1998 Suburban Intake Manifold

[Legolas894]

Not sure if this is the right place for this.

Ran out of fuel last Friday night at the side of the road. Fuelled up and engine started ok. Next morning, engine wouldn't run (it would turn over but not fire). Thought I had crap in the lines from running empty or bad fuel. Changed fuel filter-was plugged a little. No difference-still wouldn't stay running or really start. No "Service Engine Soon" light on either.

Had it towed to my favourite garage. Mechanic checks fuel pressure-right in normal range. He thinks it's not getting spark. Changes distributor cap-All is well. He calls me to tell me that he noticed the coolant was low (I had just added some a few weeks ago). He can see the coolant leaking out the intake manifold but still outside of the engine. He shows me a Jimmy in the garage where he's just changed the manifold. He says it's an $800 job to put a new intake manifold gasket on using a better gasket than the factory had used. He can do it but I can get by a few months as long as the coolant doesn't show up in the oil.

Is this a hard repair for a novice? I've done brakes, alternators, wheel cylinders, bearings etc. Do I need any special tools? I just have impact gun, ratchets, torque wrench, timing light etc.

Thanks!

[scruffre]

I have to do the same on my '99 suburban. I found this which looks helpful. It goes a little further than just the manifold

http://helpwrench.com/forums/showthr...ctions-and-pic

[BigBlocksRule]

It's not that tough of a job. Disconnect wiring and air intake, loosen serp brackets and slide 'em forward on the studs, mark and pull the dizzy, pull intake and go to town. I use a bead of RTV across the front and back, don't go overboard, a bead about the size of a pencil is generally plenty. Make sure you get the FelPro gaskets with rubber inserts, most parts stores are familiar with 'em. Plan on an oil change, I usually wash the lifter valley down with solvent and change oil right after I finish the job.
I wouldn't wait, if a decent amount of coolant gets into the oil it'll take out rod bearings. Seen it many times.

[Legolas894]

Originally Posted by scruffre

I have to do the same on my '99 suburban. I found this which looks helpful. It goes a little further than just the manifold

http://helpwrench.com/forums/showthr...ctions-and-pic

Thanks for this post.

This link looks very detailed and helpful. It does look like a lot of dismantling before you get to the intake. I don't think the poster mentioned how long it took but I think this would be a whole day or weekend for me. Have you got a price for it yet or are you going to do it yourself?

[Legolas894]

Originally Posted by BigBlocksRule

It's not that tough of a job. Disconnect wiring and air intake, loosen serp brackets and slide 'em forward on the studs, mark and pull the dizzy, pull intake and go to town. I use a bead of RTV across the front and back, don't go overboard, a bead about the size of a pencil is generally plenty. Make sure you get the FelPro gaskets with rubber inserts, most parts stores are familiar with 'em. Plan on an oil change, I usually wash the lifter valley down with solvent and change oil right after I finish the job.
I wouldn't wait, if a decent amount of coolant gets into the oil it'll take out rod bearings. Seen it many times.

Thanks
My mechanic says they send the manifold to be machined to ensure a flat surface. Is that needed?

[scruffre]

Originally Posted by Legolas894

Thanks for this post.

This link looks very detailed and helpful. It does look like a lot of dismantling before you get to the intake. I don't think the poster mentioned how long it took but I think this would be a whole day or weekend for me. Have you got a price for it yet or are you going to do it yourself?

I'll be trying it myself (when it gets a little warmer at this end of the lake LOL)
haven't got a price yet, but most places around here are $75 to $100 per hour labour rate

[Legolas894]

Originally Posted by scruffre

I'll be trying it myself (when it gets a little warmer at this end of the lake LOL)
haven't got a price yet, but most places around here are $75 to $100 per hour labour rate

I'm a block from Lake Erie myself so I feel your pain. Friday was 18C and today was 2C with a little snow thrown in to make it worthwhile. I work in my driveway so I need the sun. I've used a few mechanics over the years and the minimum is usually around $200 for anything and then $500-600 for more substantial stuff. That's when I started to do as much as possible myself.

[carsinsc]

I would recommend getting the manifold machined. Most of them are warped. They are also bad for pitting on the surface. Being a mechanic myself, I understand only wanting to do the job right the first time. If it leaks because it was warped, the customer is going to be ticked off and I will be doing it again for free + paying to get the manifold machined. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

[Legolas894]

Originally Posted by carsinsc

I would recommend getting the manifold machined. Most of them are warped. They are also bad for pitting on the surface. Being a mechanic myself, I understand only wanting to do the job right the first time. If it leaks because it was warped, the customer is going to be ticked off and I will be doing it again for free + paying to get the manifold machined. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

My mechanic always goes the extra mile and fixes right the first time. He is a little higher than the chains but I've never had to take anything back for a re-repair. On my '67, it would be pretty easy to take of the intake but on this '98, it looks a little intimidating. I only paid $2800 for it last year so $800 isn't all that bad if it gives me a few more years on it.

Thanks for the reply.

[bwood]

Make sure whether you do it yourself or pay someone, that they/you use the Fel-Pro MS9800T intake gasket set. They are the most current, updated version of the gaskets and the best part is they are not plastic like the failure prone OEMs. They are made of rubber over a steel core with built in torque limiters to prevent overtorquing damage.

[BigBlocksRule]

As long as the surfaces of the intake are in good shape, there should be no need for machining.
bwood, thanks for the gasket P/N, that's the one I've used without issue.

[Legolas894]

Originally Posted by bwood

Make sure whether you do it yourself or pay someone, that they/you use the Fel-Pro MS9800T intake gasket set. They are the most current, updated version of the gaskets and the best part is they are not plastic like the failure prone OEMs. They are made of rubber over a steel core with built in torque limiters to prevent overtorquing damage.

Thanks for this. He showed me a gasket and it looked like you describe.