Project Budget Build

[blazerboy_4life]

Ok so Ive been busy for a few days but I GOT THE NEW ENGINE IN!! : It sounds awesome! So far it feels like it could burn rubber all day... If it would stay running. Im having a fuel problem. The truck will sit and idle all day but if you drive it , doesnt matter if its 25mph or pedal to the floor, after about half mile it dies. I think its a bad fuel pump but Im not sure. When its running you can see through the clear fuel filter that it isnt getting a lot of fuel. Either that or its using more fuel than the pump can keep up with. Im gonna try my old fuel pump and see how it goes from there. Until then heres a pic of my shiny new toy!

[slick copper]

Awesome! I had kinda the same problem with mine, on my 70 i got a bad pump, then on my 67 the fuel screen on the tank pickup was so deteriorated that it was crumbling and getting sucked up the fuel lines and clogging the pump and filters!

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by slick copper

Awesome! I had kinda the same problem with mine, on my 70 i got a bad pump, then on my 67 the fuel screen on the tank pickup was so deteriorated that it was crumbling and getting sucked up the fuel lines and clogging the pump and filters!

Looks good!

good places to check. Also older rubber hoses can be compressing (sucking shut). Have heard of that happening and it's hard to diagnose....

[foosed]

Looks good. Nice to finally have some warm weather around here to get stuff done...

[dmack91]

Originally Posted by blazerboy_4life

Good to see its capable of body work. On the specs it says it will weld up to half inch. I wont really know until It warms up and I can get out and fab up some stuff for fun.

1/2" is more than wishful thinking. I have tried to run a 120 amp110V welder on 1/4" and it wouldn't penetrate much at all. The small units are good for up to about 1/8" from what I have seen. Good for what they are built for, but a 220V is best for 1/4" plus, especially if it is structural in any way.

[blazerboy_4life]

Originally Posted by slick copper

Awesome! I had kinda the same problem with mine, on my 70 i got a bad pump, then on my 67 the fuel screen on the tank pickup was so deteriorated that it was crumbling and getting sucked up the fuel lines and clogging the pump and filters!

First thing im going to check is the fuel pump. Im gonna swap it with the one off the 305 and see if that makes a difference. After that im going to move to the fuel tank. I didnt even think to replace the fuel screen when I put on the high volume fuel pump.

Originally Posted by foosed

Looks good. Nice to finally have some warm weather around here to get stuff done...

Definately!! Next step is to get my header situation sorted out and get the exhaust done them im going to start removing the short fleetside box and swapping in the short step box as well as blasting the frame too. That way I can do all the body work on the fleet box but still enjoy my sweet ride as usual! Weather says its gonna be in the 50's all week and im not going to waste a minute of that nice warm air!

Originally Posted by VA72C10=

Looks good!

good places to check. Also older rubber hoses can be compressing (sucking shut). Have heard of that happening and it's hard to diagnose....

I never even thought of that at all. I guess if ive got a clog in the line the pump may be sucking hard enough to compress the lines and make the problem worse. I did put all new rubber in with this motor though. The old stuff was so rotted out I could pull it apart lightly with my hands. I have no idea how I even drove it as much as i did without an engine fire of some sort!

Originally Posted by dmack91

1/2" is more than wishful thinking. I have tried to run a 120 amp110V welder on 1/4" and it wouldn't penetrate much at all. The small units are good for up to about 1/8" from what I have seen. Good for what they are built for, but a 220V is best for 1/4" plus, especially if it is structural in any way.

I dont think i would even try 1/2" but for body work and things like putting in the supports for a rear mount gas tank I think it will do fine for now. Ive got a buddy whos restoring an old 4x4 Dodge Macho and hes getting ready to pony up and buy a Real welder. For the big stuff, Ill go to him and use his new toy.

[slick copper]

As far as a new fuel screen, good luck. No parts store I went to had one. Finally the boys at O'reilly's went in the back with me and we found one off of a newer model car that with an o ring and a zip tie we made work! Just a little country inginuity.

[blazerboy_4life]

Here she is. I think I sorted out the fuel issue. The hose coming off of the frame attaching to the fuel pump was too long and binding under operating pressure. it was spun a bit and making small kinks that were exaggerated while running. Let me know how it sounds and what you think.

YouTube - 2011 03 17 09 52 46 492

[blazerboy_4life]

I just played the video on the computer... again... and my son whos 20months old now ran around the corner to see what the cool sound was on the screen. As he ran around the corner he had his arm sticking out pointing at the screen saying over and over Cool, Cool Daddy! This is exciting to me cause someday this will be his truck. Its kinda neat to see him so interested in the truck so early.

[blazerboy_4life]

Well I just ordered my 5th set of headers. We'll see if these work this time. Should be here monday.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-69092/



Its been a good week so far. I picked up a set of 6lug rally wheels for $30 on monday. Wednesday I picked up an Access Tonneau cover for $50(awesome condition too!!), Thursday I ordered my new headers, and tomorrow Ill be going to pick my NewToMe windshield (Ill show you pics of my current one later), new back window and a pair of power leather buckets all for a whopping $30! Pics of those tomorrow too. No I didnt forget a zero either... Cant wait to get the headers on and get the side pipes put on so I can drive it regularly and get started on the box and frame work.

Two things:
1) Does anybody know how hard a job it is to switch a steel bed over to a wood bed, and what parts are needed?

2)Are any special tools needed to swap out the windshield and back window?

[RCbowtie69]

looking good,keep up the hard work,motor sound good too & keep on truckin''

[blazerboy_4life]

Thanks man. Its actually moving faster than I thought it was goin to. Picking up the pace too now that the weather is warming up.
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[67chevy1series]

lucky the weather here sucks

[blazerboy_4life]

So here's the buckets I just picked up for basically $10. Anybody know what they are out of? The guy said he paid $250 for them then decided he didn't like them. When I asked him what they came out of he said "I dunno a newer blazer or something" I don't quite recognize them though.
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[slick copper]

Those look like special order to me like outta JC whitney. Or maybe out of a fancy van with those arm rests on 'em. I'm just guessin' though. And for windshield work you'll probably want to get one of those windshield spatula things. I don't think they cost too much, just helps with getting the glass into the rubber seal without scratching the glass or cutting the rubber. I know LMC sells them. Don't hold me to all that though!

[blazerboy_4life]

Good news!! These headers fit with no mods to anything to make them fit! Although they didnt finish drilling the holes for the header bolts and none of the holes aligned with the heads. Outside of that after about 5 hours they went on smooth as butter and the truck sounds sweet now! Ill post pics in the morning when ive got more light.

[67chevy1series]

cool! cant wait for pics!

[blazerboy_4life]

So heres The pics I promised hours ago. These are waaay lower than I wanted but they will get the job done for now. The truck sounds like a beast with these on too!

[blazerboy_4life]

This is how far past the frame they go.

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by blazerboy_4life

Two things:
1) Does anybody know how hard a job it is to switch a steel bed over to a wood bed, and what parts are needed?

Not bad. Remove the floor, change to a header panel for wood floor or modify 3/4" lower (Mark-K sells a piece). Buy the wood cross sills, wood, and strips to hold the wood down and a bunch of bolts

Originally Posted by blazerboy_4life

2)Are any special tools needed to swap out the windshield and back window?

I know you want a precision seal if you can find one. Most old seals are hard so I simply cut them out on the inside to make them easier to remove. Most glass guys I've watched use a suction cup on the inside and have rope inside the seal and pull a section out at a time for the seal to fit over the window lip and lock it in. Much easier with two people...

[blazerboy_4life]

Heres a pic of the Belair i just scored for $340

[slick copper]

Wish I could find deals like that!!

[blazerboy_4life]

Ok so the weathers been crappy lately and I havent made any progress on the truck. I do have a nice set of 20" Boss 304's lined up and I just ordered the 2" Lowering springs for the rear this morning. In a week or so She should have a whole new stance!!

[blazerboy_4life]

So I got my new 2" lowering springs in today from brothers. Something doesnt seem right now me. The 2" drop springs are larger than my, what appear to be, factory springs. If I had to guess It looks like the factory springs were torched and compressed. Any second thoughts on that? I know the new springs will be shorter under the load of the bed more so after they are broken in. My front wheel wells are at 31" and my rear wheel wells are at 33" before changing any springs. Does any body know what the factory ride height should be on a 2wd 70swb?

[slick copper]

Yeah it looks to me as if the PO torched 'em. You'll definately still want to replace them. Torching springs weakens the steel. Not sure what the original ride height is, I'm sure someone'll chime in on that. Hope my two cents helps