Have a good, budget/diy paint job?

[Root_Drum_Co]

I'm most likely going to end up doing the paint job on my truck myself for as cheap as i can.

I just want to know...can it be done and still look decent?

Pics and advice would be appreciated!


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[QKENUF4U]

RUSTOLEUM from walmart (thin it down a bit)

nice little gun to spray it from HARBOR FREIGHT (graivity feed)

good compressor

nice clean primered truck

spray away..

the bed on my 90 looks as good/better than the factory paint.....

it does scratch/chip easy but if your just using it as a driver its gonna get chipped/dinged/scratched no matter what ya do...

easy touch up with this paint and CHEAP.. (8$ a quart) and easy clean up....

[fastwillie 696969]

i leave it to the pros when it comes to painting ,sometimes its cheaper to pay the pros than to diy in the long run thats just me

[screamin_c10]

I did mine.... Harbor Freight gear and an old shed. I think she came out lookin good, cheap single stage paint is starting to show its age though.

The pics below are 5 years after the paint job, and she needed to be buffed out.

[Hubscrub]

Nothing wrong with doing it yourself you don't have to spend big dollars to get good results. i plan to do mine on my own too i went just the other day and talked to my local auto paint supply getting some ideas on products etc. I'm getting away from wanting super nice paint etc. just not worth the hassle anymore.

[Root_Drum_Co]

Thanks for the advice so far! here's the plan and setup...

The plan is to buy a gallon of hunter green rustoleum and mix in some black little by little till i reach my desired color. Then, I'll thin it down with mineral spirits (i think thats right) and spray it on, then wetsand and wetsand and buff until my head explodes. maybe it'll turn out ok?? (for a 20 footer at least )

gear-
10 gal. air compressor
2 Devilbiss gravity feed guns (one for color, one for clear)
Smaller Kobalt gravity feed gun for door jambs etc.
sanding blocks
orbital buffer and buffing compounds

Should i put a clear over my rustoleum? If so, is there an alternative to expensive automotive clear?

thanks!


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[Root_Drum_Co]

Here's my dads 74 Triumph TR6 we painted in his old barn. We built a nice DIY paint booth that you can roll up into the ceiling when you're not using it complete with lights and filtered fans...high tech redneck stuff u know.

The only problem is MY TRUCK WONT FIT IN THE BARN'S DOOR!!! We're thinking about cutting a bigger hole in the wall on the other end of the barn.

He spent alot more on his fancy Dupont paint than i'm budgeted for but, here's some pics of it.

[ETsC10]

Here's my thoughts on Rust-Oleum and it's use...

Garden variety Rust-Oleum Enamel is an oil based paint and will chalk/fade with time.
(They may or may not have a clear coat now to stop that degradation).
I spent a few years using it as a base coat for exterior signs and finally moved on,
when I found I was having base coat failures.
We also used to use it on the Hobby Stock and Demo cars…sprayed thick (with
an old Wagner Power Painter!) and it was way glossy after it’s full day or two of drying.
Covered up absolutely everything and stuck to anything.
Rust-Oleum Enamel stays soft a LONG time and does has a recoat window.
Don’t chance going outside that window or your paint may pickle.
Use a GOOD respirator…you’ll be blowin’ very sticky paint-snot for a week!

I’ve also brushed it by mixing in a little kerosene as a flow improver.
Work sometimes, sometimes not. Just keep working it until it stops sagging.

Rust-Oleum Auto paints; I do believe, are an Acrylic Lacquer and require a Clear Coat.
Durable, don’t chalk, needs the labor of any car paint. No recoat window. (?)
Probably are more UV tolerant. And probably not as cheap as other auto paints, in the long run.

They have a ton of other products too and may have other stuff more appropriate
than the things I am familiar with but, again, the paints may be pricing into the automotive realm.

That’s all I know and I’m stuck with it!

[Root_Drum_Co]

Thanks ETsC10 for the advice. yeah i was planning on using the regular oil based rustoleum like you were talking about. i know it's going to take alot more work to make it look good and keep it looking good. Hopefully by the time this paint starts failing i'll have a little more money, and i won't mind painting it again with the good stuff painting's one of my favorite parts to be honest. This is going to be an experiment i think now. An experiment to see how good i can make my truck look for 75 bucks and to see how long it will last.

p.s. i'm trying to do the entire truck on a $1500 budget, $400 for the truck, about $300 in parts so far...i dunno, we'll see if i can do it haha
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[ItsRandy]

Originally Posted by screamin_c10

I did mine.... Harbor Freight gear and an old shed. I think she came out lookin good, cheap single stage paint is starting to show its age though.

The pics below are 5 years after the paint job, and she needed to be buffed out.

Wow! I am painting my own truck in my garage...I hope mine comes out as nice.

[Root_Drum_Co]

agreed, Screamin_c10's truck should make everyone want to try it! haha

[BigDan3131]

So...your going to paint it now with rusto and paint it again later on with real automotive grade paint. Just paint it with decent paint now, if you don't you will have to strip it to steel for real paint and primer.

Summit factory pak:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-CSUMUP316/

Summit primer:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-UP220/

Add a quart of hardener and a quart of reducer for another 30 bucks your total is just under 200 without tax.

Just spend the extra money now redoing stuff is a waste of time and money.

[rustyrodknocker]

if you use the rustoleum you will want to thin it with acetone. it will take days to cure with mineral spirits . by then it will be full of dirt and bugs. i have nothing again the rustoleum ive done some without any chipping issues. [i would love to get the overspray off my motorcycle wheel] mainly satin black. but it is 30- 40 dollars a gallon and you can get single stage enamels on ebay for as low as 50-60 bucks probably worth the 25 bucks. that being said ill still use the rustoleum here and there. interiors and such . no waiting. 5 minutes to home depot. some of the guys in 60-66 have some great looking results.

[BMERDOC]

Just to show how cheap you can go...I don't think I have $75 in materials to get from this to that! Not perfect by any means but shows what you can do with a rattle can, time, elbow grease and desire.

[sleepingbag]

Originally Posted by Root_Drum_Co

Thanks ETsC10 for the advice. yeah i was planning on using the regular oil based rustoleum like you were talking about. i know it's going to take alot more work to make it look good and keep it looking good. Hopefully by the time this paint starts failing i'll have a little more money, and i won't mind painting it again with the good stuff painting's one of my favorite parts to be honest. This is going to be an experiment i think now. An experiment to see how good i can make my truck look for 75 bucks and to see how long it will last.

p.s. i'm trying to do the entire truck on a $1500 budget, $400 for the truck, about $300 in parts so far...i dunno, we'll see if i can do it haha
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My budget build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=474801

Man, it can be done, and if you take your time it can look really good! Some guys dont understand the more time then money approach...but post pictures as you go and you'll see how many guys are jazzed to see a lowbuck approach to making our trucks look better! Take pics and have fun!

[Root_Drum_Co]

I hear ya BigDan, u make a good point. it seems like a waste of time to do it all over again one day... the right way, but i may never even get to that if it turns out good and i can take care of it. I just want to do this really to see what me and the 75 bucks in my wallet can do! If it turns out bad we'll call it a learning experience and move on. thanks for the advice, i honestly do appreciate it.

And @Sleepingbag, I'll deffinitely put up plenty of pics. I hope it'll be something worth showing off! haha. I'll try to have a ton of pics of the whole process either way, i'll just have to remember to stop and take a few. usually i get to excited with what i'm doing and before i know it i'm done and i have 0 pics to remember it by. maybe i can talk my girlfriend into being the resident photographer for the time being

@Rustyrodknocker, thanks for the tip about the acetone. Deffinitely glad you told me that, I would'a been sandin bugs out for days it sounds like.

@bmerdoc, looks good man! u didn't sell that truck to someone in GA did u? b/c i swear i saw it in athens about 3 weeks ago, same wheels and all. like the two tone for sure tho thanks for sharing!



Thanks again for everyone's adice!

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[BMERDOC]

Nope, didn't sell it. This is the last stop for this truck for a very long time. Thanks for the props, still needs work. Anybody knocks you for doing a cheapie paint job look at my "before " pics. I couldn't care less about sanding on any part of my new paint job to fix what underneath but it oes look better for now!

[junkmen]

RustOleum make auto paints go to there web sight but they only have five colors also duplicolor paint shop is about the same thing but they have more colors they have green
these paint are ready to spray they are clear coat base coat system they cost about $20.00 qrt I would use there prime then BC & CC
or look on line for ( low cost or discount auto paints) #1 autopantonline.com
#2 trinity 1945 wwwpaintforcars.com
now if you use these auto paints and in time you want a pro to repaint it will be no problem

note clean and sand it real good before priming it

good luck JM

[dicer]

The high performance rustoleum is an alkyd enamel. Its better than some of the paints auto manufactures used to use. An alkyd enamel will "cure" that is cross link just like what happens in a hardner paint. It just takes it a while to do it. I have an example of rustoleum that hardened real nice. If you are worrying about fading get a UV protectant added to the paint. The day is comming when all our paint will be legislated out of existance for you and I, all better wake up about this now, and make sure that day does not come. When that day comes you will be praying that you had some non auto paint like rustoleum. Well I guess the patina folks will be happy. Though in time rust and corrosion will make your truck disapear.

[sleepingbag]

Ive used a 80 paint (rustoleum)/20 mineral spirits ratio and had real good results, shot well through the gun and flashed within a few minutes of shooting..but im in Florida and its always pretty hot...

[sleepingbag]

Rustoleum Part #7777, less then 130 dollars, including the gun, compressor and paint, all in.. when they see it in person no one believes its rustoleum...

[willys72fleetside]

I painted my 1950 6400 with Tractor paint from Tractor Supply used actone to thin and hardner for durability. It was about $30 a gallon plus hardner. My 72 C/10 is gooing BC/CC from TCP Global.

[H8PVMNT]

I used VanSickle tractor paint with the recommended thinner and the hardener on a 4runner last year and it turned out great. The best part was that it was in stock off the shelf paint and it was only $26 per gallon. If I smash a bedside on a rock and want to fix it the paint is allready there on the shelf.

I did a bit of wet sanding and a good buff out after it was cured and it looks better than alot of guys who have spent way more at a body shop!

I used some eurethane on a car ordered from napa a couple years ago and had to order a little extra to finish and the second batch didn't match the first. The tractor paint was about $300 cheaper and layed down and turned out much better. I called the manufacturer and talked long and hard about the durability of the paint and according top them as long as you use the hardener it is every bit as good as what you would usually call "automotive paint". So far it's had over a year in the sun, rain and long Montana winters and it's looking just great. Extremely scratch resistant too, which was a nice suprise.