My Questions about a rebuild

[70-Chevy]

WHAT I HAVE: 1969 Chevy, C-10, 1/2 ton, p/u, longbed, 6-lug, drum brakes.

WHAT I BOUGHT: I bought a 1971 shortbed rolling chassis, 5 lug, with stock front disc brakes.

1st Question: On my 69, I have 6-lug, deep dish, Mickey Thompson rally wheels that I love. The chassis I bought needs new caliper and rotors. Is it possible to take the 69's setup and put it on the front end of the '71 chassis and then order 6 lug calipers and rotors for the 71 chassis? I think I can but I dont know?

2nd Question: The shortbed chassis has a two-piece driveshaft. Is it hard and how much work does it take to put a one-piece in?

3rd Question: I put a brand new stainless steel brake line kit on the 69 a year ago. I know it will all transfer over to the 71 except for the long pieces that go from around the crossmember to the rear since the 69 is a longbed and the 71 is a shortbed. Is it possible the cut the brake lines shorter to make them work? What do I have to do to make this work?

4th Question: How much does a complete new wiring harness cost for one of these trucks? And what is the best one to go with?

5th Question: Is there a place that sells low profile hard tonneau covers?

6th Question:Is it hard to sink a fuel cell in between the framerails at the rear of these trucks?


Any pictures of previous work that I can check out would help me out alot. Thanks for all the help.

[lukecp]

1. You will also have to swap the rear axle so it will be 6-lug to. You might be able to have your rotors re-drilled for the 6-lug pattern. If it were my truck, i would sell your current wheels and look for a set in the 5 lug bolt pattern.

2. It is not very hard. On a SWB truck, the shaft is short enough to safley be balanced and ran. You need to contact a driveshaft shop and ask about getting a custom shaft built. They will ask for a measurement, and you will proably have to take your old shaft in so they can re-use the front yolk if needed. Then bolt in the new shaft and drive off.

3. You should be able to easily shorten the brake line with a cutter and flaring tool. I would cut the lines in the center where the line is straight, insall fittings on both sides of the cut, flare the lines, and install a fitting to re-attach the brake lines together. You can rent a flaring tool for free from just about any large auto parts store.

4. Painless makes a new wiring harness for around $400, but i have heard that it is not "painless" to install. I haven't used one, so i dunno for sure. You can get a new factory harness, go to the main section of the board (www.67-72chevytrucks.com) and go to the vendors under the parts suppliers links.

5. No clue on that....

6. You proably could, but a gas tank from a blazer/suburban is a direct bolt-in. Any of the parts suppliers should have a kit with the gas tank, sending unit, and straps. It would be easier than making brakets for the fuel cell, and the fuel cell might hang a bit lower than the blazer tank.

Good luck!

[70-Chevy]

Thanks for all the help and the replies.

[1967K10]

I have one of the Painless kits, but I havent started on it yet. I went with the painless because it is going to replace the old style round fuses with the new pushin in style and has plenty of expansion room for all of my power acessories.

If you go with the painless kit I found Summit to be just about the cheapest out there. Give them a call, I dont believe you can order it online.

It is going to be a lot of work, though.

[70-Chevy]

i figured it would take some work. but i do want the painless do to the good things ive heard. thanks