starter question? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

chevyforever · 07-06-2003, 07:20 PM

i was looking at my starter today on my 71, and noticed that besides the one main battery feed wire, that there are also two smaller gauge wires that go to the selenoid also. isnt there only supposed to be one smaller wire to the selenoid? all of the wiring diagrams that i have found show the two wires like what i have, one is from the same circiut as the coil wire, and the other is directly from the fuse block. thanks in advance for help!

chevyforever

Class of 69 · 07-06-2003, 07:26 PM

Mine has two...purple is the circuit that makes the starter operate, and yellow provides power to the coil while cranking.

Blue_71 · 07-06-2003, 08:48 PM

the yellow is the coil power for points ignition, it doesnt hurt anything to hook it up to a HEI coil (BAT terminal) as long as you run a 10 gauge wire from the BAT terminal to the IGN UNFUSED also (thats how my truck was when i bought it)

or you can just take out the yellow wire for HEI

Longhorn Man · 07-06-2003, 11:26 PM

The points system as we all know is designed to run off of reduced voltage. GM discovered that if you increase that voltage, the engine will start easier. This was there solution. The R terminal on your starter relays a full 12 volts to the coil when ever your igniton switch is cranked.
If you have done away with the old points, and have an HEI distibutor in its place, the yellow wire can be deleted all together. There is no reason to keep it, and I can't see it being OK the way blue71 says his was done up.
The way blue's is wired, you'd be constantly putting 12 volts to a terminal that is not supposed t be getting it. Even though it isn't doing anything, I can't see it being good for the relay. It might be back feeding it a little....I don't know.
Josh...snip that wire.

chevyforever · 07-06-2003, 11:45 PM

at the moment, i have an HEI ignition with the yellow wire plugged into the BAT terminal, and also on one side of the starter, and also for some reason, the previous owner tapped into that same wire for the electric fuel pump! crazy if u ask me. so now heres what i'm gathering from the replys,,, remove yellow wire from starter and HEI coil, and run a bigger gauge wire from an ignition hot unfused from the fuseblock. and also run the wire for the fuel pump to an ignition hot unfused in the fuseblock. please correct me if i am wrong. and thanks for the replys!

chevyforever

Blue_71 · 07-06-2003, 11:54 PM

i never said it was GOOD i said it WORKED

(btw-- it was long ago sniped when i put in the 350)

Blue_71 · 07-06-2003, 11:57 PM

come to think of it though, when i took that starter to the shop they said the insides was so fried it couldnt be rebuilt..........

Longhorn Man · 07-07-2003, 12:02 AM

chevyforever, your on the right track.
Blue...good deal. i figured you already took care of it.
Did they say what was wrong with it?

chevyforever · 07-07-2003, 12:06 AM

good deal! thanks for all the advice. now when the Painless gets here, i can put it all to work.

chevyforever

Blue_71 · 07-07-2003, 12:23 AM

yeah they did but i cant remember, i just remember something about the bendix being big time messed up and the solinoid havign everythign inside fried/melted

07-06-2003, 07:20 PM	#1
chevyforever Some like em' long! Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Grace, Idaho Posts: 69	starter question? i was looking at my starter today on my 71, and noticed that besides the one main battery feed wire, that there are also two smaller gauge wires that go to the selenoid also. isnt there only supposed to be one smaller wire to the selenoid? all of the wiring diagrams that i have found show the two wires like what i have, one is from the same circiut as the coil wire, and the other is directly from the fuse block. thanks in advance for help! chevyforever __________________ 1971 chevy c10 lwb- 300 hp 350 crate motor, soon to be more with ported and polished 62cc chamber 461 double humps, TH400, 3.73 posi, used to be my uncle's truck 1972 chevy k10 lwb- 350,4 spd, old and tired, dad bought brand new and is now mine 1968 chevy c20 lwb- 327, 4 spd, was originally a 50th anniversary truck 1990 GMC K1500-just my runaround truck 1982 Chevy K10 shortbed, new motor and new paint, another project in the mix of the others. IMPORTS SUCK!

07-06-2003, 07:26 PM	#2
Class of 69 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Stillwater MN Posts: 1,166	Mine has two...purple is the circuit that makes the starter operate, and yellow provides power to the coil while cranking. __________________ 69 GMC K10 ..some restoration required....still..

07-06-2003, 11:45 PM	#5
chevyforever Some like em' long! Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Grace, Idaho Posts: 69	at the moment, i have an HEI ignition with the yellow wire plugged into the BAT terminal, and also on one side of the starter, and also for some reason, the previous owner tapped into that same wire for the electric fuel pump! crazy if u ask me. so now heres what i'm gathering from the replys,,, remove yellow wire from starter and HEI coil, and run a bigger gauge wire from an ignition hot unfused from the fuseblock. and also run the wire for the fuel pump to an ignition hot unfused in the fuseblock. please correct me if i am wrong. and thanks for the replys! chevyforever __________________ 1971 chevy c10 lwb- 300 hp 350 crate motor, soon to be more with ported and polished 62cc chamber 461 double humps, TH400, 3.73 posi, used to be my uncle's truck 1972 chevy k10 lwb- 350,4 spd, old and tired, dad bought brand new and is now mine 1968 chevy c20 lwb- 327, 4 spd, was originally a 50th anniversary truck 1990 GMC K1500-just my runaround truck 1982 Chevy K10 shortbed, new motor and new paint, another project in the mix of the others. IMPORTS SUCK!

07-07-2003, 12:06 AM	#9
chevyforever Some like em' long! Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Grace, Idaho Posts: 69	good deal! thanks for all the advice. now when the Painless gets here, i can put it all to work. chevyforever __________________ 1971 chevy c10 lwb- 300 hp 350 crate motor, soon to be more with ported and polished 62cc chamber 461 double humps, TH400, 3.73 posi, used to be my uncle's truck 1972 chevy k10 lwb- 350,4 spd, old and tired, dad bought brand new and is now mine 1968 chevy c20 lwb- 327, 4 spd, was originally a 50th anniversary truck 1990 GMC K1500-just my runaround truck 1982 Chevy K10 shortbed, new motor and new paint, another project in the mix of the others. IMPORTS SUCK!

07-06-2003, 11:26 PM	#4
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	The points system as we all know is designed to run off of reduced voltage. GM discovered that if you increase that voltage, the engine will start easier. This was there solution. The R terminal on your starter relays a full 12 volts to the coil when ever your igniton switch is cranked. If you have done away with the old points, and have an HEI distibutor in its place, the yellow wire can be deleted all together. There is no reason to keep it, and I can't see it being OK the way blue71 says his was done up. The way blue's is wired, you'd be constantly putting 12 volts to a terminal that is not supposed t be getting it. Even though it isn't doing anything, I can't see it being good for the relay. It might be back feeding it a little....I don't know. Josh...snip that wire.

07-06-2003, 11:57 PM	#7
Blue_71 Bloo Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Barren County Kentucky Posts: 6,285	come to think of it though, when i took that starter to the shop they said the insides was so fried it couldnt be rebuilt..........

07-07-2003, 12:02 AM	#8
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	chevyforever, your on the right track. Blue...good deal. i figured you already took care of it. Did they say what was wrong with it?



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