6.0/4L60E swap finally done

[Firebirdjones]

Lots of pics here with explanations of how I did things that people said couldn't be done.
I'll start from the beginning.

6.0 complete with truck style exhaust manifolds. Ready to drop in.

[Firebirdjones]

Fresh 4L60E with all the goodies inside to take some punishment
Advance Adapters supplied the output shaft and all the adapters to mate this to the original 205 transfer case.

[Firebirdjones]

Advance Adapters also supplied a new transfer case mount because I didn't want to machine on my original.

[Firebirdjones]

And here it is sitting in the Blazer.

[Firebirdjones]

Now for the engine.
I wanted to use all my factory gauges in the dash, here's how I did it.

I drilled the passenger side head to accept the factory temp sending unit. Here are some pics of the difference in size and the bit necessary for the pipe tap.

[Firebirdjones]

The oil pressure gauge was much simpler. I just drilled and tapped the cap off fitting right above the oil filter, and then ran the oil pressure line to it.

[Dunenutt]

Anxious to see how this turns out! This will be next, when my motor goes kaput.

[Firebirdjones]

Here is what I did for the vacuum on the power brakes. Thanks to a member here for the GM part number on that fitting. The counter people at GM had no clue what I wanted

[OldCreek]

Sweet!

(Welcome to the club!)

[Firebirdjones]

Now for the fun stuff.

Here is a shot of the cross member. With this, I was able to set the engine in, and use the deep sump truck oil pan without an issue. Clears the from differential with room to spare, and I didn't have to raise the suspension on the truck at all. Stock ride height.







Plenty of clearance for the engine oil pan.

[Firebirdjones]

Take a closer look at this shot and you'll see something else I used that was said couldn't be done.
That's a deep sump GM truck transmission pan on there. It clears the front driveshaft just fine. I can stick my entire hand between it and the corner of the pan. No issues here either.

[Firebirdjones]

To make life easier, I bought a "ready to go" wiring kit from Howell. I've used them in the past for other swaps so it was a no brainer for me.
They supplied a computer with a custom tune specifically for the application, as well as a new MAF, 02 sensors with bungs, and everything labled. Simple plug and play.



And now the engine is wired....



I also moved the battery to the driver side. I drilled the spot welds on the original battery tray, flipped the sides and rewelded. Then mounted it on the other side. This way I could use the factory 2004 truck style battery cables that came with the engine, along with the positive junction block you can see mounted on the side of the alternator. Great place for grabbing power for any future additions

[Firebirdjones]

The power steering lines are original style 72 blazer adapted to the 2004 power steering pump. I just removed the metric o-ring fitting on the pump and screwed in the fitting from my original pump. Worked like a champ.

[Firebirdjones]

Here is another view of the engine.
The 2004 truck radiator hoses also worked great top and bottom.

I tapped into the upper hose for the steam line for a couple of reasons. The biggest reason being water pump replacement down the road.
Most people like to drill and tap the top of the water pump,,,that works okay and definately looks cleaner.
My issue is what do ya do when the water pump goes out 1,000 miles from home. Drilling and tapping a new pump on the side of the road isn't exactly an option Besides,,,air bubbles escape better the higher up you make your steam line connection.

Just something to think about......

[Firebirdjones]

Something else to point out in this picture.

If anyone plans to try and use these truck manifolds, they take some fab work. If you look closely, on the passenger side you can see I had to notch the frame slightly to clear the manifold.
The driver side is the same way.

[Firebirdjones]

The bigger issue, is how the manifolds dump under the truck. They stop short inside the frame, so you have to get creative with the exhaust.
Nothing a few pieces of mandrel bent pipes and a welder can't fix.
After coming back out of the frame I connected it to the original system.

[Firebirdjones]

Another shot of the finished install.

I still need to source a high mount kit for the AC compressor, and run my air intake piping over to the passenger side, but for the most part, it's finished.

[matthew79]

Awesome!! Have you drove it yet? How's the power??

[68panelman]

That's sweeeet work man!!!. Hopefully I will do the same someday!

[NuBomb]

Like the others have said. If the 350 dies, I'm saving for that. I like the fact you can use the original gauges.

[K5 Addiction]

Super jealous! that's awesome work.

[Firebirdjones]

Thanks guys.
Haven't driven it yet. It should run stronger than the mild 355 I pulled out. I have a gear swap to do as well, but I may put that off for a while.
I might take it for a spin tomorrow. I'll let you all know.
I'll need to hook up the laptop and check over the tune before I really romp on it. Since it's a mail order, I'm sure it's going to need touched up here and there.

[BlazinC5]

Thats way cool, But, for those of us who may eventualy do a swap similar to this. Do you remember what the GM part # is for the vacum adapter piece? I also have an Idea for ya on your AC mount you may be able to use. It is a high mount, so frame isues wouldn't be a problem. But it is a little expensive and i don't know how the compatability would be with the current drive system ya have on their now. But its an Idea..

http://paceperformance.com/i-5146492...lternator.html

[Thealien]

Great job!! A couple of questions please. Whose crossmember is that? Any more pics of location and front dif clearance?

I can't believe you have a deep transmission pan with stock height. I have the same 5.3/4L60 and had to notch my stock pan? Looks great. Is your transfer case in the stock location?

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by BlazinC5

Thats way cool, But, for those of us who may eventualy do a swap similar to this. Do you remember what the GM part # is for the vacum adapter piece? I also have an Idea for ya on your AC mount you may be able to use. It is a high mount, so frame isues wouldn't be a problem. But it is a little expensive and i don't know how the compatability would be with the current drive system ya have on their now. But its an Idea..

http://paceperformance.com/i-5146492...lternator.html

Thanks, I'm open to any ideas on the AC mount. Gotta have that working again. I have the GM part number out in the shop, I'll grab that for you tomorrow. It's late here now and I just got in.