictures & print them out on the computer so you can see how things were positioned prior to taking them apart. This is especially helpful when the project takes longer than anticipated.

[Madfish]

Jason, to see my truck search "early xmas present finally on" on the search thing at the top. I would put a pic up here but my computer is screwed. No pics of it on my wifes computer. Or someone could put a link up for it cause i dont know how.

[Madfish]

Here it is jason. 6/8

[502ss]

Not sure if you plan to remove the bed but take the extra time and do so. Things are so much easier to work on from the top side vs. on a creeper on your back!
Posted via Mobile Device

[jasonroman]

well, as far as the bed goes, i think i might have to work on my knees and back. i had taken the bed off a couple weeks back to do the dody work.
thought about buying a beater, that way i didnt have to rush bodywork and planned to order kit. figured id be easier with bed off to do the job.
but now, had to have bed bolts tacked to bed from top. and beds back on.
me and a friend lifted while my wife drove away the first time.../
now i dont think we will be able to lift high enuff.... created my own problem....
but hopefully i can get it done with bed on..

[BIGBLU 72]

im in the middle of a drop too. I figured out a great way to remove the upper ball joint. on the bottom side of the Aarm drill a hole into the rivet heads (all the way thru to the rivet body), take a chisel and knock these heads off, wedge the chisel under the ball joint play, then pop its off! it seriously took me 15 min per side

[jasonroman]

thanks for info. ill be going back and forth, when im ready to take it apart to see these tips that will help me along the way...
what would be great is a write up, step by step, with pics. but i do appreciate everything so far.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

thanks for info. ill be going back and forth, when im ready to take it apart to see these tips that will help me along the way...
what would be great is a write up, step by step, with pics. but i do appreciate everything so far.

The problem w/that request is it's an extremely time consuming task when doing the work. Taking pics as you go that help explain what you're doing, uploading & coordinating the pics, then writing the info in a format that is easily read is @ least twice the work vs. just getting it done.

What's unknown to some is basic/redundant to others so where do you stop? How detailed does one get when doing a 'how-to'?

It's best to keep doing what you're doing: research. Find internet info on rebuilding the suspension as that gives you the basics. Every lowering job can be different & there's more than one right way to lower a truck. Start doing the work & ask questions as you go.

Oh yeah, don't forget to document everything so you can 'pay it forward' & provide assistance to the next guy needing the exact same info you're seeking.

[jasonroman]

I understand what your saying man.
been looking and havent found much. but i guess at the end of the day its gotta get done. pics or no pics right.
i have a little time....parts need to arrive and i need to get money together to order the front end parts...
in the mean time ill keep eye out for info. and re read what you folks gave me to build off of.
i figure, ill get ride to work, that way i can keep truck in the air, and not feel the need to rush. not that rushing will help me.
time frame....not sure if i wanna put one on this job as suggested earlier.
uh, maybe 2mths.....
probly gonna take me that long to find the bolts that i drop during the take apart process....

[No3Fan4Ever]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

thought i already mentioned the truck was an 85 gmc sierra classic. longbed.
guess while i wait on parts, i may take wheels off and set to spraying some pb blaster on parts to get them soaking early.
might order these parts from rock auto in weeks to come.

1985 GMC C1500 PICKUP 5.7L 350cid V8 4BBL (L) OHV
Steering : Tie Rod End
MOOG Part # ES409RT
Frt Strg; Outer; Problem Solver
$18.36 $0.00 $36.72
MOOG Part # ES409LT
Frt Strg; Inner; Problem Solver
$18.40 $0.00 $36.80
No Vehicle Specified
Steering : Idler Arm
MOOG Part # K6096T
$34.89 $0.00 $34.89
Suspension : Ball Joint
MOOG Part # K6117T
$26.79 $0.00 $53.58
MOOG Part # K6136
$33.89 $0.00 $67.78
Suspension : Control Arm Bushing
MOOG Part # K6138 Package Quantity As Shown In Image Control Arm Bushing Kit
$16.81 $0.00 $33.62
MOOG Part # K6422 Package Quantity As Shown In Image Control Arm Bushing Kit
$53.79 $0.00 $53.79
Steering : Pitman Arm
MOOG Part # K6143
$45.79 $0.00 $45.79
Subtotal $362.97

Total $379.68

so, truck will not be getting low for a little bit, due to the need for the extra 400 in parts for front end. id like to just slam it and go, but dont think it makes sense to do it twice. so, guess my truck and i will continue as, waitn for parts and more working outside in the cold jersey winter climates....
did my body work, and paint in 20-30 degree temps....pretty dumb uh.
picked the absolute worste time of the year to get into truck

Rock Auto Parts is a great place to buy stuff. But just for sniffs and giggles do a search at amazon.com using those moog part numbers.... you may be surprised how much you can save......may take a little longer to get them though

[jasonroman]

update!!!!!





dropped my son off at school this morning...
then thought about going and buying some tools that ill be needing for the job.
then i decided rather then buy tools now, id go home and order parts for front end....well some of the parts.... not sure if i need all the things i listed earlier.
anyhow, i am pulling into my driveway and i notice my xmas tree in the window.
then look and notice a jeep parked on my lawn attached to my truck.
keep in mind, i just did my first body work and paint work to the truck a couple weeks ago.
was gonna leave it off teh road and take my time doing the job, but since i ddint have another car to use, rather then buying a junker, wife thought it best to get truck back on the road....
so i finished body work and paint....
and now this is where i stand.
great start to new year uh folks.

[jasonroman]

new to me...1985 gmc sierra classic





little attempt at bodywork




result of rookie bodywork






damage



cause of damage...this morning pulling into my driveway!!!@

[SCOTI]

You ran into your own truck?

[jasonroman]

what made you think that?
i was coming home from dropping my son at school.
and when i was pulling into my driveway, i realized the chick in the jeep felt like smashing into my truck instead of slowing down the jeep..

[502ss]

Talk about $hit luck, that sucks man!

Where does does this now put you lowering project?
Posted via Mobile Device

[jasonroman]

well right now. im not sure..
i knwo that i will stay driving a square, be it the one i did my first body work and paint on, or another.
insurance guy just called an said they have to see it to check damage, but due to age, they may total truck.....
not sure what that means for me??
i cant seem to find a book value on truck.
but im sure it aint much.
truck needs a new bed.....or lots of welding and taking that side of another bed<<<< i think. cant see bondo fixing this.
i checked clist and only found 1 and dude wants 1000.
if they total it, what happends? i loose my truck and get a check for 1200 bucks if they say its worth 1200???

[502ss]

Lot of times you have the option to buy the vehicle from the insurance company after they total it for a significant discount. It will have a salvage title and I am not sure how that effects your ability to get new insurance. These are things you need to cover with your insurance agent. In regards to the damage, a skilled repair shop can fix easily!
Posted via Mobile Device

[jasonroman]

well i guess, once again, ill get the dirty end of the stick...
if they total. and i have to buy back, they aint giving me much for truck probly and then i wont have enuff to pay a shop to do the work....
never ends....

[jimmydean]

The rule of thumb from my experience is if the repair of the damage is more than 70% of the value, then they will usually total it. But if the damage is minimal, you should be able to get it fixed without totaling it out.

A branded title might be an issue for insurance, but it will be an issue for sure at resell time if you ever decide to sell it later. I learned that lesson the hard way.

[jasonroman]

well im hoping that they dont opt to total it. would be nice to keep working on the truck. got a bunch of money into different parts of truck since purchase. dont need the headache of total, and title.
ill keep you guys posted on what happens.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

well im hoping that they dont opt to total it. would be nice to keep working on the truck. got a bunch of money into different parts of truck since purchase. dont need the headache of total, and title.
ill keep you guys posted on what happens.

Start sorting & chronologically organizing all of your receipts for the truck including/starting w/the purchase receipt/BOS. Get a running total of your investment so far so you know where you stand w/any offers of compensation. Start documenting other similar trucks w/similar milage & condition being sold in your area (within x amount of miles; doesn't have to be your zip code). One unfortunate issue is they won't reimburse for standard mechanical items deemed 'regular maintenance'. BJ's, tie-rods, & brake stuff won't get you anything extra..... a lowering kit (spindles, flip kit, etc...) might. Pics of the body/paint work previously performed on the truck w/receipts for the materials should help as you were 'restoring' the truck to a better condition.

Let the ins adjuster get you an estimate & see if any local places give a similar number. You might have to go back & forth before finalizing anything. In my opinion, I would get another bedside & swap it out but it's hard to tell what else was damaged.

State Farm has 'totaled' 2 of my vehicles. I bought both back each time for ~$500 w/a clear title & because of my documentation, I received a fair amount of compensation.

[legendary]

That year bed usually goes for $500-$600 here in GA....I know because when I was looking for one, there was one on Craigslist for $500 and it was in mint condition...primer gray

[jasonroman]

Cheapest I saw for the year bed I need is 1000 in pa.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jasonroman]

looks like they will be fixing the truck....
apparentley the boss at my wifes shop told the guy he can repair it.
was told they will hit the panel from the inside and weld a square patch in...
then paint....guess i see how this ends up.
im pretty sure im going to get back a bondo filled, non straight bed back.

Line Entry Labor Line Item Part Type/ Dollar Labor
Item Number Type Operation Description Part Number Amount Units
Pickup Bed
1 241180 BDY REPAIR R Pickup Bed Side Panel Existing 12.0* #
2 REF REFINISH R Bed Outer Side Panel C 3.7
ADDITIONAL OPERATIONS
3 REF ADD'L OPR Clear Coat 1.5
Additional Costs & Materials
4 ADD'L COST Paint/Materials 142.50 *
5 ADD'L COST Hazardous Waste Disposal 3.00 *
MANUAL ENTRIES
6 900500 REF * REFINISH/REPAIR COLOR TINT/SPRAY OUT CARDS Existing 0.5*
7 EXPLANATION REQUEST
8 900500 BDY * REPAIR RUSTPROOFING/ANTI-CORROSION COMPOUND - 1 Sublet 9.95 * 0.1*
* - Judgment Item
# - Labor Note Applies
C - Included in Clear Coat Calc
ESTIMATE RECALL NUMBER: 01/05/2011 12:49:04 11-4600162-02
Mitchell Data Version: OEM: NOV_10_V UltraMate is a Trademark of Mitchell International
MAPP:NOV_10_V0102 Copyright (C) 1994 - 2010 Mitchell International Page 1 of 4
UltraMate Version: 7.0.224 All Rights Reserved
Date: 01/05/2011 12:56 PM
Estimate ID: 11-4600162-02
Estimate Version: 0
Committed
Profile ID: NNJ: All Part Types
All manufacturers requirements regarding seat belt and supplemental
restraint system replacement must be adhered to. If additional parts
or operations are necessary to properly accomplish this, please
contact the estimating claims rep.
** NO SUPPLEMENTS WITHOUT PRIOR PROGRESSIVE AUTHORIZATION OR
REINSPECTION **
Estimate Totals
____________________________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________
Add'l
Labor Sublet
I. Labor Subtotals Units Rate Amount Amount Totals
Body 12.1 44.00 0.00 9.95 542.35 T
Refinish 5.7 44.00 0.00 0.00 250.80 T
Taxable Labor 793.15
Labor Tax @ 7.000 % 55.52
Labor Summary 17.8 848.67
II. Part Replacement Summary Amount
Total Replacement Parts Amount 0.00
III. Additional Costs Amount
Taxable Costs 145.50
Sales Tax @ 7.000% 10.19
Total Additional Costs 155.69
Paint Material Method: Rates
Init Rate = 25.00
IV. Adjustments Amount
Insurance Deductible 0.00
Customer Responsibility 0.00
I. Total Labor: 848.67
II. Total Replacement Parts: 0.00
III. Total Additional Costs: 155.69
Gross Total: 1,004.36
IV. Total Adjustments: 0.00
Net Total: 1,004.36