The 67-72 One Ton Brake Booster Swap Guide ***PICS***

[swyfor5]

Here's some pics!

[tawd77]

Originally Posted by swyfor5

Here's some pics!

That a good looking unit! But all I was trying to say is, If your booster goes bad, and there is nothing wrong with your master cylinder, its possible to just swap in a 1 ton booster, and it will work properly, and greatly improve your braking.

I had no reason to replace the brackets, master cylinder, proportioning valve, etc... That would have been a huge waste of money.. $90, and my brakes work better than new!

[BLUE THUNDER]

So, I can use my existing master cylinder and just swap out the booster. Sweet. I need to do this. I've noticed that sometimes I don't have enough braking power even with 33's I'm anxious to try this swap.

[tawd77]

Originally Posted by BLUE THUNDER

So, I can use my existing master cylinder and just swap out the booster. Sweet. I need to do this. I've noticed that sometimes I don't have enough braking power even with 33's I'm anxious to try this swap.

Yep, the little rod between your booster and master cylinder will have to be reused with the 1 ton booster. The 1 ton booster comes with a rod that is much shorter.

[AJs72K5]

Keeping the thread clean since it's supposed to be a guide...

There is absolutely nothing wrong with just upgrading the booster. A number of guys have done just that. I started this thread to answer some of the common questions that a number have come across when doing the swap. As mentioned in the first post, out of shear convenience I elected to get the master too.
Posted via Mobile Device

[BLUE THUNDER]

@ AJ. You almost ready dude?

[jimmypop]

Just what I needed!!!

[SeventyOne]

SWYfor5 - did you buy that all as a kit? New parts? Needing to replace all my braking components when I get to that part of my resto and that seems like an easy way to go...

[swyfor5]

SeventyOne, yes, I bought it complete as you see in the pic's. All new parts. It is a sweet setup, cost just over $300.00, but well worth it to me as in not having to search around and find all the right parts. Bought it from boardmember Frank/aka/Pickmup. Great guy to deal with, and man this is a nice setup, can't wait to get it installed! When I first started researching this swap, he didn't sell this combo, but he designed this setup with the prop valve for 4 wheel disc's and should work great! Check him out! He is in Olympia, Wa.

[334scotia]

The pic beneath is exact master cylinder and booster as the one on my K5. Where did you go for brake lines... I m having trouble finding the correct sizes to fit front and rear after my conversion to 3/4 ton?

[Dads72Blazer]

Awesome!Thanks for the info!

Jason

[2many]

Great post - just what I was looking for with good info. Wondering if anyone has some follow up as to how this setup really works? I plan on combining the 50-1007 with the Wilwood 260-11179 proportioning valve on a '72 Jimmy, 14FF and 60 both with discs. Thanks for the info!

[montsb]

Hey all. In checking out this great thread, I thought that the booster and master cylinder looked very different in my Blazer, and it is lol. I was looking at the part number to see what it might be. It has a penstar logo, it is Bendix 18268 with pat #3110031 "and others". So I cross referenced these numbers and according to what I found, the booster and master cylinder that was replaced ( by who?) is what they used in a '70 AAR Cuda and 69/70 Charger R/T

Anyone know why they would have done this? These days, a refurbished one of these boosters is big $$$. And then the original appearing master cylinder as well.

Just something crazy I realized and was hoping to get some thoughts.

[scf100]

If it's an original booster master from that Cuda or Charger yes your talking good money.....sell,them and get a free upgrade!

Originally Posted by montsb

Hey all. In checking out this great thread, I thought that the booster and master cylinder looked very different in my Blazer, and it is lol. I was looking at the part number to see what it might be. It has a penstar logo, it is Bendix 18268 with pat #3110031 "and others". So I cross referenced these numbers and according to what I found, the booster and master cylinder that was replaced ( by who?) is what they used in a '70 AAR Cuda and 69/70 Charger R/T

Anyone know why they would have done this? These days, a refurbished one of these boosters is big $$$. And then the original appearing master cylinder as well.

Just something crazy I realized and was hoping to get some thoughts.

[montsb]

Originally Posted by scf100

If it's an original booster master from that Cuda or Charger yes your talking good money.....sell,them and get a free upgrade!

That is exactly what I am thinking . The one ton setup is what I want. And I love the newer style proportion ing valve. Very slick. On your new ones. Did you guys shoot them with clear? Or just install it the way it came? I just don't want it colored "rusty" lol.

[chewysask]

Does anyone have the proportioning valve and brake line product numbers for inlinetube.com?

Thanks Carey

[JHTreyIII]

I know this is a little old but I had the same question. I just ordered part No. CTB71MC44 from Inline Tube. When it arrives in about a week I'll report back and confirm the part number.

[trukman1]

Originally Posted by tawd77

So, your telling me I should replace my brake master cylinder, that was replaced less than a year a go, and works perfectly, because I put a new booster on? That makes no sense. If its isnt broke, Im not going to fix it. If the master cylinder does go out, I will be replacing it with a 1/2 ton master cylinder. The brakes work twice as good as they did before, so there is no need for the 1 ton master cylinder. It just makes it a pain, to have to switch brake lines around....

If you have a M/C that works great then, well, great. I would like to caution members about buying the rebuilt units. I bought a rebuilt unit and was driving down the road with working brakes most of the time but sometimes I'd go to stop and no brakes! I replaced that M/C two more times, (warrantied for life deal) same thing. At this point I'm thinking it has to be something else. Local mechanic asked if I was buying rebuilt units...yup! He said to buy a new unit and, walla, brakes worked fine. He said as the units get old the bore wears. When the units are rebuilt they are not re-bored and fitted with a larger piston, just the O-rings and seals are replaced. He said that it can cause the piston to hang-up in the bore and the fluid to pass around it giving you...no braking power. Bought a new unit for only $10 more than the rebuilt and no more problems. Just thought I'd let people know so they can avoid the problem I had. YMMV.

[JHTreyIII]

Originally Posted by JHTreyIII

I know this is a little old but I had the same question. I just ordered part No. CTB71MC44 from Inline Tube. When it arrives in about a week I'll report back and confirm the part number.

I just wanted to report back on this. The part number I listed above is correct for the crossover.